Limitless - 130 MPH goal

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RuffRiki

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Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. Granite
  3. Infraction
  4. Limitless
Greetings Arrma!

I am new to the hobby but I have no turning back. So far I have bought the granite and the infraction but now I want more and more speed.
I will be buying the limitless in a few days. I need your recommendation on what to put I
In the thing to achieve my 130 MPH goal.
Help!
 
Wow, I ordered this morning and received my shipping confirmation just now.

so that’s out the way.

please talk Servos with me.

I was looking at the savox 2290SG-BE, saw someone use this in a YouTube video.

what do you recommend?

Everyone has their brand preferences.
I have always used Savox and didn't have any issues. I have the 2290 sg in my 200+ build. I'll admit some of that was for how nice it looks ;)

Some guys I know like MKS.

Other brands like @Harriot10 provided a link to above look interesting, and likely provide very similar results at a cost savings.
 
How much do professionals rely on AVC during speed runs?
 
How much do professionals rely on AVC during speed runs?
I would say the majority don't use gyros in their cars.
Some swear by them in relation to helping keep the car straight during braking. This is mostly because they cannot see the car at the end of the run.
I have always liked the idea of using the castle drag brake setting and letting the ESC handle smooth braking for you.

If you decide to run a gyro the top guys seem to use futaba gyros for the stabilization.

I have heard people say it made the car twitchy at fast speeds during acceleration. All is hear say as I don't have any personal experience using one...
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Center-Bra...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

has anyone ever tried this esc mount with the flipped motor setup on the limitless (soda can motor)
Based on the design of the original and this center brace, you could probably flip it so the ESC is in front without issue. The front center brace (front top plate to chassis) has a more aggressive downward angle than the rear, so if the center brace with ESC mount clears the rear it should also clear the front.

All that being said, I have not used this esc mount brace, so I can't say 100% for certain
 
Based on the design of the original and this center brace, you could probably flip it so the ESC is in front without issue. The front center brace (front top plate to chassis) has a more aggressive downward angle than the rear, so if the center brace with ESC mount clears the rear it should also clear the front.

All that being said, I have not used this esc mount brace, so I can't say 100% for certain
And I honestly didn’t think of that.
Even if it still doesn’t fit what I have in mind that still just multiplied my hope and the possibilities.

THANK YOU!
 
Thank you...

I must have seen that video about 20 times...🤣

But don’t you think all this wouldn’t fit the same if he had the limitless body?
I so desperately want to run the limitless body, i
Notice he also had to cut out the back of his truck to get the esc to pop and actually get air. That’s fine for the infraction but for the limitless?
 
The Limitless body is pretty low in the middle/rear section. I suspect that ESC mount will not work.

8s + Tight fitting body + Large electronics = creative thinking required.

Maybe this image can give you some ideas? You will likely have to test it out and see what works. As a side note I have heard of people moving the steering servo and that related steering post to the other side. Maybe in front of the motor would give you the most space and keep more real estate for batteries also. I assume behind the motor gets too close to the tire, but maybe not?

1624977545079.png
 
Ok fingers crossed all the way up.
I’ll update you guys tomorrow, everything should arrive by then. 🤞
 
Thank you guys so much for the support so far.
The roller and parts are finally coming in so it’s time to get to work.

you will be updated.

Doing this for all other newbies who may come across this thread.

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See my other 2 children...
 

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Ok it’s coming together. Did as much as I can on the first day. More parts will be in tomorrow.
Also see a possible location for the esc that will leave “SOME” room for batteries 🤞. About 3/4” clearance between the top of this esc and the body. I think that’s ok for now and alter I may open vents in the body, in some location that will not give me lift.

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Definitely don't want to cut the body ANYWHERE at all! Doesn't matter where the holes are it will either cause lift and parachuting or drag.
 
In my laying out of where everything will go in this build I’m finding that the ESC to battery wire connection is a little short for what I had in mind.
Are there any downsides or considerations in soldering on an extra 1-2” of wire to the ESC or battery wires?
Thanks.
 
Definitely don't want to cut the body ANYWHERE at all! Doesn't matter where the holes are it will either cause lift and parachuting or drag.
Just to be clear, even if I install a mesh-covered vent at this location shown in my pic, it will still have the negative effect? I am asking because this spot right here is more rear facing, I assume air should flow over this spot based on the body aerodynamic design?
What do you think?
41F20D0D-17A3-4ECE-A870-B9708CD0D810.jpeg
 
I still would not cut a hole anywhere. As even though it's kinda rear facing the air flowing over it will then go into the body with it being cut and cause drag or parachuting. Now if your just going to bash around sure cut it up but for speed running definitely do not want any holes. Also why you will want to tape the body shut to the chassis also to again prevent any air from getting in the body and causing parachuting.
 
I still would not cut a hole anywhere. As even though it's kinda rear facing the air flowing over it will then go into the body with it being cut and cause drag or parachuting. Now if your just going to bash around sure cut it up but for speed running definitely do not want any holes. Also why you will want to tape the body shut to the chassis also to again prevent any air from getting in the body and causing parachuting.
Good.

thank you.
In my laying out of where everything will go in this build I’m finding that the ESC to battery wire connection is a little short for what I had in mind.
Are there any downsides or considerations in soldering on an extra 1-2” of wire to the ESC or battery wires?
Thanks.
 
Just to be clear, even if I install a mesh-covered vent at this location shown in my pic, it will still have the negative effect? I am asking because this spot right here is more rear facing, I assume air should flow over this spot based on the body aerodynamic design?
What do you think? View attachment 155311
I like the stickers on top your Packout. I need to get some for mine. AvE offers some awesome ones from his YouTube channel. The channel is worth the watch, too.
 
Good.

thank you.
In my laying out of where everything will go in this build I’m finding that the ESC to battery wire connection is a little short for what I had in mind.
Are there any downsides or considerations in soldering on an extra 1-2” of wire to the ESC or battery wires?
Thanks.
If your shooting for big numbers like 150+ any extra wire and connections can make a big difference adding more resistance but if your just starting out it will be ok for now. But yes any extra length or more connections adds resistance to the power flow. Definitely a downside with Castle is the shorter wires but shorter is better so. Have you looked at possibly the T2T brace mount for the XLX2, it puts it in the center which helps.
 
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