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Notorious lost steering

JT58

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I noticed some under steering with my Notorious and about a pack later I wasn’t able to turn at all. If I completely loosen the top screw from the servo saver it seems to move freely. Even tightening that to hand tight and the servo can barely turn the wheels. At first I was thinking it could be the servo but taking the arm off the servo doesn’t free things up at all. Any ideas?
 

Mad Man Slice

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Try tightening the servo saver from the bottom plate. Stick a small driver through the plate hole and set it on the little gear that is below the spring on the servo. Now turn your wheels by hand left or right to tighten.
There is a YouTube video for this I believe from Thomas.

Sorry, I wish I could explain this better, but I’m running out the door to work.
Hopefully this is understandable.
 
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JT58

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Try tightening the servo saver from the bottom plate. Stick a small driver through the plate hole and set it on the little gear that is below the spring on the servo. Now turn your wheels by hand left or right to tighten.
There is a YouTube video for this I believe from Tomas.

Sorry, I wish I could explain this better, but I’m running out the door to work.
Hopefully this is understandable.
That was it, thanks!!
 

Jimbobjr

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JT58, if that becomes problematic just locktite it where you like it. I’ve had issues with both my Kraton and Outcast. Don’t know what’s wrong with just having a knurled knob to turn right on top like most have. Not a huge fan of the arrma servo saver. You should not have trouble right out of the box like that.
 

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I just got back from running mine and noticed something very similar, about 3/4 way through my pack I had very little steering - it seemed more pronounced at high speeds, I'll have to check this out.
 

olds97_lss

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JT58, if that becomes problematic just locktite it where you like it. I’ve had issues with both my Kraton and Outcast. Don’t know what’s wrong with just having a knurled knob to turn right on top like most have. Not a huge fan of the arrma servo saver. You should not have trouble right out of the box like that.
Don't overdo it. I think I had mine too tight as it just shattered today 10 minutes into my run after installing Christmas parts... I don't have a spare one of those, so it's down now for the rest of my vacation. :(

 

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You might want to try this. Another member explained the idea, and I realized I had a bunch of these shock spring spacers lying around. Diameter is spot on, and if you have a Traxxas, you probably have these too. Traxxas part 3769, RPM part 70322. Lots of different thicknesses so you can make it as loose or tight as you like. They just snap on and can be removed just as easily.
 

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Mad Man Slice

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That was it, thanks!!
I’m glad you are all fixed up. I would recommend not going more than 4-5mm above the chassis with the gear.
Use some verniers or whatever you have to make a measurement; I use plumbers tape to keep it in place, however, someone mentioned blue threadlocker, and spacers..... these are great ideas too.
Also, I can’t take the credit here..... Thomas P is the man!
 
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Notorious J

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So I was out running and broke my lower a arm after two minutes. See "what did you break today" for details. Came in, replaced the arm and got right back out there. Aluminum servo mount, check. Servo saver adjusted, check. New servo, check. After less than five more minutes, no steering. Haven't had a chance to trouble shoot yet so. Ready. GO
 

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Is the servo making any noises or movements at all?
 

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Try disconnecting the servo arm from the servo, see if it moves at all then. And/or with it connected and powered up, try turning the wheels by hand to force the servo to fight back and see what it does.

If it's totally dead and your throttle still works, then it's either the servo died, got disconnected or the receiver is dead. Receiver can be tested by plugging the esc lead into the steering port, then it will go forward/back when you turn the wheel on the transmitter.

Odds are though, the $20 servo you bought isn't up to the strain of your truck.
 

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It turned out that the steering was binding. I disconnected the servo arm, and could only turn the wheels left freely. Tried to turn right, and it was binding bad. Servo saver was in the right place, so is started to loosen the screw at the top of the servo saver post. Voila, moving free again. I ended up changing the bushings to bearings, but I need to find a shim to go on top of the top bearing. If you tighten down enough, even with the bearings installed, you can feel it start to bind again. I'm trying to avoid a new aluminum assembly. I think it just needs a tweak to get it right.
 

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It turned out that the steering was binding. I disconnected the servo arm, and could only turn the wheels left freely. Tried to turn right, and it was binding bad. Servo saver was in the right place, so is started to loosen the screw at the top of the servo saver post. Voila, moving free again. I ended up changing the bushings to bearings, but I need to find a shim to go on top of the top bearing. If you tighten down enough, even with the bearings installed, you can feel it start to bind again. I'm trying to avoid a new aluminum assembly. I think it just needs a tweak to get it right.
That's odd. Mine fit ok with bearings. Perhaps your bearings didn't seat fully on one end? Or you got 6x10x4 vs 6x10x3 bearings? Or perhaps your using flanged bearings when you should be using standard ones?

I won the bearing kit from fast eddy from a raffle. I think these were what came in it, which is what I used:
https://www.fasteddybearings.com/6x10x3-rubber-sealed-bearing-mr106-2rs/
 

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That's odd. Mine fit ok with bearings. Perhaps your bearings didn't seat fully on one end? Or you got 6x10x4 vs 6x10x3 bearings? Or perhaps your using flanged bearings when you should be using standard ones?

I won the bearing kit from fast eddy from a raffle. I think these were what came in it, which is what I used:
https://www.fasteddybearings.com/6x10x3-rubber-sealed-bearing-mr106-2rs/
I'm using the Fast Eddys as well. I think my problem was that I was using a c type shock collar under the servo saver. Seemed like a good idea, but when the saver nut backs off, it was forcing down on the collar, causing everything to get tight. I put some loctite on the saver nut, but everything I've read says it's still going to come loose. if I keep the collar, I need a small shim on the top bearing to guarantee it doesn't tighten up when the saver nut backs off again. Any suggestions?
 

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I'm using the Fast Eddys as well. I think my problem was that I was using a c type shock collar under the servo saver. Seemed like a good idea, but when the saver nut backs off, it was forcing down on the collar, causing everything to get tight. I put some loctite on the saver nut, but everything I've read says it's still going to come loose. if I keep the collar, I need a small shim on the top bearing to guarantee it doesn't tighten up when the saver nut backs off again. Any suggestions?
Think I just replied to you in that other thread about it. I'm trying red locktite now. If that doesn't work, I'm taking a chisel to the threads.
 

Notorious J

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Think I just replied to you in that other thread about it. I'm trying red locktite now. If that doesn't work, I'm taking a chisel to the threads.
I was think of drilling a hole straight through the post and using a cross pin, but I know that that would eventually snap. Let me know how it goes as I used blue this time around.
 

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I was think of drilling a hole straight through the post and using a cross pin, but I know that that would eventually snap. Let me know how it goes as I used blue this time around.
You can't drill a hole. There's a solid post inside the post. It's what the bolts go into.

Perhaps taking the nut off, drilling holes in it and putting set screws in it to lock it down onto the threads... not sure there's enough material in the nut to do that though.
 
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