Kraton diff gears breaking. Help!

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Well my luck ran out. I have blown up all 3 diffs in 1 pack. Every ring and pinion as well. The new max 6 and 1650kv motor at max punch is too much. I am thinking it was just over geared with the 23t pinion. I changed out to a 16 after first diff but I think the damage was already done. As everything else went out shortly after.
 
Im running the max 6 combo as well on stock punch 100f/200c/60r. I don't jump and don't go full throttle from a stop and have np at all with any of my diffs. Have never even broken a diff on the kraton. But yeah I hear the problems of just looking at them breaks lol. Is it just way people drive there trucks?. I don't go easy on mine either. Stuff that Lovestricken 3 diffs on one pack.
 
Im running the max 6 combo as well on stock punch 100f/200c/60r. I don't jump and don't go full throttle from a stop and have np at all with any of my diffs. Have never even broken a diff on the kraton. But yeah I hear the problems of just looking at them breaks lol. Is it just way people drive there trucks?. I don't go easy on mine either. Stuff that Lovestricken 3 diffs on one pack.
Probs that 200 center weight saving you. Many people don’t understand that thicker center diff fluid exponentially hurts drivetrain components. When you nail the gas with thin center diff fluid, the power goes to the place with least resistance. This means the front. All it does is spin the tires. If you put super thick fluid in there and gun it, the power will be split evenly from front to rear... the rear will grip, the tires will bite, and you have 3-4 horsepower going right through the rear differential and bleeding out absolutely nowhere... with a weak differential design, it’ll kill it with no issue. That’s crazy torque not being bled out.
 
Probs that 200 center weight saving you. Many people don’t understand that thicker center diff fluid exponentially hurts drivetrain components. When you nail the gas with thin center diff fluid, the power goes to the place with least resistance. This means the front. All it does is spin the tires. If you put super thick fluid in there and gun it, the power will be split evenly from front to rear... the rear will grip, the tires will bite, and you have 3-4 horsepower going right through the rear differential and bleeding out absolutely nowhere... with a weak differential design, it’ll kill it with no issue. That’s crazy torque not being bled out.
Exactly. Blowing diffs for increased traction is the trade off here... plus the max 6 on max punch is more torque then any 1/8 can put down safely. No jumps and no full throttle and my diffs would last as well...
 
Probs that 200 center weight saving you. Many people don’t understand that thicker center diff fluid exponentially hurts drivetrain components. When you nail the gas with thin center diff fluid, the power goes to the place with least resistance. This means the front. All it does is spin the tires. If you put super thick fluid in there and gun it, the power will be split evenly from front to rear... the rear will grip, the tires will bite, and you have 3-4 horsepower going right through the rear differential and bleeding out absolutely nowhere... with a weak differential design, it’ll kill it with no issue. That’s crazy torque not being bled out.
I run 1 mil in the center of my Kraton with a Max6 and a Hobbystar 4092 1730 kv motor. Zero issues with the diffs. None. Nada. Zip. There should be no problem running 500k or a mil with stock electronics unless you don't know how to drive and constantly land under throttle.
 
I gotta say I think I got a bad batch of drive cup pins lol. The ones under the sun gear... I sheard another one today.. went back out and figured I would stay on the ground and work on my wheelies... snapped another one... anyone try a hardened pin? Like a drill end? I have no clue why I am going through so many...
Good thing I have 3 back up diffs to just swap out lol
 
I gotta say I think I got a bad batch of drive cup pins lol. The ones under the sun gear... I sheard another one today.. went back out and figured I would stay on the ground and work on my wheelies... snapped another one... anyone try a hardened pin? Like a drill end? I have no clue why I am going through so many...
Good thing I have 3 back up diffs to just swap out lol
I'm going to buy extra diffs and build them to have spars and tuning options ?
 
I run 1 mil in the center of my Kraton with a Max6 and a Hobbystar 4092 1730 kv motor. Zero issues with the diffs. None. Nada. Zip. There should be no problem running 500k or a mil with stock electronics unless you don't know how to drive and constantly land under throttle.
I was just about to say, you’re very good at driving, so no wonder you don’t run into issues. For people who are bad at driving, it’ll matter :)
 
Yup like me lmao ... i will jump just about anything. Ramps, ditches, creeks, crubs " by accident", even small pets if they get in my way...SEND IT!!!!
 
Maybe you aren’t lucky after all?
I don't think it has anything to do with luck. First I think people over shim their internal gears which leads to the broken gears and pins. I stopped shimming the insides long ago. Second, I think people don't realize if they have a lose gear box cover or a damaged gearbox which will allow the pinion and ring gear to slip and chip teeth. And third I think that driver error is a big component. I damaged two or three diffs and it was all in the first 4 months of ownership. Since then I've upped the power and haven't had a single diff issue. I bash my trucks as hard as the next guy. I don't land under power, I don't do standing backflips and I don't self right. If you want to sell the idea that the 6s diffs are made of glass, be my guest. I'm just relaying my experience with my trucks.
 
Small update.... don't use a drill as a pin in these diffs. Things went great until I did a wheelie around 40 mph and hit the brakes when she started to dance on 2 wheels... she is now a drifter lmao one of the front sun gears broke in half... I would have preferred breaking another pin....
@bicketybam I will be the first to say it is all me lol.
 
Small update.... don't use a drill as a pin in these diffs. Things went great until I did a wheelie around 40 mph and hit the brakes when she started to dance on 2 wheels... she is now a drifter lmao one of the front sun gears broke in half... I would have preferred breaking another pin....
@bicketybam I will be the first to say it is all me lol.
How do you have it shimmed? Where did you add shims in the inside?
 
How do you have it shimmed? Where did you add shims in the inside?
Didn't add any... everything is stock . It was actually just swapped in today from a Jenny's rc diff and bulk head assembly. I swapped to 60,000 at and changed the pins in it. Other then that was brand new. Has been 6 pins in last week or so in all diffs. All bearings are free and clean. Everything is tight. Running 60, 1 million, 60 for oils. Currently. Also second sun I have split in 2 weeks. Both times I wasn't even in the air at the time. Has been too cold to really jump here in Michigan.
 
So I think I figured out my issue of the rear diff breaking pins every pack or two... actually 2 things I found...
1st I had a broken wing mount screw that goes into the rear bulk.. screw was still there but only because it was bent and snapped 1/4 in past the head which allowed the bulk to twist pretty good if you put enough force on it.....

2nd I tore the diff down yesterday because guess what...yup broke another one..... upon examining everything I dry fit the diff back together looking for something not right... right off the bat I held the sun gear with my thumb and there was tons of movement between the output cup and sun gear... the hole the pin goes in has become oversized... that would easily cause a pin to shear.... I will test it today and see how it goes.
 
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