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Nope, diffs gave out way before I could break anything else. The bulkheads & towers are actually reinforced. The wing mount is also unbreakable. I bent the towers more than anything before wrecking the diffs. I can bend the arms into a U with enough force. There's no breaking that.The reason your arms never break are because the towers and bulkheads are designed so horribly that they break (which gives) before the a arm can get stressed lol.
Yes he is ?You telling me to quit crying?
Remember the rule: on most occasions, if you don’t screw up, nothing breaksSo I went to hobby town and the guy unboxed a new radio and installed it. After that it worked great! They were very helpful there! I’m super happy with the handling and controls now! Tomorrow I’ll be testing it out on my ramp. I hope it holds up. I’ve seen 2 dinky jumps break arms on YouTube, but on the other hand I’ve seen some people really letting them fly with no breakages.
The best arms on any car I have are the Basher Sabertooth with the JLB Cheetah being a distant 2nd. You can trash the thing to hell & back & never break an arm. The shocks towers are pathetic & the diffs are playdough but the arms will take everything you can dish out. They aren't overly flexible either. The JLB arms are made from the same material but are too thin & will twist. You can actually twist them (ON THE CAR) so that the lower arm is on top & vice versa. That's nuts. Unfortunately, if all cars had the Basher & JLB arm material, it would either need to be super thick like the Basher or have the same problems as the JLB. They won't break though. Meaning that it would have companies losing tons of $$$ on replacement arms, or they would have other obvious failure parts to make up for it.
A member here made arms out of #6 10mm nylon, something I did back in the 90s. It's not an option for everyone but it is a solution until RPM comes through. I really wanted to convert my Senton & Granite to the 4s counterparts but I'm not touching that until we get some decent driveshafts & arms.
I run 20/30 mod 1.5 gears on one of my X-Maxx's - the super cheap eBay stuff. Both gears were $14. With the China spiral gears, the thing sounds like a beast that will eat anything in its path. I just got an unbreakable body for it. I didn't buy my mt410 until winter when I had plenty of downtime. I do RC in the snow but I don't feel like I'm wasting time building a kit then. It would feel like torture now
“Update “
I went to hobby town and they swapped out the radio and calibrated it and it works great now!!!!!! I’ll elatmore when I get time.
After listening to all the Arrma fanboys on YouTube I got a Kraton 4S recently. I was on the fence about returning it and getting the 6s but I didn’t want to deal with the chassis bending situation (ARRMA tough indeed). Now I understand that the A arms are crap on this version (ARRMA tough, give me a break) and not available??. I had seen on YouTube where people are reporting a bit of delay with the new spectrum radio, but I had high hopes that it would be a minor issue. I was excited to run it for the first time but that quickly turned into frustration. I thought the acceleration was weak on 4s so I turned up the punch level and it seems pretty good. I’m getting wheel spin instead of wheelies probably because of a slightly damp surface and stock tires that don’t grip well (my E Revo 2.0 has no problem in the same conditions). Next I noticed that it took about 15 ft to stop so I turned up the brake level through the esc settings, which brought it down to about 5ish ft (compared to my E revo violently stopping on a dime, that’s a joke). Then I was coasting it down to stop and the thing took off on it’s own and ran into a gravel pile (throttle trigger in neutral). And as nice cherry on top, it won’t reverse when I want it to. It will however reverse when IT wants to. I hold reverse.... nothing, reverse..... nothing, reverse...... nothing. Let go of trigger (neutral) and it took off full throttle backwards out of my driveway up a hill into my neighbor’s driveway barely missing their car before I finally was able to get it under control. And that hasn’t been a one time situation. Reverse only engages about 1out of 20 trigger pulls then out of the blue it’ll take off and just keep going (sometimes slowly, and sometimes wide open)until you squeeze the forward trigger. Please don’t tell me I need to get an aftermarket radio! That is unacceptable! It’s not asking to much for it to come with a radio that functions properly and doesn’t have a mind of its own. I really want this thing to work but I’m going to have to return it, which stinks because it was a Father’s Day gift.
This information all seems correct until you own one lol. You guys are failing to understand that these trucks can’t take the landings that an ecx torment can take... and that’s a 10th scale short course truck. A $160, 10th scale short course truck. Don’t make me bring the slash 4x4 into this either! And that’s also a 10th scale SCT. From what I hear the granite is also more durable. Much more durable. For the short period I had a granite it didn’t break until I really sent it and really screwed up. I get it that you’ll draw this to a symptom of me being inexperienced, and that can very well be the case, but man, this thing’s going on eBay.I followed this post till it petered out. Or so it appears.
1. Arrma 4 s rigs are simply not the 6s rigs.
They are differently designed 1/10 and 1/8 scale monsters each with their own quirks if you will. Please don't compare one to the other. The pricepoint of each dictates what you have.
2. The 4s series are not mature yet. Too knew. OE Parts train and aftermarket support hasn't matured either. Frustrating for any Brands new intros.
3. 4s 1/10 scale rigs are predominantly plastic because of the power to weight ratio and the speed that Arrma spec'ed.
Most other brand 1/10 rigs are plastic chassis based for the reasons stated above.
4. The Tactic 3 ch. Radios of the Arrma/Hobbico days are gone. That was a great dependable budget radio with respectable latency specs. Having dependable binds and calibs. The Stx 2 ch radio is pure garbage. It feels disconnectedwith input and response Yes.. I personally feel the problem lies with both the radio and the reciever. The fhss protocol is obsolete for long range high speed driving. Horizon had exclusive control over that. Not the rig designers at Arrma per se. Spektrum makes great radios, with DSMR protocol and as low as 6ms response specs. Expert level driving requires this. Flawless control. Just not the StX2 thats using obsolete tech. But you have to pay extra for a better radio of any brand that floats your boat budget wise.
5.Kevin Talbot bases his vids on carnage.
Some may cringe at that but it is entertaining and draws him profit. He needs to break rigs. That's his shtick.
Rich Duperbash is much more elegant in his driving and much more entertaining.
But, he breaks his rigs too.He doesn't complain. All rc rigs break. Just be prepared to buy parts that are "in the train" and quickly available. Don't complain about it. I noticed that the inexperienced are always the first to complain. I feel that RC bashing is a lifestyle. And to some degree we choose our lifestyle.
Fab one. ??The slipper is crap. I have had issues with it my self. I really wish they would make a center diff fit the 3s and 4s line
I don't have the Granite, but I do have a BRCC and I will say that it has been exceptionally durable. I have yet to break a driveshaft and I've hit curbs, trees and other stationary objects hard enough to disconnect the battery on several occasions. Other than upgrading parts because I wanted to I really haven't had to do too much to it.The 3s line has one issue that can't be fixed: the wheel driveshafts. The arms can be fixed with an inexpensive set of RPM's. There isn't a Traxxas truck that's in the price range that's as good. If they ever release the metal driveshafts you will have the king of $300 3s trucks. It's probably still king anyway. And if you really messed a Granite up it must have been a colossal event of piss poor driving ?
My problems might stem from my slipper tightness. I've loosed it up and we'll see how the driveshafts hold up.I don't have the Granite, but I do have a BRCC and I will say that it has been exceptionally durable. I have yet to break a driveshaft and I've hit curbs, trees and other stationary objects hard enough to disconnect the battery on several occasions. Other than upgrading parts because I wanted to I really haven't had to do too much to it.
Reread my post. Wasn’t calling a Traxxas better than a granite and wasn’t calling the granite weak. I also wasn’t saying or even hinting at Traxxas making a better truck in the price range. I don’t feel like quoting myself because you can easily find it, but here’s one paraphrased: “I didn’t break my granite until I really sent it and really screwed up.”The 3s line has one issue that can't be fixed: the wheel driveshafts. The arms can be fixed with an inexpensive set of RPM's. There isn't a Traxxas truck that's in the price range that's as good. If they ever release the metal driveshafts you will have the king of $300 3s trucks. It's probably still king anyway. And if you really messed a Granite up it must have been a colossal event of piss poor driving ?
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