Kraton Kraton getting rebuilt....Suggestions welcome.

[Jerry-rigged]

OK, so I was able to get the rear diff shimmed and all the rear diff and rear hub bearings swapped out. I did not reinstall the rear end, as I still have to do the center differential. I did make a mistake when I did the front end. I used 80K fluid, when I meant to use 100k. I was supposed to use the 80k on the rear and the thicker upfront, so I would not loose as much power thru the wildly spinning front wheels.

You are not thinking about this right. The front diff and rear diff have no bearing on how the power is split between the front and rear. This power split is done in the center diff.

You did say in the OP that you were planning on using 500k in the enter diff - that will calm down the ballooning front tires a lot.

From the hudy set up guide - written for racers, but still applies to us bashers.

 

[dpricenator]

OK, right on , that you for the information. I did a bunch of reading and figured I may have made a mistake somewhere.

 

[Vanning]

500k is insanely thick. 200k is thick enough in my opinion. 200k won't even poor out of the bottle. Team Associated brand.

 

[dpricenator]

OK, So I have Team Asscoiated 80k in the front, and team ass 40k (mix of 80k and 35wt shock fluid) in the rear. Do you think 100k in the middle will be good? I could mix the 100k and the 500k to get a 200k

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I am using 125k in the CD on my Kraton and Typhon, 4s only. I get a bit of ballooning, but much much less than when I was running 10k. Both cars try to wheelie, but often don't get all the way up. I am happy with my 125k, but if I ran 6s much, I would go with 200k or 500k. My F/R are 10k in kraton, 5k in typhon.

 

[jonUF02]

I put 100K center and 50K F+R (Traxxas fluids). The 100K is like molasses, so I can't even imagine 500K. It would be basically silly putty. I think 100K more or less makes it act locked, with just enough play that I won't break something unnecessarily. It wheelies pretty quickly, and I like that, but I know some do not. I was able to pull a back-flip on 6s, even with my MMX set for 50% punch and the throttle curve pretty flat at the start.

The 50K may be a tad too thick in the front, the steering sucks, but I think mostly due to the flex of the servo mount. I'm getting a different shorter servo to fit properly without spacers, and doing the aluminum standoff mod rather than spend so much on the machined GKA mount. After that, I'll see how the steering is, but locking up the front diff with thick fluid will affect your turning radius because the wheels can't turn independently. The 50K rear causes it to do a little bit of drift in the loose stuff, but I think I like it so far.

 

[Dubbl-A]

I run 500K in the center. Love it.
But I don't race and I like things a bit ridiculous.

 

[dpricenator]

I'll be changing the center diff fluid out for 100k, as I will already be taking it off the car, to figure out where I went wrong. After being on the shelf, in various states of disassembly, for the past 5 weeks I was finally able to get her up and running again. The Hot Racing Bellcrank and the voltage hobbies Steering rack are AWESOME. The Savox 1210SG is awesome even on the stock mount (not permanent). Front and rear diff seem to be doing what I expected. I did the diff hanger mod from the stock motor mount, and this is most likely where my problem is. 2 4s runs and everything was fine. About 10 minutes into the 1st 6S run and it won't go. I look at it, and the motor can't even turn, the pinion, and the center diff carrier is no longer sitting in the mount. I am thinking user error, but who knows. I don't even know exactly the cause yet.

ugh