Limitless One side heavier - how to set up suspension?

[dure16]

The left side of my car is heavier and I’m having a hell of a time with shock/droop setup.

If I change droop for an even left/right ride height, then one side lifts much easier than the other.

Limitless V1. Stock except for perfect pass springs. I’ll transition to a heavier motor at some point but not yet.

Any tips?

 

[kspitters]

Maybe try adding some weights to the lighter side. Handling will be wack with an unbalanced car.

 

[Dan B.]

You could always flip your motor mount, move the ESC behind the motor, and mount the battery where your motor is now on its edge, and closer to the center. The added weight of the motor at the front also helps stability.
I didn’t think the idea of adding weight on the lighter side was a bad idea either, and it’s a lot easier. @Tex Koder didn't dig it, though. Why not, just because of adding more weight in general?

 

[SrC]

The left side of my car is heavier and I’m having a hell of a time with shock/droop setup.

If I change droop for an even left/right ride height, then one side lifts much easier than the other.

Limitless V1. Stock except for perfect pass springs. I’ll transition to a heavier motor at some point but not yet.

Any tips?



View attachment 308478

Ballast weight is always an option, but don't do that first. Only if the geometry is correct first. I use my Crossweight digital scale to confirm later on.
FWIW, I have gotten a defective Lim chassis before. No matter what I did, the Lft front droop was way off. I removed the whole chassis for a closer look and the chassis was very poorly stamped at the left front where the lower B Block attatches. HH sent me a new chassis. This boggled me for weeks. Until I stripped the whole chassis down. I wasted so much time pulling my hair out in regards. It was just a bad stamped chassis. Only obvious when I removed the whole chassis.
You are not running tandem packs, so sure you are heavy at the left side, now. Play with some wheel weights to offest the imbalance. Trial and error where they need to be. Painstaking if you reallly want it dead on balanced.

 

[dure16]

You could always flip your motor mount, move the ESC behind the motor, and mount the battery where your motor is now on its edge, and closer to the center. The added weight of the motor at the front also helps stability.
I didn’t think the idea of adding weight on the lighter side was a bad idea either, and it’s a lot easier. @Tex Koder didn't dig it, though. Why not, just because of adding more weight in general?

I plan to run much larger motors once I get the hang of this, so I tried to future-proof my layout. I can only run bigger motors if I leave the motor/ESC/battery placement as is.

Ballast weight is always an option, but don't do that first. Only if the geometry is correct first. I use my Crossweight digital scale to confirm.
I FWIW, I have gotten a defective Lim chassis before. No matter what I did, the Lft front droop was way off. I removed the whole chassis for a cloer look and the chassis was very poorly stamped at the left front where the lower bnlcok attatches. HH sent me a ne chassi. This boggled me for weeks. Until I stripped the whole chassis down. i wasted so much time pulling my hair out in regards. it was just bad stamped chassis. Only obvious when I removed the whole chassis.
You are not running tandem packs, so sure you are heavy at the left side, now. Play with some wheel weights to offest the imbalance. Trial and error where they need to be. Painstaking if you reallly want it dead on balanced.

I just assumed the weight imbalance was the issue but will have to keep this in mind. Thanks.

 

[Tex Koder]

You could always flip your motor mount, move the ESC behind the motor, and mount the battery where your motor is now on its edge, and closer to the center. The added weight of the motor at the front also helps stability.
I didn’t think the idea of adding weight on the lighter side was a bad idea either, and it’s a lot easier. @Tex Koder didn't dig it, though. Why not, just because of adding more weight in general?

Yes, that's correct.

Why add more dead weight to the rig? Instead just relocate your ESC to the right? You may need to mount it on its side..

 

[dure16]

Yes, that's correct.

Why add more dead weight to the rig? Instead just relocate your ESC to the right? You may need to mount it on its side..

I have a Castle 1721 on the shelf that I plan to use soon. That wouldn’t fit if I relocated the ESC.

I don’t expect a perfect setup. Just looking for tips to minimize the effects of the weight imbalance.

 

[LicketySplit]

I don't use droop screws really. I just turn them until they touch the tab to stop from ripping the ends off during a crash. Set your front ride height with spacers under the shock piston. To fine tune my ride height and so it lifts even I just unscrewed the shock end half a turn at a time until everything was perfect. This works for me and my cars track like they are on rails so I must be doing something right.

 

[Tirefryer426]

I run an offset dual motor on a GT chassis. The way I do it is that I get it as close as I can with the droops. This is doing the finger lift test on the front and the rear. Just remember that if say your front left tire is coming off the ground first, you are going to want to adjust the rear left by adding spring or by loosening the droopscrew. Opposite forces on the other side. Rear right, you can soften the spring, and/or tighten droop to push the front left down.
Same thing when you do the front end lift test by pushing down on the rear. Rough tune with droops, fine tune with springs.
My method is to work from front to rear and always prioritize the front. I set my ride height front, set rear. Finger lift test front, finger lift test rear. Push down on the spoiler last.
I'm also running aluminum a arms so I'm not worried about warp from the droop screws. James discusses his method in one of his latest videos. Think he's using button screws with nuts to adjust.