Outcast Outcast 6s motor/esc upgrade suggestions?

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rahul5454

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
  2. Outcast 6s
Guys, I am new here and I wanted to get some suggestions on a motor/esc upgrade and see what you guys have tried and tested before. I have been running stock for a while now and I was thinking of the MMX/2200kv Castle combo. Do you guys think this will provide much an upgrade to the stock truck? Any other castle setup recommendation? What about the Sidewinder 8th combo instead? Thanks in advance.
 
Guessing you will want more amps than either the MMX or sidewinder has to offer and less kv. I still have the stock motor in mine, but I've upgraded the BLX185 (150A) with a max6 (160A) esc. Hoping that lets me run the 14T pinion without overheating in the grass like the BLX185 did. I run strapped trencher 3.8's on my outcast. With the BLX185, I'd get about 12 minutes of decent running before the ESC thermaled on me. Dropping down to a 13T would let me run 18-19 minutes to LVC with 6200mah 3S packs.

You will also likely want to stay below 2100kv on the motor. Higher KV tends to run on the hot side. Unless you want to run 4S, then you might be ok with the MMX/2200kv.

I have the MMX/2200kv in my savage flux and it runs on the warm side on 6S. It did fine when I ran 4S in it, geared for around 45 mph. 6S made it crazy to drive, but I had to gear it down quite a bit to help with esc heat. The motor still runs pretty warm.

The MMX/2200kv would probably be ok in something lighter like the Typhon.
 
MM2 and a Hobbywing 4985 1650kv combo is a beast. The MMX esc is good I wouldn't do the 2200kv motor though.

Sidewinder 8th would probably be a downgrade maybe about the same performance as the BLX185.

Another popular option is the Max6 with the 4985 1650kv.
 
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Okay got it. So I will stay below the 2200kv motor. Is the 1800kv castle motor doable? With the MMX.

I have never run a hobbywing before. How does it compare to the castle? Price is about the same. Any suggestions?
 
Okay got it. So I will stay below the 2200kv motor. Is the 1800kv castle motor doable? With the MMX.

I have never run a hobbywing before. How does it compare to the castle? Price is about the same. Any suggestions?

Technically the stock esc is a Hobbywing so yes you have run a Hobbywing before lol.

The Castle 1800kv motor is only rated for 4s.

Unless you are doing speed runs you will never notice a difference between the Castle or the Hobbywing. Castle has much nicer software and has a lot more tunability than the Hobbywing.
 
Technically the stock esc is a Hobbywing so yes you have run a Hobbywing before lol.

The Castle 1800kv motor is only rated for 4s.

Unless you are doing speed runs you will never notice a difference between the Castle or the Hobbywing. Castle has much nicer software and has a lot more tunability than the Hobbywing.

lol okay got it. thanks again
 
For what I do, I haven't noticed a huge different from one vs the other.

I've had:
1 x BLX185 (hobbywing based, outcast on 4s and 6s, now stampede 4x4 on 3s)
1 x Max10 SCT (hobbywing, stampede 4x4 on 3s)
2 x Max6 (hobbywing, ERBEv2, outcast on 6s)
1 x MMX (castle, savage flux hp on 4s and 6s)
2 x MXL-6S (castle MMv2, ERBEv1/v2 on 4s and 6s)
1 x Blur F360 (castle MMv1, ERBEv2 6s, Savage Flux HP 4s)
2 x Sidewinder SCT SV3 (castle, stampede 4x4 on 2s/3s)

So far, I'm really liking the max6's. Very nice power curve, easy to setup/adjust in the field with the little box via the fan port, nice power switch. The castle esc's require you to unplug from the receiver to adjust them, which is a pain. The MMv2 and MMv1 I had weren't nearly as smooth as the max6 is at power delivery. The MMv1 was the worse of the 3. I had to fiddle with the power and brake curve quite a bit on my PC to make it usable. Even then, it would chatter quite a bit at low speeds.

I'll likely move the max10 sct I just pulled form my stampede to my eJato as it's running a traxxas vxl-3s in it and you can't adjust much on that thing.
 
For what I do, I haven't noticed a huge different from one vs the other.

I've had:
1 x BLX185 (hobbywing based, outcast on 4s and 6s, now stampede 4x4 on 3s)
1 x Max10 SCT (hobbywing, stampede 4x4 on 3s)
2 x Max6 (hobbywing, ERBEv2, outcast on 6s)
1 x MMX (castle, savage flux hp on 4s and 6s)
2 x MXL-6S (castle MMv2, ERBEv1/v2 on 4s and 6s)
1 x Blur F360 (castle MMv1, ERBEv2 6s, Savage Flux HP 4s)
2 x Sidewinder SCT SV3 (castle, stampede 4x4 on 2s/3s)

So far, I'm really liking the max6's. Very nice power curve, easy to setup/adjust in the field with the little box via the fan port, nice power switch. The castle esc's require you to unplug from the receiver to adjust them, which is a pain. The MMv2 and MMv1 I had weren't nearly as smooth as the max6 is at power delivery. The MMv1 was the worse of the 3. I had to fiddle with the power and brake curve quite a bit on my PC to make it usable. Even then, it would chatter quite a bit at low speeds.

I'll likely move the max10 sct I just pulled form my stampede to my eJato as it's running a traxxas vxl-3s in it and you can't adjust much on that thing.
You don’t need to unplug the Castle. You can simply use the Bluetooth module and a smartphone app. Even easier than the program card. Hardest part is turning the ESC power off and back on to save the changes.
 
You don’t need to unplug the Castle. You can simply use the Bluetooth module and a smartphone app. Even easier than the program card. Hardest part is turning the ESC power off and back on to save the changes.
Yeah, for $50... for each truck and I don't think you can download log data from the mmx with it. I was going to get one for my savage flux hp until I found that out. I think you can get a bluetooth thing for some of the hobbywing esc's as well. But since you can just unplug the fan, plug in the box, adjust, plug the fan back in... isn't really worth it to me.

On my savage, I put a cable splitter outside the receiver box so I can at least unplug the thing without getting in the receiver box and removing the foam/balloon from my receiver. Not really a desirable scenario, but better than the alternative.
 
Yeah, for $50... for each truck and I don't think you can download log data from the mmx with it. I was going to get one for my savage flux hp until I found that out. I think you can get a bluetooth thing for some of the hobbywing esc's as well. But since you can just unplug the fan, plug in the box, adjust, plug the fan back in... isn't really worth it to me.

On my savage, I put a cable splitter outside the receiver box so I can at least unplug the thing without getting in the receiver box and removing the foam/balloon from my receiver. Not really a desirable scenario, but better than the alternative.
I’ve been considering doing short extensions for all my radio leads so I never have to open the radio boxes again. ??
 
You don’t need to unplug the Castle. You can simply use the Bluetooth module and a smartphone app. Even easier than the program card. Hardest part is turning the ESC power off and back on to save the changes.
Does the Bluetooth module fit inside the receiver box? I can't remember if it was waterproof. And isn't it like $50?
 
Does the Bluetooth module fit inside the receiver box? I can't remember if it was waterproof. And isn't it like $50?
I crammed it inside the 6S box. It’s a tight fit. And what’s $50 to you mr big spender
 
I’ve been considering doing short extensions for all my radio leads so I never have to open the radio boxes again. ??
I tried it once, it leaves 2 issues, you ha E to find someplace else to hide all the cables and they can come unplugged sometimes.
 
I tried it once, it leaves 2 issues, you ha E to find someplace else to hide all the cables and they can come unplugged sometimes.
That’s what shrink tubing is for. I would just bundle them and shrink it.
 
That’s what shrink tubing is for. I would just bundle them and shrink it.
Or, could seperate the wires and use a small ziptie. I think there are also servo connector clips you can use for a extension.

I used a splitter like these:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/150mm-compact-servo-y-lead-futaba-22awg-5pcs-bag.html

I ziptied it to the outside of the receiver box with the butt of the splitter facing forward. I figured if it's going to come apart, it would be on a lawn dart landing, so with it like that, the force just pushes the plug in harder. Unless I land on the rear... I used the other side of the splitter to run to the esc fan so it's always on, vs on when castle tells it to be. I have another splitter in there for the fans though as I now have a motor and esc fan plugged in.

Bit of a mess... but it does the job and allows me to download/change the esc settings without taking anything apart:
2020-0114-SavageFlux-ESCSide.jpg
 
Yeah I could probably fashion some sort of locking clip too. I figure zips could be effective too. I just hate opening the radio box.
 
Technically the stock esc is a Hobbywing so yes you have run a Hobbywing before lol.

The Castle 1800kv motor is only rated for 4s.

Unless you are doing speed runs you will never notice a difference between the Castle or the Hobbywing. Castle has much nicer software and has a lot more tunability than the Hobbywing.

A tech question here, by running the 1650kv motor, I don't understand how we get more power? If I was running the stock 2050kv at 6s compared to the HobbyWing 1650kv at 6s, I get more RPM with stock right? I mean I know the 1650kv will be geared slightly higher, but how is that going to improve performance significantly compared to stock? I am sure it does, I am just trying to understand this from a technical perspective. Still learning over here. Any input is welcome.
 
A tech question here, by running the 1650kv motor, I don't understand how we get more power? If I was running the stock 2050kv at 6s compared to the HobbyWing 1650kv at 6s, I get more RPM with stock right? I mean I know the 1650kv will be geared slightly higher, but how is that going to improve performance significantly compared to stock? I am sure it does, I am just trying to understand this from a technical perspective. Still learning over here. Any input is welcome.
The larger motor has more torque than the smaller one, more torque = more power.
 
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