40/40 vision yo.If you can see an RC car almost a mile away next time I lose my car keys I’m calling you.
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40/40 vision yo.If you can see an RC car almost a mile away next time I lose my car keys I’m calling you.
The radio uses a volatge regulator that steps down the battery's voltage for the Main bus. (PCB) Using more volts won't give you more range. And the voltage regulator will get hotter if stepping down higher voltage. Battery Capacity ( Mah) is most important IMHO.That was probably a full run. I doubt it gets 5000ft range one way. I tested mine before I boosted it and got over 1700ft way from me. At that point I couldn’t even tell which way it was headed or if it was even still moving. But I had a buddy down the road with a radio and he said it was still going and turning back and forth.
At some point having super long range is useless unless you are using a digital FPV set for driving.40/40 vision yo.
I boosted it with a range booster. I did nothing to boost the voltage to the PCB.The radio uses a volatge regulator that steps down the battery's voltage for the Main bus. (PCB) Using more volts won't give you more range. And the voltage regulator will get hotter if stepping down higher voltage. Battery Capacity ( Mah) is most important IMHO.
Wasn't thinking. But yeah it is definitely hard to see AFTER about 1,200 feet. Doesn't help that the body is the same color as the center lines. But I agree that I made a mistake it was more than likely that it was covered both ways.The radio uses a volatge regulator that steps down the battery's voltage for the Main bus. (PCB) Using more volts won't give you more range. And the voltage regulator will get hotter if stepping down higher voltage. Battery Capacity ( Mah) is most important IMHO.
At some point having super long range is useless unless you are using a digital FPV set for driving.
You simply can't see the rig at some point.
Even if you stand in the middle of a 5,000 ft distance, point to point, can you see your rig with the naked eye 2,500ft in both directions?
I am far sighted well enough and struggle with that one on a clear sunny day at High Noon. No shadows.
The booster also has a voltage regulator. Doesn't it? There is always a regulator for any devices PCB.I boosted it with a range booster. I did nothing to boost the voltage to the PCB.
Specs on the booster are something like 6-16v or something. I don’t remember off hand and I’m at work. It can get a little warm but then again so does everything in the FL Sun.The booster also has a voltage regulator. Doesn't it? There is always a regulator for any devices PCB.
What are the Booster's power specs? Ive heard the booster can get hot also??
I was trying to find a YouTube vid so I could post a link, but long story short a Tuber got pretty decent range with running a LiPo in the radio at max volts and powering the receiver to 8.4 volts with 2 antennas on the RX. Said it made a very measurable difference in range, I don’t recall telemetry being discussed, but let’s be honest… Who is reading telemetry on a speed run car 1500+ feet away when you turn around to make a pass while spotting your car with binoculars? If your motor or ESC is cooking at that point no amount of information is going to save it. Telemetry is much more important in bashers and racers, and neither of those should go out of range in those environments with any decent SBUS2 or other (Spektrum) system.Does anyone know if transmitter voltage will affect range? ie, 4PM runs off of 3AA bats and if I change to a LiFe it'll be 6.6V
Will that affect range??
agree with the temperature telemetry. However, the range telemetry is dropping out too. ie, at 50 yards the 4PM says that the radio signal strength is lost which makes that sensor completely unreliable.I was trying to find a YouTube vid so I could post a link, but long story short a Tuber got pretty decent range with running a LiPo in the radio at max volts and powering the receiver to 8.4 volts with 2 antennas on the RX. Said it made a very measurable difference in range, I don’t recall telemetry being discussed, but let’s be honest… Who is reading telemetry on a speed run car 1500+ feet away when you turn around to make a pass while spotting your car with binoculars? If your motor or ESC is cooking at that point no amount of information is going to save it. Telemetry is much more important in bashers and racers, and neither of those should go out of range in those environments with any decent SBUS2 or other (Spektrum) system.
I’m going to say this is one of those very rare cases where cheap can be a real bargain for what you require. Cause my cheap-assed RC6S V2 is going to spank a much nicer Futaba 4PM with enough money left over to buy a couple extra sets of tires and dinner for the wife. Depending on the wife… Mine digs herself some Mickey-D’s, but your results may vary.
I’m not familiar with “range telemetry.” Have you tried to do a range test while just disregarding whatever your display said about the range? Bearing in mind that you’re dealing with two different signals here, the one with telemetry being markedly less range friendly. What good does it do to monitor your range on a signal that can be lost hundreds of feet less than the actual range of the radio? If it is really on the telemetry band of your radio. Ignore it and test what you actually have for real transmitter/radio range. Bring a Friend with a cell phone and a pair of binoculars. See what you’re actually getting for response within a given distance. You might be surprised.agree with the temperature telemetry. However, the range telemetry is dropping out too. ie, at 50 yards the 4PM says that the radio signal strength is lost which makes that sensor completely unreliable.
Put some lights on your car. They help immensely with orientation at distance, even in daylight. Provided they're bright of course. My front/rear lights you can probably see at a half mile easily.Wasn't thinking. But yeah it is definitely hard to see AFTER about 1,200 feet. Doesn't help that the body is the same color as the center lines. But I agree that I made a mistake it was more than likely that it was covered both ways.
I thought about it with the limitless body.Put some lights on your car. They help immensely with orientation at distance, even in daylight. Provided they're bright of course. My front/rear lights you can probably see at a half mile easily.
The Polo Creations lights for it are pretty sweet. The full kit is probably a little overkill, but the nice thing is you can pick and choose which components you want.I thought about it with the limitless body.
Plus, it’s rechargeable?!? Look Ma, no wires! In my cart. Boom. Thanks for the tip!The Polo Creations lights for it are pretty sweet. The full kit is probably a little overkill, but the nice thing is you can pick and choose which components you want.
For a tail light that you can just screw into your diffusor, I think this one is tough to beat. It is fantastically bright. I just removed the mounting clip from inside the rubber strap and screwed it to the bottom of my diffusor. I had to make two small notches into the two veins in the diffusor so that it would click into place better, but this thing is just amazing. I can take pictures of how I installed mine if you like.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evo-NiteBright-100-Bicycle-Taillight-JY-6085T/715297014
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Edit: It should have been called Evil NiteBright 100...
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Sho tang bro!! I think you'll dig it. It's bright as all get out.Plus, it’s rechargeable?!? Look Ma, no wires! In my cart. Boom. Thanks for the tip!
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