Notorious Quality hyped

[Jmpen]

Hey all 1st post. I've been out of the game for awhile and got the itch again. I came home from lhs with a new notorious! While this thing rips, 2 sessions and I already broke an a arm,wing mount and today a lower shock eye. The a arm was on me as I nicked a rock and replaced with all rpm. The shock eye and wing mount were both on low speed tumbles. Maybe I drank too much koolaid during my selection reviews but I expected a bit more durability. Has there been a quality drop off in the latest arrma releases?

 

[2015GTRBE]

Hey all 1st post. I've been out of the game for awhile and got the itch again. I came home from lhs with a new notorious! While this thing rips, 2 sessions and I already broke an a arm,wing mount and today a lower shock eye. The a arm was on me as I nicked a rock and replaced with all rpm. The shock eye and wing mount were both on low speed tumbles. Maybe I drank too much koolaid during my selection reviews but I expected a bit more durability. Has there been a quality drop off in the latest arrma releases?

no.... but the hype machine is real. The wing mount is a regrettable design, and most of us switch the shock eyelets for Tekno or Arrma Nero ones.

 

[r4nd0m]

no.... but the hype machine is real. The wing mount is a regrettable design, and most of us switch the shock eyelets for Tekno or Arrma Nero ones.

Arent the AR330338 already on the V4/2019 model?

 

[Jmpen]

Not sure but it broke at the start of the threads, closest to eye. The a arm broke where the over travel grub screw goes and the wing arm broke mid point between wing and body. Forgot I bent the front red plate that holds arm pins in. For a thicker piece of aluminum it wasn't very stout. Can't wait to get all the weak links sorted because this thing is a blast.

 

[2015GTRBE]

Not sure but it broke at the start of the threads, closest to eye. The a arm broke where the over travel grub screw goes and the wing arm broke mid point between wing and body. Forgot I bent the front red plate that holds arm pins in. For a thicker piece of aluminum it wasn't very stout. Can't wait to get all the weak links sorted because this thing is a blast.

must have been quite a tumble... there is only so much an RC can take.

 

[Hammer Down]

Not sure but it broke at the start of the threads, closest to eye. The a arm broke where the over travel grub screw goes and the wing arm broke mid point between wing and body. Forgot I bent the front red plate that holds arm pins in. For a thicker piece of aluminum it wasn't very stout. Can't wait to get all the weak links sorted because this thing is a blast.

I’ve sorted out most all of the weak points (pretty much bomb proof) but I keep breaking shock ends too, usually at the end of the treads also...
I’ve tried every kind that will work on the 6s models, it’s more than likely just bad landings!
Apparently shock rod ends are my Kryptonite ?

 

[arrmadillo]

Every RC will break, don't take much depending on the situation. Wing mount is weak factory part and eyelets also. Upgrades are available but can happen again, nature of the beast.

 

[Hammer Down]

Breakage will decrease as your driving improves. ?

 

[olds97_lss]

Got my outcast July 2018. I'm on my 5th or 6th wing mount (3-4 stock, 2-3 RPM, current is a boiled RPM that's been holding up for a while), have broken 3 RPM rear arms, 5 differentials, both chassis braces, 2 sets of shock towers (now titanium), one stock chassis (now M2C), 2 ackerman bars (also now titanium), many shock ends (now tekno), a few tie rod ends (now capture v4 ends) and probably a few other things.

Some broke inexplicably easy. Some lived through some unbelievably rough landings. Just the luck of the draw when driving a 15lb object that flirts with 50mph... especially if your a crappy driver like me!

 

[Custnam]

Can someone share the part numbers of the Tekno shock ends? Thanks

 

[r4nd0m]

Got my outcast July 2018. I'm on my 5th or 6th wing mount (3-4 stock, 2-3 RPM, current is a boiled RPM that's been holding up for a while), have broken 3 RPM rear arms, 5 differentials, both chassis braces, 2 sets of shock towers (now titanium), one stock chassis (now M2C), 2 ackerman bars (also now titanium), many shock ends (now tekno), a few tie rod ends (now capture v4 ends) and probably a few other things.

Some broke inexplicably easy. Some lived through some unbelievably rough landings. Just the luck of the draw when driving a 15lb object that flirts with 50mph... especially if your a crappy driver like me!

I got a bit further than @Custnam - can you share links or part# of the upgraded parts you have chosen?

I for myself if I get another Arrma will check the entire model over before running it my Granite had tyre slop due to the wheel nuts not being fastened, Granite and Notorious had a slipping pinion due to absence of loctite, Notorious ESC was set incorrectly RTR probably means ready to review

 

[Hammer Down]

Can someone share the part numbers of the Tekno shock ends? Thanks

I just happened to get more in the mail today...
as I break them on the regular! ?

 

[olds97_lss]

I recently started using orange loctite on stuff that blue gel loctite doesn't hold. Like pinions, alloy diff cup screws, servo saver nut, etc:
Orange: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6B87S5
Blue: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM564

The blue works well on wheel nuts.

M2C chassis: https://m2cracing.net/arrma/59-m2c3005-arrma-goliath-outcasttyphonsentnotor-6s-blx-.html
HR Chassis braces (better to get M2C probably):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAFWYOO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HY1PXNL

Titanium towers from this seller: https://www.ebay.com/usr/1fpvshop
Probably better off going with M2C 7075 or Scorched Parts titanium if you can find them.

RPM arms:
Need 2: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81482-Kraton-Talion-Outcast/dp/B06ZY1D68W
Need 1: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81402-Kraton-Talion-Outcast/dp/B0728JS723

RPM front bumper/skid: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81472-Bumper-Kraton-Durango/dp/B06XK72XSH
Buy the M2C skid plate and longer screws to go over it or it tends to rip the screw heads through it.

RPM wing mount: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81642-Mounts-Arrma-Durango/dp/B01CQ2PCPC
Boil it for 20 minutes then let it air cool. Seems to last longer. Do the same with the arms if you wish.

Hobbywing motor cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Hobbywing-Cooling-System-86080130-funshobby/dp/B00792P9WG

Armor Werks servo mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYLNMMC

T-Bone rear skid/wheelie bar: https://tboneracing.net/collections/arrma/products/10061-tbr-rear-bumper-with-wheelie-arrma-outcast

Savox 1210SG servo: https://www.amazon.com/Savox-Aluminum-Waterproof-Coreless-Digital/dp/B00EENOCDU
My stock servo didn't make it through it's first turn before dying. Literally. Died in my parking lot the night I got it. I drove to the end of the lot and it wouldn't turn around.

Tekno ends and balls (TKR6140B TKR5049A):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUEBGF7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVNIG86

Appears I most recently bought TKR6140C... hm...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VPKH5NV
Don't know if they work or not... I didn't even pay attention. I just tapped them to 4mm and put them in my field parts box for future use.

Unbreakable body: https://www.ebay.com/itm/unbreakable-rc-body-for-monster-Arrma-Outcast-Nero-Fazon-1-8/202631043945
First one lasted a year... with lots of rivets and plastic bits band-aid'ing it together. I put this one on 3 months ago and it's holding up well so far.

I run proline trencher 3.8 tires/wheels that are wrapped with kevlar cord. It did fine for a full 6200mah pack (roughly 22 minutes) at the grass bmx track I bash at without overheating if I geared to 13T.

I just installed a max6 in hopes that I can go up to 14T and still make it through a set of packs without overheating. Also allows me to crank up the V on the BEC for the servo. I'm still sticking with the stock motor until it dies or gives me issues as it seems to work well. I put ceramic hybrid bearings in it recently as I hadn't had the motor open in the 18 months I've had it. Figured it was time. I run at skate parks and in grass 99% of the time. Very rare that my trucks see actual dirt.

I run 2x3S packs in it as I have 2 other 6S trucks that use saddle type battery compartments (ERBEv2, savage flux HP), so instead of having special packs for those and then for the outcast, I just make sure the ones I buy fit in all 3 and I label the packs, then always always run them in the same pairs. I try to switch the plug on the esc when I use them so they alternate each time I run them. I use HRB5000mah 50C 3S and Hobbystar 6200mah 50C 3S packs.

I think that covers most of it... aside from the arrma alloy cups in the diffs... but those have been more of a problem than a solution.

In all her glory:

 

[Hammer Down]

I recently started using orange loctite on stuff that blue gel loctite doesn't hold. Like pinions, alloy diff cup screws, servo saver nut, etc:
Orange: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6B87S5
Blue: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM564

The blue works well on wheel nuts.

M2C chassis: https://m2cracing.net/arrma/59-m2c3005-arrma-goliath-outcasttyphonsentnotor-6s-blx-.html
HR Chassis braces (better to get M2C probably):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAFWYOO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HY1PXNL

Titanium towers from this seller: https://www.ebay.com/usr/1fpvshop
Probably better off going with M2C 7075 or Scorched Parts titanium if you can find them.

RPM arms:
Need 2: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81482-Kraton-Talion-Outcast/dp/B06ZY1D68W
Need 1: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81402-Kraton-Talion-Outcast/dp/B0728JS723

RPM front bumper/skid: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81472-Bumper-Kraton-Durango/dp/B06XK72XSH
Buy the M2C skid plate and longer screws to go over it or it tends to rip the screw heads through it.

RPM wing mount: https://www.amazon.com/RPM-81642-Mounts-Arrma-Durango/dp/B01CQ2PCPC
Boil it for 20 minutes then let it air cool. Seems to last longer. Do the same with the arms if you wish.

Hobbywing motor cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Hobbywing-Cooling-System-86080130-funshobby/dp/B00792P9WG

Armor Werks servo mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYLNMMC

T-Bone rear skid/wheelie bar: https://tboneracing.net/collections/arrma/products/10061-tbr-rear-bumper-with-wheelie-arrma-outcast

Savox 1210SG servo: https://www.amazon.com/Savox-Aluminum-Waterproof-Coreless-Digital/dp/B00EENOCDU
My stock servo didn't make it through it's first turn before dying. Literally. Died in my parking lot the night I got it. I drove to the end of the lot and it wouldn't turn around.

Tekno ends and balls (TKR6140B TKR5049A):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUEBGF7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVNIG86

Appears I most recently bought TKR6140C... hm...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VPKH5NV
Don't know if they work or not... I didn't even pay attention. I just tapped them to 4mm and put them in my field parts box for future use.

Unbreakable body: https://www.ebay.com/itm/unbreakable-rc-body-for-monster-Arrma-Outcast-Nero-Fazon-1-8/202631043945
First one lasted a year... with lots of rivets and plastic bits band-aid'ing it together. I put this one on 3 months ago and it's holding up well so far.

I run proline trencher 3.8 tires/wheels that are wrapped with kevlar cord. It did fine for a full 6200mah pack (roughly 22 minutes) at the grass bmx track I bash at without overheating if I geared to 13T.

I just installed a max6 in hopes that I can go up to 14T and still make it through a set of packs without overheating. Also allows me to crank up the V on the BEC for the servo. I'm still sticking with the stock motor until it dies or gives me issues as it seems to work well. I put ceramic hybrid bearings in it recently as I hadn't had the motor open in the 18 months I've had it. Figured it was time. I run at skate parks and in grass 99% of the time. Very rare that my trucks see actual dirt.

I run 2x3S packs in it as I have 2 other 6S trucks that use saddle type battery compartments (ERBEv2, savage flux HP), so instead of having special packs for those and then for the outcast, I just make sure the ones I buy fit in all 3 and I label the packs, then always always run them in the same pairs. I try to switch the plug on the esc when I use them so they alternate each time I run them. I use HRB5000mah 50C 3S and Hobbystar 6200mah 50C 3S packs.

I think that covers most of it... aside from the arrma alloy cups in the diffs... but those have been more of a problem than a solution.

In all her glory:

I’ll have to start taping those Tekno rod ends, I can never seem to get them on perfectly straight ? good tip!

 

[Custnam]

I just happened to get more in the mail today...
as I break them on the regular! ?

View attachment 58626

So the TKR6140C ones will work? Or do they require modding? Cant find the TKR6140B in stock

 

[Hammer Down]

So the TKR6140C ones will work? Or do they require modding? Cant find the TKR6140B in stock

The ones in the pic are the ones I always use on my K6s with no modification. Maybe use a 4mm tap as they fit tight on the rod end. Don’t forget the little balls they are separate.
The Tekno shock tool is also a life/rod saver. ?

 

[Custnam]

OK. So just to verify. To get this done with the tap also I need:
TKR6140C
TKR5049A

And will this tap work?

 

[Hammer Down]

OK. So just to verify. To get this done with the tap also I need:
TKR6140C
TKR5049A

And will this tap work?

Looks good, the tap isn’t necessary but might help them go on easier/straighter.
I do highly recommend this tho.
https://www.amazon.com/Tekno-RC-Piv...ool&qid=1577499639&sprefix=tekno+shock&sr=8-2
Again, not necessary but definitely helps!!

 

[Custnam]

Tap set with wrench for $9. Not bad. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y2T1NBB/

Ordered all 3.

Also just curious. Anyone know what the difference is between TKR6140C and the TKR6140B? Think I figured it out.

 

[Jimbobjr]

It’s a twelve pound truck that goes 60mph. You’ve been away for a while? What was better back then? It’s going to break. The wing breaks pretty easy, best to have a couple on hand. The shock ends fail often and much of the time it’s because the droop is not set properly. The arms over extend and pull them apart. The guys above gave you the info on the other ends. I like the Nero ones...