Granite Please help.. keep popping driveshafts but not in the common way.

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Camber as how the wheel sits vertically and toe is how they sit… horizontally? Not sure of the exact term. But set them separately to start off with, make sure the links are the same size for both sides, then make adjustments as needed. I’m probably not explaining things well. Tired and really stuffed up this morning.

The rear toe in is pre-set by the way the chassis is made. I like my front wheels to toe out a little bit on short wheelbase and a little bit more on long wheelbase cars. I prefer camber to be pretty much straight up and down, maybe very slightly outward up front.

Double check all of your links to make sure you set them correctly. It may take a good bit of fiddling around to figure it out. But once you learn how it’ll stick with you for the next time.
Toe and camber are the correct terms.
Before driving trucks I was a mechanic by trade.
I've been playing with the set up quite a bit. I have got some composite typhon links which don't have turnbuckles, so I can imagine they will be preset to what they should be with the longer arms.

I may install them on the camber for front and rear and adjust the steering alignment . Currently my front wheels are quite extremely cambered which is where I think the problem is coming from.
 
Since I put the Typhon arms I can't get the Granite to go in a straight line. I've set the rears to toe in , and set the camber to toe out on the front , should I set the camber straight and adjust the steering to toe out instead ?
Up front you'd want -2 camber, all the + castor you can dial in and -2 toe out. It will track straight with those settings.
Rear +2 toe, -2 camber. These settings would be for off road.
 
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Up front you'd want -2 camber, all the + castor you can dial in and -2 toe out. It will track straight with those settings.
Rear -2 toe, -2 camber. These settings would be for off road.
What would you recommend to measure this ? I've been doing it by eye , drive it then adjust again.
 
What would you recommend to measure this ? I've been doing it by eye , drive it then adjust again.
If yer gunna be a RC'er, I'd highly recommend looking into a HUDY set up station or stations. (y) They are not cheap for the amount of time used but they dial in perfectly.

If you don't want to spend that much, you can find camber/castor/toe plastic gauges. I believe RPM makes some.
 
If yer gunna be a RC'er, I'd highly recommend looking into a HUDY set up station or stations. (y) They are not cheap for the amount of time used but they dial in perfectly.

If you don't want to spend that much, you can find camber/castor/toe plastic gauges. I believe RPM makes some.
OK thanks I'll look into it
 
Hey everyone. Has anyone had experience with installing the gpm driveshafts ? So far I've encountered 3 problems.

1) how the hell do you press the wheel bearing onto the hub side ? I've tried two pairs of pliers on either side of the bearing but it won't even catch on top , let alone press in.
2) there's no hole on the axle to put in the pin for the wheel hex nut.
3) the diff end is just a circular hole and doesn't fit the splined cupling coming from the diff that the original driveshaft screwed into.
Is there any extra parts I need?

Thanks in advance ?
 
Hey everyone. Has anyone had experience with installing the gpm driveshafts ? So far I've encountered 3 problems.

1) how the hell do you press the wheel bearing onto the hub side ? I've tried two pairs of pliers on either side of the bearing but it won't even catch on top , let alone press in.
2) there's no hole on the axle to put in the pin for the wheel hex nut.
3) the diff end is just a circular hole and doesn't fit the splined cupling coming from the diff that the original driveshaft screwed into.
Is there any extra parts I need?

Thanks in advance ?
For tight press fit bearings like in a nitro mill, I used to freeze the bearings and heat up the block with a heat gun. This method works with other pressed bearing fitment too like in tight carriers. As for the rest, can’t help, never owned them.
 
Hey everyone. Has anyone had experience with installing the gpm driveshafts ? So far I've encountered 3 problems.

1) how the hell do you press the wheel bearing onto the hub side ? I've tried two pairs of pliers on either side of the bearing but it won't even catch on top , let alone press in.
2) there's no hole on the axle to put in the pin for the wheel hex nut.
3) the diff end is just a circular hole and doesn't fit the splined cupling coming from the diff that the original driveshaft screwed into.
Is there any extra parts I need?

Thanks in advance ?

OK so after inspection of the other shaft , I have been sent 2 completely different shafts .
1 is correct and the other 1 certainly isn't for an arrma 3s.

20230225_173046.jpg


20230225_173059.jpg


20230225_173123.jpg
 
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