Outcast/Kraton 4s BLX slipper clutch build-up/tuning

[Jerico]

Hey guys, new R/C'er here with a new Outcast 4s blx...

I've only ran one pack and broke a a-arm so out of business until I get a replacement. In the meantime, I took the slipper clutch out and didn't super pay attention when disassembling it. Not 100% sure how to put it back together and could use some help. The attached diagram appears to show that the big slotted washer goes between the 2 slipper disks on the backside, and the diagram only shows 3 slipper disks when in fact I have 4 (I'm assuming that 2 go on the front side...

If someone has had this same component appart and can help me, that would be much appreciated... Cheers!!

 

[jondilly1974]

Mine only came with 3 discs too? ??‍

 

[Jeremy in WI]

Hey guys, new R/C'er here with a new Outcast 4s blx...

I've only ran one pack and broke a a-arm so out of business until I get a replacement. In the meantime, I took the slipper clutch out and didn't super pay attention when disassembling it. Not 100% sure how to put it back together and could use some help. The attached diagram appears to show that the big slotted washer goes between the 2 slipper disks on the backside, and the diagram only shows 3 slipper disks when in fact I have 4 (I'm assuming that 2 go on the front side...

If someone has had this same component appart and can help me, that would be much appreciated... Cheers!!

It looks like you're viewing the 3s slipper, not the 4s. Here's the 4s -

https://www.arrma-rc.com/interactive-exploded-view/ARA102690

And a screenshot -

 

[Jerico]

thanks man!!... not sure how I ended up with the wrong diagram. Having a hard time with this slipper clutch actually. One time I set it and the car was doing rolling backflips, then I could barely pop wheelies!!.. Seems quite finicky. Is the consensus for setting it up fully in, then back a half-turn?? arrma says they set it 1 1/4 turns out but wasn't great out of the box..

Thanks

 

[Jeremy in WI]

thanks man!!... not sure how I ended up with the wrong diagram. Having a hard time with this slipper clutch actually. One time I set it and the car was doing rolling backflips, then I could barely pop wheelies!!.. Seems quite finicky. Is the consensus for setting it up fully in, then back a half-turn?? arrma says they set it 1 1/4 turns out but wasn't great out of the box..

Thanks

I run my 3s trucks at about 1/2 turn out with blue locktite on the screw. It seems 1/2 to 3/4 is the sweet spot. Some guys run full tight, but that'll transfer a good deal of strain to other parts, and I don't see the real advantage. It really comes down to personal preference and how you use the truck.

 

[Zlayer]

thanks man!!... not sure how I ended up with the wrong diagram. Having a hard time with this slipper clutch actually. One time I set it and the car was doing rolling backflips, then I could barely pop wheelies!!.. Seems quite finicky. Is the consensus for setting it up fully in, then back a half-turn?? arrma says they set it 1 1/4 turns out but wasn't great out of the box..

Thanks

Same here I took mine apart and cleaned all the disks with brake cleaner, put it together and it was wheelying great. But then the screw started backing out almost immediately. So took it apart again and used blue lock tight on the screw and set it to 1/2 or 3/4 turn (can’t remember) now I’ve ran it several times and it’s stayed tight.

 

[gatorgrim]

I have a Outcast 4s BLX and I had repeated issues with the slipper going loose. In frustration, I tightened it down too much and stripped my rear diff input gear and diff case on the landing of a big jump. I rebuilt the rear diff, but the slipper set screw stripped out soon after. I rebuilt the slipper and over tightened again after I set it too loose, and I stripped the rear diff on a rather small jump... again.

The morale of the story: I believe the composite diff cups are the weak point in the drive train and will definitely strip if there is no give in the slipper. Don't over tighten it!

Sincerely,

The guy waiting for parts to rebuild his rear diff for the 2nd time.

 

[jondilly1974]

I have a Outcast 4s BLX and I had repeated issues with the slipper going loose. In frustration, I tightened it down too much and stripped my rear diff input gear and diff case on the landing of a big jump. I rebuilt the rear diff, but the slipper set screw stripped out soon after. I rebuilt the slipper and over tightened again after I set it too loose, and I stripped the rear diff on a rather small jump... again.

The morale of the story: I believe the composite diff cups are the weak point in the drive train and will definitely strip if there is no give in the slipper. Don't over tighten it!

Sincerely,

The guy waiting for parts to rebuild his rear diff for the 2nd time.

Your input gear and diff cups weren’t damaged by a tight slipper, it was due to the composite yoke holding them together in perfect mesh. The plastic yokes will give enough to allow slip in the mesh, leading to damage. Upgrade to the HR aluminum yokes for a tighter and more consistent mesh.

 

[gatorgrim]

Your input gear and diff cups weren’t damaged by a tight slipper, it was due to the composite yoke holding them together in perfect mesh. The plastic yokes will give enough to allow slip in the mesh, leading to damage. Upgrade to the HR aluminum yokes for a tighter and more consistent mesh.

Jondilly,

Thank you very much Sir -- is this a common problem? It's frustrating that I have to rebuild this rear diff again. I'll look into the HR yokes. Thanks again.

 

[jondilly1974]

Jondilly,

Thank you very much Sir -- is this a common problem? It's frustrating that I have to rebuild this rear diff again. I'll look into the HR yokes. Thanks again.

I think I’ve now heard of this happening three times on the 4S vehicles. Don’t remember a 3S doing it, but it’s possible.