Big Rock Mesh in power mod

[Jimmer101]

Hi everyone

My power module came loose so I'm about to tighten up.

However it looks like the red metal but with ADJ mesh on it has bent a bit?

Presumably it's supposed to be flush?


Help !

Thank you so much
Simon

Is it

 

[gotnitro]

Yes, your motor mount is bent.

 

[Engineer]

Yep, bent mount. Also throw a flat washer underneath the head of the screw before you reattach the motor as you don't want to divot the aluminum from the screw head - makes setting the mesh harder.

 

[Velodromed]

Hi everyone

My power module came loose so I'm about to tighten up.

However it looks like the red metal but with ADJ mesh on it has bent a bit?

Presumably it's supposed to be flush?


Help !

Thank you so much
Simon

Is it

View attachment 212482

View attachment 212483

Yeah you bent the hell out of it. Try to get the updated thicker stock motor mount and put a 36mm o-ring around the end of the motor can.

Or even better get a m2c mount/brace, if you have $75 to drop on it.

 

[K-BASH]

Order a new one..can beat that one flat an keep going.heres my module..kept cutting till I could fit the big speed gears in it .ran 112mph yesterday on 5s..I just got this mount off ebay.

 

[Velodromed]

Order a new one..can beat that one flat an keep going.heres my module..kept cutting till I could fit the big speed gears in it .ran 112mph yesterday on 5s..I just got this mount off ebay.

View attachment 212496

View attachment 212497

View attachment 212498

That mount looks thicker then the hot racing and old stock mount. Got a set of calipers? I’m curious…

 

[K-BASH]

That mount looks thicker then the hot racing and old stock mount. Got a set of calipers? I’m curious…

It's a V1 mount with the fixed,non adjustable holes in mount..I like them cause pinion can't move..I've hammered this one flat couple times.lol
Here's v1 an v2..they look the same thicknesses

 

[Velodromed]

It's a V1 mount with the fixed,non adjustable holes in mount..I like them cause pinion can't move..I've hammered this one flat couple times.lol
Here's v1 an v2..they look the same thicknesses

Ok, it was the picture then. The new mounts are a good millimeter thicker maybe a touch more. I have one in old yeller and have yet to bend it so it’s pretty solid.

 

[Jimmer101]

Thank you all so much .. I have bashed it out a bit ! I may need a little shim under one side ..

I will also get some washers also tomorrow.

Fingers crossed this will do it .. I am surprised that I have managed to bend the mount

Thank you again !

 

[K-BASH]

Thank you all so much .. I have bashed it out a bit ! I may need a little shim under one side ..

I will also get some washers also tomorrow.

Fingers crossed this will do it .. I am surprised that I have managed to bend the mount

Thank you again !

Stick something under back of motor for support..packing foam works,furniture leg pads,,,it'll help

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Stick something under back of motor for support..packing foam works,furniture leg pads,,,it'll help

I'm starting to think that the 3s motor plate bending is NOT from hard landings when landing on 4 wheels.

The types of failure I'm seeing don't indicate any twisting of the motor mount (either side to side or up and down impacts). For example, if the motor plate warped when landing on 4 wheels from a high jump, the top part of the motor plate would be pulled out from the power module (forward) and the bottom would be pulled into the power module (rear). Most of the pictures of bent mounts I've seen, including from my own experience, are that the top and bottom side of the mount are bent equally, like the first picture OP posted. Things just don't add up.

This leads me to believe that the common bent 3s motor mounts are from hard frontal impacts. This would pull the motor forward. Since the motor plate is captured on the right and left sides, this causes it to bend at the weakest point, the adjustable slots. Physics wise, that would make the motor plate looke like a bridge, suspended between the two outside screws on the power module with the motor as the weight on the bridge. The failure being "sag" from excessive force on the middle of the bridge when the motor is pulled forward.

It makes me curious... I know there are lots of solutions people have found for preventing side to side movement of the motor: O-rings, DIY cradles for the motor. But i haven't seen much DIY stuff that would help with forward motion of the motor. M2C's motor plate/brace is the right idea i think -- they have a fatty brace that holds up the middle of the motor plate, making the bridge shorter and harder to bend. Just $$$$$.

I'm pretty confident that motor plate failure comes from a design flaw that can't withstand hard frontal impacts (but can reasonably handle all other types of impacts). Curious what others think about this, and what DIY solutions would prevent that kind of failure.

 

[Kla912000]

I'm starting to think that the 3s motor plate bending is NOT from hard landings when landing on 4 wheels.

The types of failure I'm seeing don't indicate any twisting of the motor mount (either side to side or up and down impacts). For example, if the motor plate warped when landing on 4 wheels from a high jump, the top part of the motor plate would be pulled out from the power module (forward) and the bottom would be pulled into the power module (rear). Most of the pictures of bent mounts I've seen, including from my own experience, are that the top and bottom side of the mount are bent equally, like the first picture OP posted. Things just don't add up.

This leads me to believe that the common bent 3s motor mounts are from hard frontal impacts. This would pull the motor forward. Since the motor plate is captured on the right and left sides, this causes it to bend at the weakest point, the adjustable slots. Physics wise, that would make the motor plate looke like a bridge, suspended between the two outside screws on the power module with the motor as the weight on the bridge. The failure being "sag" from excessive force on the middle of the bridge when the motor is pulled forward.

It makes me curious... I know there are lots of solutions people have found for preventing side to side movement of the motor: O-rings, DIY cradles for the motor. But i haven't seen much DIY stuff that would help with forward motion of the motor. M2C's motor plate/brace is the right idea i think -- they have a fatty brace that holds up the middle of the motor plate, making the bridge shorter and harder to bend. Just $$$$$.

I'm pretty confident that motor plate failure comes from a design flaw that can't withstand hard frontal impacts (but can reasonably handle all other types of impacts). Curious what others think about this, and what DIY solutions would prevent that kind of failure.

I think I agree with you. Maybe that's why I have never bent a motor mount yet. I have never sent my truck into a wall at 50mph. Lol !!!

 

[Jimmer101]

I think I agree with you. Maybe that's why I have never bent a motor mount yet. I have never sent my truck into a wall at 50mph. Lol !!!

There is still time

 

[Hector_Fisher]

I think I agree with you. Maybe that's why I have never bent a motor mount yet. I have never sent my truck into a wall at 50mph. Lol !!!

Not walls. All it takes is one big jump... When you're truck is 30 ft in the air and you're desperately pinning the throttle to get it to nose up, and you watch in horror as it careens downward, almost as if in slow motion, face first into the concrete..... game over the "WASTED" is already popping up above your RC.

 

[Kla912000]

Not walls. All it takes is one big jump... When you're truck is 30 ft in the air and you're desperately pinning the throttle to get it to nose up, and you watch in horror as it careens downward, almost as if in slow motion, face first into the concrete..... game over the "WASTED" is already popping up above your RC.

Never lawn darted my trucks either.