Granite Please help.. keep popping driveshafts but not in the common way.

[Jammer339]

OK this is doing my head now, this is the second weekend on the bounce this has happened. It is the front driveshafts , last week the left , this week the right..The slider part of the driveshaft keeps popping off the pins pictured in the first photo.. this is on the hub end . The ends its self are still attached to the stub axle through the hub and bearings and all that is left is the shaft coming out from the diff as pictured in the second photo.

Now I don't know if the plastic is breaking around the pins or if they just keep popping off. The slider part has completely disappeared and my bash area is too large of an area for me to find it and inspect the damage.

I have longer typhon arms installed , could this be the cause of the problem?

I just paid £18 for a pair of front driveshafts, and now have to buy another pair which obviously is going to get expensive. To top it off the loctited screw on the stub axle snapped off upon removal so I'm also going to have to buy a new set of these.

Any help and advice is appreciated. I really love this car , but I can't keep throwing money at it every week just to get 30 minutes usage out of it.

 

[gotnitro]

Put a couple pieces of heat shrink around the ears. Thats not that uncommon, used to happen to traxass DS's quite often.

 

[RCbuzz]

This actually is quite common

For me it was overextention causing the axle ends to rub/catch on the a-arm.

I added nitro silicon fuel tubing to the inside of the shocks to limit travel by about 2-3mm.

It has helped quite a bit.

 

[Jammer339]

This actually is quite common

For me it was overextention causing the axle ends to rub/catch on the a-arm.

I added nitro silicon fuel tubing to the inside of the shocks to limit travel by about 2-3mm.

It has helped quite a bit.

I have already done this to the shocks as a prevention , but it's still doing it

 

[Jammer339]

Put a couple pieces of heat shrink around the ears. Thats not that uncommon, used to happen to traxass DS's quite often.

Would that work? Heat shrink doesn't seem that strong with the torque that's going through shaft

 

[gotnitro]

Would that work? Heat shrink doesn't seem that strong with the torque that's going through shaft

So what happens is you’re on and off the throttle, banging those dog bones/drive shafts back-and-forth, in the air jumping, probably landing on throttle, every time you do that you are rounding out the holes in the ears. If you put a piece of shrink tube around the ears to hold the ears tighter together, less likely they will pop out, it will last a hell of a lot longer. I’ve done it.

Keep in mind, the metal piece is the only piece that is twisting. If you place a couple pieces of shrink around each ear set, you will keep it tight and less chance of it rounding out.

 

[Jammer339]

So what happens is you’re on and off the throttle, banging those dog bones/drive shafts back-and-forth, in the air jumping, probably landing on throttle, every time you do that you are rounding out the holes in the ears. If you put a piece of shrink tube around the ears to hold the ears tighter together, less likely they will pop out, it will last a hell of a lot longer. I’ve done it.

Keep in mind, the metal piece is the only piece that is twisting. If you place a couple pieces of shrink around each ear set, you will keep it tight and less chance of it rounding out.

OK thank you, I will give it a try. Failing that I think I may have to upgrade to cvd/aluminium set.

 

[gotnitro]

OK thank you, I will give it a try. Failing that I think I may have to upgrade to cvd/aluminium set.

I’ve even taken a few strands of wire and wrapped the ears tight, then used heat shrink.

 

[Jammer339]

I’ve even taken a few strands of wire and wrapped the ears tight, then used heat shrink.

Thats also a good shout.

 

[RCbuzz]

I bet if you found the "slider part" it would tell a story. I am seeing wear on the edges which tells me your hitting the A-arm and binding.

The cvd's I have hear are prone to snapping as well, if you are a hard basher they may not work well.

Could definitely be drive style and throttle on landing too.

 

[Jammer339]

I bet if you found the "slider part" it would tell a story. I am seeing wear on the edges which tells me your hitting the A-arm and binding.

The cvd's I have hear are prone to snapping as well, if you are a hard basher they may not work well.

Could definitely be drive style and throttle on landing too.

View attachment 279242

I wouldn't know where to begin looking for the sliders, it's somewhere in a grassy bmx track. I drive it hard at times, never to the extend of kevin talbot though.
I read that most of the problems usually come from the rear driveshafts.. not the front. Obviously it's the other way round for me.
When I ordered both sets last week I noticed they were different part numbers. Are the rears longer than the front ones or visa versa?
Is it worth trying the rear ones on the front?
Do the wider arms play a part ?
Sorry for all the questions

 

[Velodromed]

The drive shafts are fronts and rears specific. I don’t know the difference or worry about it though. Have you increased your diff fluid yet? 30k front and 20k rear works very well with evening out power to the wheels. Loosen the slipper because it’s to tight, then loosen another 1/4-1/2 turn until your driving technique improves. The length of the arms isn’t the issue. The upgraded 3s CVDs are good except for the axle, it’s sintered metal and I’ve had 3 snap on me. The stock ones are fine one you learn limitations and all

Along with setup, you really need to work on driving technique and go much easier on the throttle. With jumps of any size take care to not hit the throttle or brake while landing. When going from soft to hard traction surfaces, ease up the throttle for that instant between. Wheelies are fun but hard on the drivetrain so I get the car moving a bit before hitting the throttle.

You may want to check for ‘parts breakers’ in you area for cheaper prices. I’ve heard from others outside the US that it’s worth paying shipping and fees considering how good stock parts are priced here jennysrc.com. It is where I get most of my stock parts. Good luck bud.

 

[Jammer339]

The drive shafts are fronts and rears specific. I don’t know the difference or worry about it though. Have you increased your diff fluid yet? 30k front and 20k rear works very well with evening out power to the wheels. Loosen the slipper because it’s to tight, then loosen another 1/4-1/2 turn until your driving technique improves. The length of the arms isn’t the issue. The upgraded 3s CVDs are good except for the axle, it’s sintered metal and I’ve had 3 snap on me. The stock ones are fine one you learn limitations and all

Along with setup, you really need to work on driving technique and go much easier on the throttle. With jumps of any size take care to not hit the throttle or brake while landing. When going from soft to hard traction surfaces, ease up the throttle for that instant between. Wheelies are fun but hard on the drivetrain so I get the car moving a bit before hitting the throttle.

You may want to check for ‘parts breakers’ in you area for cheaper prices. I’ve heard from others outside the US that it’s worth paying shipping and fees considering how good stock parts are priced here jennysrc.com. It is where I get most of my stock parts. Good luck bud.

Diff fluid was my next job, I was thinking 20 in the front and 15 in the rear, I've read that a heavy fluid can cause issues for steering under power? I am happy to take your recommendation though?

I don't land jumps under throttle, maybe occasionally but I think I'm pretty controlled most of the time.

I see so much controversy regarding how tight the slipper should be .. I had the Allen wrench in there , backed it off then rolled the car forward until the wheels locked up.

Parts here in the UK are usually more expensive due to most of it being imported from the US . The taxes to import from you guys is quite high.

Could I run the cvd shafts with the stock axles ?

 

[Velodromed]

15 rear 20 front should also work, your car being all stock. I like it a little bit heavier, 8-12 more, in the front as it eases diffing out, so I’d do 15/25. The biggest issue with steering these things are the way they’re designed and the way they’re driven. They seem to ‘push’ more than steer. The front does not have as much ground contact/traction as the back while under throttle. I have learned to quickly let off the throttle or even a quick blip on the brakes for sharper turning.

Everybody has their way to adjust a slipper. I don’t like the methods where it’s tightened up all the way, like you described. The inner hub can weaken then strip and the inside brass ring can pop off. I go by feel and how it sounds under acceleration. On my cars with stock drive trains I tend to leave it a bit loose. That really helps with popping drive shafts.

I also remove the inner race from an old spur hub bearing and slide it over the back part of the spur hub, where it clicks into the differential. Helps stop the hub from cracking overtime. They have a part for that now, but I prefer how I’ve always done it.

No the CVDs are all their own parts, can’t mix them. Yes I’ve heard about the prices there, that’s pretty rough.

 

[chilly81]

Now I don't know if the plastic is breaking around the pins or if they just keep popping off. The slider part has completely disappeared and my bash area is too large of an area for me to find it and inspect the damage.

I have longer typhon arms installed , could this be the cause of the problem?

I just paid £18 for a pair of front driveshafts, and now have to buy another pair which obviously is going to get expensive. To top it off the loctited screw on the stub axle snapped off upon removal so I'm also going to have to buy a new set of these.

Any help and advice is appreciated. I really love this car , but I can't keep throwing money at it every week just to get 30 minutes usage out of it.

Yeah that's how my stock ones break. Once you 'upgrade' to the cvd's, then they fail at the axle or the slider itself explodes. It's not a matter of if 3S driveshafts will break, it's a matter of when and where. The only answer is to make sure you are being nice to it (not landing on throttle) and loosen the slipper until it's not as fast as you want it to be anymore .
If you can't tell, I've been struggling with coming up with an acceptable solution for this myself too - so far nothing I'm satisfied with.

 

[RCbuzz]

A downside of the 3s line for sure but this rc has been running nicely lately. Notice how much I lowered the stance and see the clearance on the axle. Truck also tips over "less".

For the slipper I carefully tighten the screw all the way and back it out. The last one I did a half turn, then used the center driveshaft to "test" the slipping action. It was pretty good.

I have not stripped a thread out yet but who knows I might be next.

 

[Velodromed]

Notice how much I lowered the stance and see the clearance on the axle.

yup. Late last year I started setting up my 3s suspension like I do my 4s and 6s cars, with the arms level to the ground, battery loaded and body on. It’s easier on the driveshafts and handles so much better, with less traction rolling and so forth. I do run 6s shocks though. Never really liked the stock shocks.

 

[Jammer339]

yup. Late last year I started setting up my 3s suspension like I do my 4s and 6s cars, with the arms level to the ground, battery loaded and body on. It’s easier on the driveshafts and handles so much better, with less traction rolling and so forth. I do run 6s shocks though. Never really liked the stock shocks.

Since I put the Typhon arms I can't get the Granite to go in a straight line. I've set the rears to toe in , and set the camber to toe out on the front , should I set the camber straight and adjust the steering to toe out instead ?

 

[Warby]

Put a couple pieces of heat shrink around the ears. Thats not that uncommon, used to happen to traxass DS's quite often.

+1
This works.

 

[Velodromed]

Since I put the Typhon arms I can't get the Granite to go in a straight line. I've set the rears to toe in , and set the camber to toe out on the front , should I set the camber straight and adjust the steering to toe out instead ?

Camber as how the wheel sits vertically and toe is how they sit… horizontally? Not sure of the exact term. But set them separately to start off with, make sure the links are the same size for both sides, then make adjustments as needed. I’m probably not explaining things well. Tired and really stuffed up this morning.

The rear toe in is pre-set by the way the chassis is made. I like my front wheels to toe out a little bit on short wheelbase and a little bit more on long wheelbase cars. I prefer camber to be pretty much straight up and down, maybe very slightly outward up front.

Double check all of your links to make sure you set them correctly. It may take a good bit of fiddling around to figure it out. But once you learn how it’ll stick with you for the next time.