Senton Project Senton 3s, Finally Ordered!

[RJUK]

No, if it can damage to other parts then I'll swap out as many as I can.

Time to find some fluid by the sounds of it. Do I need any special tools for doing the ones in the diff or slipper?

I guess I may have to watch the video again. I can't remember which ones he showed and which he didn't.

 

[jondilly1974]

No, if it can do sage to other parts then I'll swap out as many as I can.

Time to find some fluid by the sounds of it. Do I need any special tools for doing the ones in the diff or slipper?

I guess I may have to watch the video again. I can't remember which ones he showed and which he didn't.

I would want a quality 2mm hex driver. Even better, a quality 2mm speed bit with a decent electric driver with a clutch. There are also 2.5mm bolts, but to be honest, the larger the tip, the less likely it will strip. If you can afford both in a high quality tool, then go for it. 2mm and 2.5mm are the two you will be using all the time on any 3S or 4S rig.

Also, make sure you have a long 2mm driver or bit to get into the diffs. The inner section of the driveshafts are a hard to reach screw if you don’t have a long tool. There’s a joke in here somewhere, but I’m resisting. You need a 2mm driver long enough to reach thru the driveshaft core all the way to the diff output. It’s a hollow shaft and there is a captive 2mm screw holding it on with blue TL.

 

[RJUK]

I would want a quality 2mm hex driver. Even better, a quality 2mm speed bit with a decent electric driver with a clutch. There are also 2.5mm bolts, but to be honest, the larger the tip, the less likely it will strip. If you can afford both in a high quality tool, then go for it. 2mm and 2.5mm are the two you will be using all the time on any 3S or 4S rig.

Also, make sure you have a long 2mm driver or bit to get into the diffs. The inner section of the driveshafts are a hard to reach screw if you don’t have a long tool. There’s a joke in here somewhere, but I’m resisting. You need a 2mm driver long enough to reach thru the driveshaft core all the way to the diff output. It’s a hollow shaft and there is a captive 2mm screw holding it on with blue TL.

Funny enough, I'm a bit of a tool addict and after watching that video linked earlier I've ordered that Metabo/Hikoki electric driver this morning and some long hex bits last night. I also have some manual hex drivers that I bought a week or two back that should be long enough for the drive shafts.

Hopefully once I get into it everything is easier than it seems. Last weekend I tried soldering new terminals on my batteries and I must've made just about every mistake in the book. I got there in the end, but despite knowing all the pitfalls in advance I still managed to make the most stupid mistakes and was sat there berating myself for being such an idiot at times.

I hope taking the truck apart goes more smoothly.

 

[jondilly1974]

Funny enough, I'm a bit of a tool addict and after watching that video linked earlier I've ordered that Metabo/Hikoki electric driver this morning and some long hex bits last night. I also have some manual hex drivers that I bought a week or two back that should be long enough for the drive shafts.

Hopefully once I get into it everything is easier than it seems. Last weekend I tried soldering new terminals on my batteries and I must've made just about every mistake in the book. I got there in the end, but despite knowing all the pitfalls in advance I still managed to make the most stupid mistakes and was sat there berating myself for being such an idiot at times.

I hope taking the truck apart goes more smoothly.

I think the driveshafts are the hardest part if you don’t have any direction. Once you remove the diffs and shafts from the diff housing, hold one of the shafts firmly in your non dominant hand by making a fist around it to get a good grip. Use the other hand to put the 2mm driver up the hollow center. Get the tip engaged well with the screw head and give her a good push as you turn to keep the head seated. It will snap the blue TL and come free. The screw is captive and won’t come out of the shaft. Repeat for the other side.

Another point of contention is deciding how tight to screw the yokes back together. I would spend a few minutes inspecting the factory assembly here to get a feel for what it should be like when you reassemble. You don’t need these super tight, just snug. The towers will also hold the yokes together, so these screws are not the only thing holding the diff in place.

Lastly, when done cleaning out the diffs, make sure they are clean and dry before assembly. Put the four shafts in their holes BEFORE adding diff fluid. They don’t like to go back into the holes if there’s anything in them. I like to dry fit everything first, then if it all fits well move ahead. If everything dry fits well, then add enough fluid to fill the cup half way. Then start sliding in the satellite gears and check fill level. You want the cup pretty full at this point, but leaving a little space for the sun gear in the cover. I like to spin the bottom output shaft as I go to release any bubbles.

These trucks are really a breeze to work on. What I posted above is just how I do it. It’s not a gold standard or anything. If you find something to add after doing yours, let us know ??

 

[RJUK]

I think the driveshafts are the hardest part if you don’t have any direction. Once you remove the diffs and shafts from the diff housing, hold one of the shafts firmly in your non dominant hand by making a fist around it to get a good grip. Use the other hand to put the 2mm driver up the hollow center. Get the tip engaged well with the screw head and give her a good push as you turn to keep the head seated. It will snap the blue TL and come free. The screw is captive and won’t come out of the shaft. Repeat for the other side.

Another point of contention is deciding how tight to screw the yokes back together. I would spend a few minutes inspecting the factory assembly here to get a feel for what it should be like when you reassemble. You don’t need these super tight, just snug. The towers will also hold the yokes together, so these screws are not the only thing holding the diff in place.

Lastly, when done cleaning out the diffs, make sure they are clean and dry before assembly. Put the four shafts in their holes BEFORE adding diff fluid. They don’t like to go back into the holes if there’s anything in them. I like to dry fit everything first, then if it all fits well move ahead. If everything dry fits well, then add enough fluid to fill the cup half way. Then start sliding in the satellite gears and check fill level. You want the cup pretty full at this point, but leaving a little space for the sun gear in the cover. I like to spin the bottom output shaft as I go to release any bubbles.

These trucks are really a breeze to work on. What I posted above is just how I do it. It’s not a gold standard or anything. If you find something to add after doing yours, let us know ??

Will do. I have to be honest, reading all this is just alien to me at the moment, but I figure once I get it all in front of me it'll all click into place what everything is and what you mean with regards to everything. At the moment I can't picture in my head how it all fits together or how the diffs are filled or anything.

I mean, I've changed the transmission and fluids on the manual trans and LSD on my real-life car a few times, (and the flippin' things didn't even have drain plugs) so this ought to be easier, right?!

 

[jondilly1974]

Will do. I have to be honest, reading all this is just alien to me at the moment, but I figure once I get it all in front of me it'll all click into place what everything is and what you mean with regards to everything. At the moment I can't picture in my head how it all fits together or how the diffs are filled or anything.

I mean, I've changed the transmission and fluids on the manual trans and LSD on my real-life car a few times, (and the flippin' things didn't even have drain plugs) so this ought to be easier, right?!

I’ve never done any 1:1 trans or diff work so my guess is this is way easier. I am not a mechanically inclined person. I’m a tech guy. But this stuff is pretty easy after knowing what I wrote above. You do this a few times and it will be second nature. Super easy stuff.

 

[RJUK]

Did you find the four small ones in the steering bellcrank?

With this I'm assuming you mean the ones that replace the bushings?

I’ve never done any 1:1 trans or diff work so my guess is this is way easier. I am not a mechanically inclined person. I’m a tech guy. But this stuff is pretty easy after knowing what I wrote above. You do this a few times and it will be second nature. Super easy stuff.

Good to know!

At least I can do it inside, rather than led on my back on a cold driveway!

 

[jondilly1974]

With this I'm assuming you mean the ones that replace the bushings?

Good to know!

At least I can do it inside, rather than led on my back on a cold driveway!

Yes the steering bellcrank has four bushings.

 

[RJUK]

Looking at shock and diff oils, is 60ml enough to keep me going for a while, or is it worth ordering a couple of bottles of each to save on paying multiple lots of postage?

And is Core RC a decent brand?

 

[jondilly1974]

Looking at shock and diff oils, is 60ml enough to keep me going for a while, or is it worth ordering a couple of bottles of each to save on paying multiple lots of postage?

And is Core RC a decent brand?

That’s a standard sized bottle. It will do four shocks or three diffs. I usually tend to buy a bunch if I know for sure I will use it.

 

[RJUK]

Ok, so tonight I finally got around to start working on the Senton. I replaced the servo with a 20kg one and the radio with the DumboRC one that a lot of people mention.

I also used the Kembrough servo saver recommended on here, but noticed that the screw that attaches it to the steering arm is much smaller than the one that connects the stock Arena servo.

What do people tend to do when they use the Kembrough servo saver? Drill a bigger hole in the servo saver to use the stock screw or just use the smaller screw? I've used the smaller screw for now.

Seems fine, though it makes a more strained noise at the extremes of the steering travel. Not sure if it's a normal noise or not because I've not yet used the truck in stock form.

I'll take a video tomorrow and post it up.

For now, here's a pic of where I'm at, though there's not much to show.

 

[jondilly1974]

Ok, so tonight I finally got around to start working on the Senton. I replaced the servo with a 20kg one and the radio with the DumboRC one that a lot of people mention.

I also used the Kembrough servo saver recommended on here, but noticed that the screw that attaches it to the steering arm is much smaller than the one that connects the stock Arena servo.

What do people tend to do when they use the Kembrough servo saver? Drill a bigger hole in the servo saver to use the stock screw or just use the smaller screw? I've used the smaller screw for now.

Seems fine, though it makes a more strained noise at the extremes of the steering travel. Not sure if it's a normal noise or not because I've not yet used the truck in stock form.

I'll take a video tomorrow and post it up.

For now, here's a pic of where I'm at, though there's not much to show.

You just need to set your steering end points. There should be a steering trim dial that you need to turn down.

 

[RJUK]

You just need to set your steering end points. There should be a steering trim dial that you need to turn down.

How do you know where to set them though? The handset has a 0 - 100 limiter, but it makes the noise at anything above around 50% I reckon. I don't know that it's harming anything above 50%?

Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. I'm here to learn!

 

[jondilly1974]

How do you know where to set them though? The handset has a 0 - 100 limiter, but it makes the noise at anything above around 50% I reckon. I don't know that it's harming anything above 50%?

Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. I'm here to learn!

Yes then set them to 50% if that is all you need. Turn the transmitter trim all the way down and turn the wheel full stop one way (right or left) and then turn the limiter up until you see it no longer move the tires. When it stops or makes a straining noise, that’s the full stop. If it’s 25% then that’s all you need. If it’s 75% then that’s it. Don’t get caught up in the number. It is what it is. Mine are usually around 50-70%.

 

[RJUK]

Yes then set them to 50% if that is all you need. Turn the transmitter trim all the way down and turn the wheel full stop one way (right or left) and then turn the limiter up until you see it no longer move the tires. When it stops or makes a straining noise, that’s the full stop. If it’s 25% then that’s all you need. If it’s 75% then that’s it. Don’t get caught up in the number. It is what it is. Mine are usually around 50-70%.

Great stuff. I really appreciate your help.

 

[RJUK]

OK, so I've spent all evening messing around with the bearings and fitting some Tbone bumpers and skid plate and I'm left with the below.

The only thing is that I'm also left with 4 bearings from the Fast Eddy kit for the Senton 3s BLX.

I replaced the 8 in the hubs, the 4 that replace the steering bushes, the 4 in each diff, the big central driveshaft bearing and the two bearings in the pinion housing.

I didn't open the diffs to the point where I got to any diff fluid coming out, so I guess perhaps that could account for the two smallest bearings in the pic below (one in each diff), but what about the other two bearings? One has a flange/washer attached to the back of it.

Thanks!

 

[jondilly1974]

OK, so I've spent all evening messing around with the bearings and fitting some Tbone bumpers and skid plate and I'm left with the below.

The only thing is that I'm also left with 4 bearings from the Fast Eddy kit for the Senton 3s BLX.

I replaced the 8 in the hubs, the 4 that replace the steering bushes, the 4 in each diff, the big central driveshaft bearing and the two bearings in the pinion housing.

I didn't open the diffs to the point where I got to any diff fluid coming out, so I guess perhaps that could account for the two smallest bearings in the pic below (one in each diff), but what about the other two bearings? One has a flange/washer attached to the back of it.

Thanks!

The larger go in the slipper and the center driveshaft support. The smaller are inner diff bearings that can wait until you clean your diffs.

 

[RJUK]

I already did the center drive shaft support, so I'm still one short!

How do I access the slipper one? Is that the one with the washer attached?

 

[jondilly1974]

I already did the center drive shaft support, so I'm still one short!

How do I access the slipper one? Is that the one with the washer attached?

Yes I believe the flanged one is the middle of the slipper. Did you do the other two in the power module holding the slipper in place?

 

[RJUK]

Yes I believe the flanged one is the middle of the slipper. Did you do the other two in the power module holding the slipper in place?

Yes, I did the other two in the power module (as they are shown in the YouTube video showing how to replace all the bearings) but I saw no others in there. Where is the flanged bearing located, and (sorry to be stupid) but which part is the slipper? I saw a video where somebody put an Allen key into the centre part after removing the driveshaft to adjust the tightness of the slipper, so is it that big gear that meshes to the pinion? Presumably inside that big gear is a clutch type mechanism then?