Outcast Outcast/ notorious year/ build revisions?

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Notorious
  3. Outcast 6s
Hi all. Im settling on finding a used outcast or notorious. Can anyone tell me what changes were made to v1,v2,v3? Also the year/ date they were made or sold? Thanks! Also how often do used ones show up on this site? Thanks!
 
Hi all. Im settling on finding a used outcast or notorious. Can anyone tell me what changes were made to v1,v2,v3? Also the year/ date they were made or sold? Thanks! Also how often do used ones show up on this site? Thanks!
I'm not sure about all the dates. Outcast has 3 models, the Notorious has 2. A V2 Outcast is the same and a V1 Notorious (except for the body). The big differences from V2 to V3 Outast and V1 to V2 Notorious are:

Center top brace
Adjustable motor mount
Never pop off rod ends/pivot balls
Never lose servo saver (the newer one doesn't adjust without adding shims)
Pillow ball retainer caps that have an o-ring that helps it from backing off
Old model comes with a Tactic Rx/Tx while the newer model comes with an STX2/3 Rx/TX

That's most of it, but I may have missed something. Other will chime in. To me the only really upgrade is the motor mount. The downgrade is the STX. Post up what you find and we can help you determine value. Good luck! ???
 
Ah so if i found two(one old and one new version) priced $100 different I'd still be better off getting the newer one as all of the upgrades would add up to be about the same?
 
Ah so if i found two(one old and one new version) priced $100 different I'd still be better off getting the newer one as all of the upgrades would add up to be about the same?
Roughly.

Some prefer the v2 servo saver as while it loosens on you if you don't locktite the bejebus out of it, it's also relatively easy to adjust.
The captured rod ends are nice as would be the PB caps with an o-ring.

I have the v2 outcast with many much upgrades. I did get the capture rod ends and I do like that. I also replaced the stock plastic chassis braces with alloy, M2C chassis and a fist full of other stuff. Most of which I would have done be it a v1, v2 or v3. The only thing I wouldn't have upgraded if it was a v3 was the ball ends.

I think the original v1 had a different battery box/tray. The v2+ all have the same one. I think @bicketybam posted a how to on how to upgrade that as well with flange nut/inserts, which I also did.
 
Ah so if i found two(one old and one new version) priced $100 different I'd still be better off getting the newer one as all of the upgrades would add up to be about the same?
You need to factor in the radio. You *have* to replace the new radio. The older version with the Tactic does not need to be replaced. The only upgrade you really need is the motor mount. The new servo saver blows. You can use e clips to keep the balls from popping out of the ends. The new pillow ball caps are not that great. Personally I'd go for the older version and use the $100 for the new motor mount and some metal chassis braces.
 
Roughly.

Some prefer the v2 servo saver as while it loosens on you if you don't locktite the bejebus out of it, it's also relatively easy to adjust.
The captured rod ends are nice as would be the PB caps with an o-ring.

I have the v2 outcast with many much upgrades. I did get the capture rod ends and I do like that. I also replaced the stock plastic chassis braces with alloy, M2C chassis and a fist full of other stuff. Most of which I would have done be it a v1, v2 or v3. The only thing I wouldn't have upgraded if it was a v3 was the ball ends.

I think the original v1 had a different battery box/tray. The v2+ all have the same one. I think @bicketybam posted a how to on how to upgrade that as well with flange nut/inserts, which I also did.

This is all good info? I planned on getting the M2C chassis as i plan to send it.
You need to factor in the radio. You *have* to replace the new radio. The older version with the Tactic does not need to be replaced. The only upgrade you really need is the motor mount. The new servo saver blows. You can use e clips to keep the balls from popping out of the ends. The new pillow ball caps are not that great. Personally I'd go for the older version and use the $100 for the new motor mount and some metal chassis braces.
Are there any replacement steering servo units that work better on the V2?
 
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Ds3225 sg the blue coreless one works great and only 30$
This is all good info? I planned on getting the M2C chassis as i plan to send it.

Are there any replacement steering servo units that work better on the V2?
 
Hot racing makes a clamp style servo saver that locks down
I have that one. While it works, it's a bit of a pain as you have to take the side guard off to tighten/loosen the screw. I guess that's better than welding the nut on with red loctite... blue gel loctite let go after a while. Didn't try plumbers tape though.
 
Hey guys what version is this and what would you pay? Grey body but no red center brace. I thought the v4 comes with a center brace? Comes with a 50c batt and passport ultra p2 charger.
 

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Hey guys what version is this and what would you pay? Grey body but no red center brace. I thought the v4 comes with a center brace? Comes with a 50c batt and passport ultra p2 charger.
That is not the latest model oh, that is why it has no Center brace. As for what it's worth, it looks all stock to me. And it's used. Personally I would pay no more than 250 bucks.
 
Trust me when I tell you this you do not want a V1 Outcast, the easiest way to tell if it is a V1 is the lack of shock cap protectors and the small rectangular rx box.
The not so easy to spot, are the weaker gearboxes, the sway bar holders, the shocks while looking the same are completely different, most notable the softer shorter springs and 3.5mm shafts, the front hubs and there is something else that I can't remember.
maxresdefault (1).jpg

$250 for all? Truck, batt and charger? Also is this the v1?
No that's a V2.
 
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Trust me when I tell you this you do not want a V1 Outcast, the easiest way to tell if it is a V1 is the lack of shock cap protectors and the small rectangular rx box.
View attachment 68892

No that's a V2.
Would you guys say this one is heavily used and would concider replacement pinion gear any electrical parts ? The guy says he bought this last April. Idk though looks older.
 
Would you guys say this one is heavily used and would concider replacement pinion gear any electrical parts ? The guy says he bought this last April. Idk though looks older.
It honestly doesn't look too bad just really really dirty and I don't see a bunch of rusty screw heads so that is a good sign.

It really annoys me when people try to sell their cars and don't even bother to clean them before they sell them. That truck would look a lot better if the dude even bothered to clean it.
 
It honestly doesn't look too bad just really really dirty and I don't see a bunch of rusty screw heads so that is a good sign.

It really annoys me when people try to sell their cars and don't even bother to clean them before they sell them. That truck would look a lot better if the dude even bothered to clean it.
Agreed. And to top that off he's askin $500 usd. Idk if the battery was properly maintained.

Just a bit of soap and water would help big time.
 
Agreed. And to top that off he's askin $500 usd. Idk if the battery was properly maintained.

Just a bit of soap and water would help big time.
$500 is too much, maybe if it was a V3. Including batteries and a charger I would not pay any more than $350.00 but start lower and work your way up. 1 it's all stock, 2 it's an older version and 3 it's dirty as all hell.

To be honest most of the time buying used rtrs is a crap shoot as you never know how the previous owner treated the vehicles and you will likely end up spending more money in the long run vs buying a new one. I've bought 6 used rcs over the years and all but 1 needed a complete rebuild, the 1 just needed a body mount thankfully I got them at such a steal i was able to dump money into them.
 
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Right on. I'll see what I can do. Seems like most of the local deals in that range go before I even check them out.
$500 is too much, maybe if it was a V3. Including batteries and a charger I would not pay any more than $350.00 but start lower and work your way up. 1 it's all stock, 2 it's an older version and 3 it's dirty as all hell.

To be honest most of the time buying used rtrs is a crap shoot as you never know how the previous owner treated the vehicles and you will likely end up spending more money in the long run vs buying a new one. I've bought 6 used rcs over the years and all but 1 needed a complete rebuild, the 1 just needed a body mount thankfully I got them at such a steal i was able to dump money into them.

Gotcha. That makes sense. I figured most would need bearings and gears. Honestly I don't know whats what. I will run stuff by you all and a close bud of mine local who is big into Arrma, traxxas and Losi
 
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Did some thinking and I noticed the body wear (under the chassis) doesn't match the underside of the chassis or mounds of dirt and water stains. I think he planned to pull a slick one on somebody. I think I'll stick to the $350, but may consider $370 if nothing else comes up in by next weekend.
 
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