Don't take anything apart until you have to as that can loosen things up in unexpected ways. Since it appears you have a 6s and not an exb I'd say you're probably fine leaving your diffs alone for now. It appears the shim issue is really a problem with the exb models, not the blx.
If you are going to bash thicken up the center diff fluid. Thicker center diff will mean more pore evenly transferred to the wheels. I put silicone ear plugs in my center diff (more or less locks the center diff) because I don't race, I send it whenever I can...it also helps lower tire ballooning if you're not in to strapping your tires. Speaking of, fill the holes on the plastic rim then vent your tires themselves instead. The holes being on the inside just seems to add water when they get wet but not release it whereas venting the tires allows all that crap to get out easier...and it helps tires not explode on hard landings from what I understand.
I also put the "speed" pinion that came with the kraton on, added a heatsync/fans, added the outcast wheelie bar, two rpm bumpers (front and back) and raise the front suspension a tiny bit to take some pressure off your shock ends. There is an adjustment screw for that on the lower A arm. From the factory mine was set to the exact length of the shock so I raised it about 2mm just so when I jump it's not slamming down on the shock end but doing so on the chassis
EDIT: also don't forget to check all your screws, bearings and joints every three or four run cycles, more often is preferable but I'd be lying if I said I checked mine every time
I had an issue with my right upper pillow ball being too loose but I checked everything after running it up and down my street as a shake down run. Good safe way to get the kinks out as it were
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