Kraton kraton v5 steering sucks all known fixes tried?

[jkflow]

Take a look if any of the power is getting lost in the servo saver. If yes = more c-clips.

By all means, when you rig is running and the wheels are spinning the friction is minimal compared to your test.
You are over-testing imho.
Typically a 25kg is sufficient but many have moved to the 35kg version. Order a pair from china for half the price and in the meantime bash the heck out of it. If you are looking for better steering under full speed, that won't solve that problem as servo power is only a minimal factor and if you want to steer on carpet during standstill you are missing the point of a basher
Yes I get it, been there done that, I have moved to a 35kg myself a while back but honestly there was no difference for myself.
The 25kg is still 100% better than stock 15kg versions but the large tires are causing a lot of friction.

 

[Jimbobjr]

For those that also have the Talion, does it have the same turn radius as the Kraton, or is it tighter due to tires and smaller shock towers?

Talion is light years tighter as long as it is stock. Weigh it down with a bunch of heavy up grades and big tires, it will be pig too.

 

[sroy]

With all Hot Racing the HR bellcrank still hits the HR gearbox; at least it did for me on my Kraton EXB. I switched back to a stock bellcrank. It appears Arrma now has molded out a tiny chunk of plastic from the bellcrank exactly where the binding happens. It actually looks like a defective chipped plastic part unless you look at it very closely, and you realize it is supposed to be like that. I had thought about dremelling down my HR bellcrank but thought it was too close to the nut and figured I'd risk not getting it right. Couldn't be bothered so went back to stock. I also had a thread about this issue (with photos) from a few weeks back).

I installed the two extra c-clips to the servo saver (what a pain to install.....), I have a Futaba steering servo (which is great but not waterproof), and my Kraton turns on the dime at low speed. I also have a m2c servo horn and ackerman, and have the BEC voltage set to 7.4V, and tossed the bushings in favor of Avid bearings.

A good test is if you push the front end of your rig down all the way, hard, and try steering. On my rig it still steers the same when doing this.

With my HR steering setup in both the V5 and EXB Roller. Nothing hits. I also have HR servo holder and diff housings in both. So I’m not sure what happened in your case. On a side note the HR servo saver was too short and I used the stock aluminum one. Not sure if I mentioned that prior?

 

[Trainwreck]

I have a v4 I took the servo saver apart and added about 3/8” of shim.

 

[nyev]

With my HR steering setup in both the V5 and EXB Roller. Nothing hits. I also have HR servo holder and diff housings in both. So I’m not sure what happened in your case. On a side note the HR servo saver was too short and I used the stock aluminum one. Not sure if I mentioned that prior?

It just BARELY grazes so could be a difference in tolerances? Enough for the steering to appear slightly “sticky” towards the endpoints though. The other possibility is that you bellcranks are riding ever so slightly higher which would also clear the diff box. Some people shim the bellcrank up to address this issue.
Arrma has obviously identified the issue in the stock part by adding that notch in the plastic bellcrank- seems that this was a revision, as some people have noted having the issue on the stock part where there is no notch.

 

[TexAg09]

It just BARELY grazes so could be a difference in tolerances? Enough for the steering to appear slightly “sticky” towards the endpoints though. The other possibility is that you bellcranks are riding ever so slightly higher which would also clear the diff box. Some people shim the bellcrank up to address this issue.
Arrma has obviously identified the issue in the stock part by adding that notch in the plastic bellcrank- seems that this was a revision, as some people have noted having the issue on the stock part where there is no notch.

I recently discovered my EXB does this as well. Last time I had the steering pulled out to add snap rings, I was checking movement and noticed mine does the exact same thing when maxing it out either direction. The bell crank/Ackerman assembly get a little too close to the input shaft cup for my comfort, so I’ll probably just limit the end points a tad.

 

[jkflow]

Input shaft cup is stable, change your taste
Steering limits should be based on servo throw and max extension of steering. Anything interfering is wrong and needs to be fixed.
There is nothing in the Arrma design that would interfere.

 

[TexAg09]

Input shaft cup is stable, change your taste
Steering limits should be based on servo throw and max extension of steering. Anything interfering is wrong and needs to be fixed.
There is nothing in the Arrma design that would interfere.

It’s not a question of stability. It’s an issue of mechanical contact between moving components that shouldn’t touch. I don’t think a lot of people notice this contact unless you have the wheels off and fully move steering to 100% side to side. It is definitely a design flaw.

 

[TexAg09]

@jkflow Follow up. Never mind...I’m wondering if when I saw this contact the top plate wasn’t affixed, allowing the steering assembly to sit further forward than designed. When I try it now there is no contact.

 

[jlatimore3]

Take a look if any of the power is getting lost in the servo saver. If yes = more c-clips.

By all means, when you rig is running and the wheels are spinning the friction is minimal compared to your test.
You are over-testing imho.
Typically a 25kg is sufficient but many have moved to the 35kg version. Order a pair from china for half the price and in the meantime bash the heck out of it. If you are looking for better steering under full speed, that won't solve that problem as servo power is only a minimal factor and if you want to steer on carpet during standstill you are missing the point of a basher
Yes I get it, been there done that, I have moved to a 35kg myself a while back but honestly there was no difference for myself.
The 25kg is still 100% better than stock 15kg versions but the large tires are causing a lot of friction.

I had a spare Animos 25kg servo lying around and that worked. Turns alot better. I was never trying to turn at full speed, but knew it should have been better than what I was getting. Kinda frustrated that the more expensive powerhd servo got outperformed by the $25 amazon special. Maybe some gears in the powerhd one are stripped or something. Oh well, turns great now. Thanks for the help

 

[jkflow]

I wasn't happy with my PowerHD either. Hard to beat the DS type servos nowadays.

 

[nyev]

Input shaft cup is stable, change your taste
Steering limits should be based on servo throw and max extension of steering. Anything interfering is wrong and needs to be fixed.
There is nothing in the Arrma design that would interfere.

Not suggesting I’m 100% sure, but the change Arrma made to the steering bell crank seems to suggest that there was in fact a design issue they needed to find a workaround for, due to the bellcrank causing SLIGHT stickiness at the end of steering travel. Might not be noticeable to some people. I think it’s a change because some others don’t seem to have the added notch on their Arrma bellcrank.

That said, I was using a Hot Racing gearbox and not stock, but still, the fact remains that Arrma put a “notch” in the bellcrank precisely where the stickiness was happening for me. See my thread with photos here.

 

[TexAg09]

Not suggesting I’m 100% sure, but the change Arrma made to the steering bell crank seems to suggest that there was in fact a design issue they needed to find a workaround for, due to the bellcrank causing SLIGHT stickiness at the end of steering travel. Might not be noticeable to some people. I think it’s a change because some others don’t seem to have the added notch on their Arrma bellcrank.

That said, I was using a Hot Racing gearbox and not stock, but still, the fact remains that Arrma put a “notch” in the bellcrank precisely where the stickiness was happening for me. See my thread with photos here.

I can’t remember, but in the video where it showed the binding...was the top plate on or off? I noticed mine was doing the same thing when checking for travel while working in the bell crank and the top plate was off. Now that it is bolted together there is no binding.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Yeah, my truck required a new aluminum servo mount, 35kg servo (new horn too), and at least 3 clips on the servo saver to get adequate turning on grass on throttle. Some backflips and maybe playing with the diff fluid weight will get it on a dime. Maybe thicker sway bars too.

It's not an issue on 4S (honestly my 4S battery was a waste of money haha) or bashing, but on grass or 6S full throttle the damn thing just can't turn. But it's not a SCT or Buggy I suppose.

I was thinking of adding/removing shims to all three differentials. Wondering what’s everyone’s preferred diff oil weight in their K6s? I was watching a YT’er and he suggested 50k wt in front, 500k in center and 20k in the rear. Are these the “go-to”?

 

[Sargent_Horse]

I was thinking of adding/removing shims to all three differentials. Wondering what’s everyone’s preferred diff oil weight in their K6s? I was watching a YT’er and he suggested 50k wt in front, 500k in center and 20k in the rear. Are these the “go-to”?

Differential shimming should be done after a few hard packs. I then check the shims when I check diff fluids every once in awhile. It won't affect anything other than reducing gear breakages since you're ensuring better engagement between gears

50-60k front / 300k-500k center / 20-30k rear is the pretty standard bashing setup, it puts power down much better. Some people even run 1 million in the center.

 

[Nicholas yambao]

I added snap rings/e-clips into my servo saver and it helped alot, although it took 4 of those clips to do the trick. Definitely Do Not over tighten the pivot balls, it will throw your whole steering game off. The steering is not like a performance tuned race car but I got it good enough for me to enjoy.

 

[SaltyLocal]

I wasn't happy with my PowerHD either. Hard to beat the DS type servos nowadays.

Are the DS servos still a staple and the preferred when upgrading? My stock V5 Kraton servo crapped itself. I’ve ordered the HR servo saver with its 25T arm, an HR aluminum mount and some diff fluid (60k for front, 500k center and 20k rear). I’m hesitant to buy such a cheap servo (firm believer in ya get what ya paid for), but only hear good things about the DS servos.

Also, would it be in my best interest to purchase the HR Aluminum Bearing Steering Bellcrank and their Servo Saver Tube with Clamping Nut?

(figured I’d ask in this thread rather than starting another; hope this is ok)

edit: forgot to mention that my V5 is bone stock minus a TBR wheelie bar and RPM wing mount.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Are the DS servos still a staple and the preferred when upgrading? My stock V5 Kraton servo crapped itself. I’ve ordered the HR servo saver with its 25T arm, an HR aluminum mount and some diff fluid (60k for front, 500k center and 20k rear). I’m hesitant to buy such a cheap servo (firm believer in ya get what ya paid for), but only hear good things about the DS servos.

Also, would it be in my best interest to purchase the HR Aluminum Bearing Steering Bellcrank and their Servo Saver Tube with Clamping Nut?

(figured I’d ask in this thread rather than starting another; hope this is ok)

edit: forgot to mention that my V5 is bone stock minus a TBR wheelie bar and RPM wing mount.

I cannot really recomamnd them anymore my steering is all sloppy cant go straight on concrete. Idk what exactly is wrong but my kraton exb has a power HD servo now and its less sloppy. My hobyshop told me they stopped selling power HD because they just kept burning out. Idk if that is true but the DS servos seem to have too much play and are less powerful than what they claim

 

[SaltyLocal]

I cannot really recomamnd them anymore my steering is all sloppy cant go straight on concrete. Idk what exactly is wrong but my kraton exb has a power HD servo now and its less sloppy. My hobyshop told me they stopped selling power HD because they just kept burning out. Idk if that is true but the DS servos seem to have too much play and are less powerful than what they claim

Any recommendations on a quality servo with a stock motor (for now at least) that could potentially handle a better future motor upgrade?

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Are the DS servos still a staple and the preferred when upgrading? My stock V5 Kraton servo crapped itself. I’ve ordered the HR servo saver with its 25T arm, an HR aluminum mount and some diff fluid (60k for front, 500k center and 20k rear). I’m hesitant to buy such a cheap servo (firm believer in ya get what ya paid for), but only hear good things about the DS servos.

Also, would it be in my best interest to purchase the HR Aluminum Bearing Steering Bellcrank and their Servo Saver Tube with Clamping Nut?

(figured I’d ask in this thread rather than starting another; hope this is ok)

edit: forgot to mention that my V5 is bone stock minus a TBR wheelie bar and RPM wing mount.

The DS3235KG is not the best, fastest, or toughest servo. However, in a basher these things don't matter too much. Mine last about 6 to 8 months at least in my Kraton and I drive terribly. I'd rather break a 30 dollar good enough servo than an expensive one.