Kraton Kraton Sputtering Issues Going Forward, But Not In Reverse?

j1980mac

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Seems the Kraton V2 is sputtering (loosing power) going forward, but not in reverse, has full power going backwards.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!
 

typhon34

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Ahh ok.... Shouldnt be doing that then.
Could be esc ?
Any dirt in the connections ? Battery/motor/esc ?

The bmx track i go to is made of really fine yellow building sand... Gets in everything !
 

j1980mac

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Craziest thing, disconnected the motor connects, air sprayed them out, and it works like a charm! I'll add to this thread if it acts up again.
 

j1980mac

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Well, looks like the issue happened again! I got it on video. It's happening on multiple battery packs: 4S, & 6S.

Anyone ever have this happen to them before?

 

typhon34

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Bugga ! only other minor issue i can think of is throttle trim. My typhon wouldnt take off at all the other and it turned out the throttle trim knob had turned a little bit.... And yesterday arvo my kraton wouldnt go backards... Was the same thing, it was like mabye 1/3 of a mm. Really small amount.

So could just be sitting in a spot thats affecting the power in forwards on yours ?
 

j1980mac

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Yeah, it's not the throttle trim. I wish it were that easy. The truck runs great for about 5-10 minutes, and then these problems start. Motor, ESC and heatsink are all within normal temperatures.
 

Rich Duperbash

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This may be a longshot, but try recalibrating your ESC to controller per manual page 27 under throttle setup. I've found that turning ESC on before the controller can cause odd behaviors at any point during a run. Was having some ghost driving and loss of reverse until after recalibration. Almost wrecked Kraton 2 months ago because of it, had to manually wrestle her back under control. Hit myself in the ankle with bumper trying to shut her down....Lol.
 

j1980mac

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This may be a longshot, but try recalibrating your ESC to controller per manual page 27 under throttle setup. I've found that turning ESC on before the controller can cause odd behaviors at any point during a run. Was having some ghost driving and loss of reverse until after recalibration. Almost wrecked Kraton 2 months ago because of it, had to manually wrestle her back under control. Hit myself in the ankle with bumper trying to shut her down....Lol.

@Rich Duperbash I'd hate to have to get in front of a 9 pound 50mph shin splitter! lol

I have always turned on the receiver first, but I can try to recalibrate for sure! I'll keep you updated!

@Rich Duperbash I'd hate to have to get in front of a 9 pound 50mph shin splitter! lol

I have always turned on the receiver first, but I can try to recalibrate for sure! I'll keep you updated!

Well, I first reset it to factory default, then I re-calibrated the receiver, then I mastered the ESC tuning. Changed the punch to 9 (not like it needs it), then I adjusted the brakes to 50%.

I ran it around with the top off doing a few short runs, and it hasn't acted up yet. I'll try it tomorrow when it gets a bit warmer.
 

j1980mac

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@Rich Duperbash I'd hate to have to get in front of a 9 pound 50mph shin splitter! lol

I have always turned on the receiver first, but I can try to recalibrate for sure! I'll keep you updated!



Well, I first reset it to factory default, then I re-calibrated the receiver, then I mastered the ESC tuning. Changed the punch to 9 (not like it needs it), then I adjusted the brakes to 50%.

I ran it around with the top off doing a few short runs, and it hasn't acted up yet. I'll try it tomorrow when it gets a bit warmer.

Ran it again this morning, same issue still exists. :(
 

Rich Duperbash

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Ran it again this morning, same issue still exists. :(
Ran it again this morning, same issue still exists. :(
This is really a stretch, but have you made certain it's not something mechanical and not electrical....ie... rear drive cup grub screw off rear diff came loose? I've found they can come loose and catch the input shaft intermittently due to caked on red locker from factory. That would cause loss of forward push on harder throttle. One of my cups seemed tight, but wasn't actually locked in well, had to heat off grub screw and reseat after cleaning input shaft and cup. Couldn't discern any noise from your video. If you're feeling fairly certain your connections are all good and your LVC is set right, and ruled out mechanical drive train issues, may consider ESC swap with Arrma. Did you calibrate after ESC reset to default settings?
 

j1980mac

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This is really a stretch, but have you made certain it's not something mechanical and not electrical....ie... rear drive cup grub screw off rear diff came loose? I've found they can come loose and catch the input shaft intermittently due to caked on red locker from factory. That would cause loss of forward push on harder throttle. One of my cups seemed tight, but wasn't actually locked in well, had to heat off grub screw and reseat after cleaning input shaft and cup. Couldn't discern any noise from your video. If you're feeling fairly certain your connections are all good and your LVC is set right, and ruled out mechanical drive train issues, may consider ESC swap with Arrma. Did you calibrate after ESC reset to default settings?

@Rich Duperbash You see I wondered about that. But if it was mechanical, I'd assume it would act up in reverse also? Well, reverse isn't as fast as forward, so that may not apply... I'll definitely look at that again. :)

I called Arrma and they will send me a new ESC, but I'm probably going to get the HobbyWing eventually anyhow.
 

Rich Duperbash

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@Rich Duperbash You see I wondered about that. But if it was mechanical, I'd assume it would act up in reverse also? Well, reverse isn't as fast as forward, so that may not apply... I'll definitely look at that again. :)

I called Arrma and they will send me a new ESC, but I'm probably going to get the HobbyWing eventually anyhow.
If you we're going front wheel drive intermittently, reverse would still appear somewhat normal, but forward propulsion would be lacking. Good to hear they'll replace your ESC though. I thought 185 ESC was from Hobby Wing, but could be wrong.
 

j1980mac

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Oh, last week I had temporarily hollowed out the broken front diff (to run it while waiting on parts) hooked up the dog bones, and locked the center diff with tire glue, making it just RWD. Since then, I put in a new front diff (just the pre-built gear assembly), and a brand new center diff I assembled, adding 500K cst.

I think from all the torque of the center diff being locked, I chipped off one tiny spot off the front diff gear and it chewed up the spline (inside the housing). So I then had to take the whole front end off and replaced it all again with a new diff/and housing with 100k cst.

My drive train appears to be solid now.
 
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j1980mac

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This is really a stretch, but have you made certain it's not something mechanical and not electrical....ie... rear drive cup grub screw off rear diff came loose? I've found they can come loose and catch the input shaft intermittently due to caked on red locker from factory. That would cause loss of forward push on harder throttle. One of my cups seemed tight, but wasn't actually locked in well, had to heat off grub screw and reseat after cleaning input shaft and cup. Couldn't discern any noise from your video. If you're feeling fairly certain your connections are all good and your LVC is set right, and ruled out mechanical drive train issues, may consider ESC swap with Arrma. Did you calibrate after ESC reset to default settings?

Hey @Rich Duperbash I found the culprit!

The ESC wire was rubbing against (underneath) the front dog bone. I didn't see it until I pulled everything apart. Just black taped it up really good. Surprised the ESC didn't short out.

Also, the front drive cup was also stripped out, so this could have well been part of the issue as well. Maybe it was the actual issue, but didn't show up until it was warmed up.

Back to the bash I go!

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