Granite My Granite Voltage upgrades

bondedbyblood

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New member here.
I Bought the Granite Voltage back when Tower had them on sale for $60 and did a few mods.
I kept it brushless as I already had the Hobbywing ESC installed as a replacement for the stock combo ESC that got the blinking light of death and after a bit decided to throw in the 550 and pinion. Its built with a mixture of parts I had laying around and a couple I purchased.

Run down as follows:
Motor - Arrma 550 12 Turn
Pinion - 19 tooth
ESC - Hobbywing 1060
Servo - Annimos 25kg
Receiver - DumboRC X6FG
Body - Cheap Ebay Bug Body
LED Lights
Kraton drive cups

Speed run on this combo with a 2s lipo is 31 mph. Motor was just warm, stock motor would be hot to the touch after a few minutes.

I did a speed run on 3s a couple of days later just for kicks and best speed was 40 mph but it was really squirrelly, lol.

I think I am done with the changes. I am going to need a new set of rear tires though as the pavement runs have really worn them down which is not shown in the photos.

IMG_7103.JPG IMG_7104.JPG IMG_7220.JPG IMG_7241.JPG
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dure0016

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You tried 3S huh? I have the same motor and esc and have contemplated trying 3S. How were the temps?
 

bondedbyblood

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I didn't measure with a temp gun but the esc was warm and the motor was HOT lol! I really wouldn't advise running it on 3s except maybe for a quick speed run or two.

You stated you have the same combo, how is your 1060 ESC doing? With mine I got the dreaded limp mode right out of the box, its a known issue with these units. On a fresh 2s battery I would have top speed for only a few minutes and then speed would be reduced. I installed a cap inline with the esc battery terminal but it didn't really help. Another workaround is putting the battery type jumper to the NiMH spot when using Lipos and it worked, I just have to use a voltage alarm when doing so.
 

dure0016

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You stated you have the same combo, how is your 1060 ESC doing?
I have a couple of them and they've both been fine. The low-voltage cutoff is set super high though, and isn't adjustable, so I also set them to nimh and use lipo alarms.
 

bondedbyblood

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Yes, thats the correct part #. I just recently switched to the Hot Racing HRAAON41C version that I had in my parts been as it has dual set screws compared to the Kraton single set screw and seems to align better on the shaft.
 

arrmaab

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Thanks for verifying. I just ordered a couple of Voltages for my 5 and 8 year old boys to get them started in the hobby. I ordered a few sets of plastic drive cups and a spare diff set as well as a spur gear set for now.

By all accounts it takes a handful of minutes to swap the plastic cups but if I swap to metal and end up breaking the actual diff then it's not as quick of a fix.
 

bondedbyblood

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Thanks for verifying. I just ordered a couple of Voltages for my 5 and 8 year old boys to get them started in the hobby. I ordered a few sets of plastic drive cups and a spare diff set as well as a spur gear set for now.

By all accounts it takes a handful of minutes to swap the plastic cups but if I swap to metal and end up breaking the actual diff then it's not as quick of a fix.

There is a trade off for sure and the cup change is quick as you stated. You'll probably be changing the servo as it weak with plastic gears, I stripped mine within a few days of ownership. Don't bother with a warranty replacement and just grab a cheap metal geared servo from Amazon for around $15.
 

arrmaab

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There is a trade off for sure and the cup change is quick as you stated. You'll probably be changing the servo as it weak with plastic gears, I stripped mine within a few days of ownership. Don't bother with a warranty replacement and just grab a cheap metal geared servo from Amazon for around $15.

Actually I've already ordered 2 new servos as well from Amazon. They'll be installed before the trucks make their maiden voyage. Did you upgrade your servo saver as well or did you just use the stock one?
 

bondedbyblood

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As long as the replacement servo is a 25 tooth the stock servo saver will work.

I am now looking into a set of replacement tires. All the pavement running I've been doing with the new motor has wore them down significantly.
Not sure what I am going to go with yet.. :unsure:
 

dure0016

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As long as the replacement servo is a 25 tooth the stock servo saver will work.

I am now looking into a set of replacement tires. All the pavement running I've been doing with the new motor has wore them down significantly.
Not sure what I am going to go with yet.. :unsure:
I tried heavier off-road tires and started destroying spur gears and diffs. I went back to stock tires and all is good. I think it’s because the stock tires have a good balance of grip and slip and are so lightweight. Food for thought.
 

Velodromed

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Those do fit the voltage so probably what he uses. Typo though - it’s 310432.

I use the below instead. Dual screws and include new axles. High quality. They work well but need longer grub screws than what’s included (4mm). And use loctite.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085DN5W16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_QlI57CAGTNoHs
Thank you for posting the link to these! Been looking high and low for something similar. Can’t find them on the actual integy website though. TG for Amazon 😂
As long as the replacement servo is a 25 tooth the stock servo saver will work.

I am now looking into a set of replacement tires. All the pavement running I've been doing with the new motor has wore them down significantly.
Not sure what I am going to go with yet.. :unsure:
I am keeping our granite voltages 2s for now and I’m looking at these tires (my wife loves the look lol) I think they’ll be ok for the light weight and lower torque-speeds. I don’t think they have too much traction either, should limit cup wear. Diameter works at 5.17 (stock is 5) I’m just not sure if the inner wheel diameter is enough to not interfere.
I’m curious to see what other people find for options. These lightweight little cars are a blast and they hit low jumps quite smoothly.
 

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arrmaab

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I haven’t. I’m not sure it has the power/weight to strip the plastic ones. I’d spend the money elsewhere.
I'm looking at the integy stuff and I see that they make complete rear axles/dog bones with the drive cups for the cost of just the metal cups. If I get to that point I think I'd opt for the complete setup as opposed to just the cups.
 

dure0016

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I'm looking at the integy stuff and I see that they make complete rear axles/dog bones with the drive cups for the cost of just the metal cups. If I get to that point I think I'd opt for the complete setup as opposed to just the cups.
That’s what I have. It’s good. It uses the stock plastic hexes though.
 
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