Kraton Kraton 8s out drive pins just keep breaking changed to m2c and still breaking them

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Hassan77

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Hello guys I am really getting frustrated since I changed 3 sets of outdrives my kraton has 800 kv castle and mamba xlx 2 running 39/34 any solution for this problem because nothing has worked changed fluid to 2 mil and ear plugs still ripping them like nothing ran the m2c best one and killed it first run

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@Moirae mentioned the GPM Arrma 8S Driveshafts are good and strong.
 
Order some S7 or A2 tool steel pins and cut them to length, much tougher alloy than off-the-shelf rod.
 
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Wow that’s crazy, I must’ve lucked out with my rig…..running 39:39 on xlx2 1100 kv and I’ve yet to break any of those pins….maybe people are bashing harder with theirs but shoots I don’t baby my rig either 🤔🤷🏾‍♂️
 
I’m not bashing hard at all baby my rig and it breaks first run since I changed to 800 kv 3 sets of out drives evertime first run 5 min in broken too much torque I don’t know
 
I’m not bashing hard at all baby my rig and it breaks first run since I changed to 800 kv 3 sets of out drives evertime first run 5 min in broken too much torque I don’t know
What do you have your diff oils at? Possibly tune the rig down a bit
 
These are the ones I got a and broke just now


Mil front 2 mil back with ear plugs


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This is really important and it will keep happening until you address the droop or shock travel. Personally I put nylon washers on my rear shock shafts to limit travel and have never had it happen again. Not even on my 12s kraton.


I use these but you can use whatever works.

https://a.co/d/dmyexft
 
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This is really important and it will keep happening until you address the droop or shock travel. Personally I put nylon washers on my rear shock shafts to limit travel and have never had it happen again. Not even on my 12s kraton.


I use these but you can use whatever works.

https://a.co/d/dmyexft
I have m2c shock pistons that I’m gonna install would it work the same
 
Do you typically just add washers inside the shock or on the outside as well to reduce max compression? Recall how much spacing?
I only added maybe 7 to 9 to the outside and have never had a problem since.
 
I only added maybe 7 to 9 to the outside and have never had a problem since.
Very nice! So that just reduces max compression on a landing right?

Rely on the droop screws for the max extension? I have wanted to try washers/tubing on the internal of the 8S shocks as well to see how that fares (instead of using droop screws). I tried that on a 3S rig and it worked well, basically it was slightly over extending causing the drive shafts to shred. Just used a little nitro fuel tubing. (y)
 
Very nice! So that just reduces max compression on a landing right?

Rely on the droop screws for the max extension? I have wanted to try washers/tubing on the internal of the 8S shocks as well to see how that fares (instead of using droop screws). I tried that on a 3S rig and it worked well, basically it was slightly over extending causing the drive shafts to shred. Just used a little nitro fuel tubing. (y)

Yea on landing, also when you do wheelies. I've snapped a few dog bones on outdrive side from doing wheelies. I never worried about max extension tbh so i don't have anything for it. Thankfully it seems like I haven't needed it.
 
Yea on landing, also when you do wheelies. I've snapped a few dog bones on outdrive side from doing wheelies. I never worried about max extension tbh so i don't have anything for it. Thankfully it seems like I haven't needed it.
Glad you clarified this, I was under the assumption you were putting them on the inside to limit extension. I did same thing on my Xmaxx, except I used fuel injector o-rings from a real car (I'm a 1:1 mechanic so I had them laying around lol). I would normally think the M2C droop screws would be enough to limit extension, but I'm not so sure on the 8s stuff, it's alot bigger and heavier than the 6s rigs, and I could see the potential for the little ear on the chassis where the droop screws come in contact with bending, or the control arm flexing so much that it negates the droop screw from doing its job.. I think I'm going to try 6mm stainless washers on the inside to limit extension, and my injector o-ring idea with a steel washer on either side on the outside to limit compression, and see how that treats me
 
Sorry to sidetrack from 8s but wondering if washers or o-rings on the shock shaft outside keep 6s rig dogbones from popping out? I removed the spacer between the top front arm and pivot ball, but if limiting shock compression works just as good I'd prefer being able to use the spacers to adjust camber.
 
Hey, do you mind posting a pic of what those look like installed....for dummies (me)? I managed to break one of the rear shafts I got from Vitavon - so tired of this happening. Thanks
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Sorry to sidetrack from 8s but wondering if washers or o-rings on the shock shaft outside keep 6s rig dogbones from popping out? I removed the spacer between the top front arm and pivot ball, but if limiting shock compression works just as good I'd prefer being able to use the spacers to adjust camber.
yup! that was the original reason I bought the washers. Was a benefit they came with so many different sizes and worked on 8s rigs too haha.
 
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yup! that was the original reason I bought the washers. Was a benefit they came with so many different sizes and worked on 8s rigs too haha.
Awesome, thanks a million. 👍👍 Going to replicate this myself.
I think this is a necessary mod - but I don't understand why..lol. Isn't shock compression already limited by chassis slamming the ground?
 
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