Red Loctite anywhere on an RC?

[332_RC]

Is there anywhere that RED Loctite would be used on an RC? Any model. Any place that it's necessary or needed?

 

[gotnitro]

Pinions

 

[Surchaufeur]

Is there anywhere that RED Loctite would be used on an RC? Any model. Any place that it's necessary or needed?

Motor mouth screw and pinion. I use it on everything pretty much almost. Just different amount of it for X application. I do not trust blue when it comes to important screws. Blue comes loose very easily by experience

 

[razorrc]

Better dead than red.

Be cool, go blue.

 

[slick2500]

If you are a worker in the assembly factory everywhere.

 

[Garcbomber]

If I don't have super glue available, any partially stripped plastic threads will get some 271 to retain them from backing out and then next time I'll install a helicoil or insert.

I use red loctite 518 on alloy sealing surfaces(bulkheads to chassis/covers) so be careful with the general "red loctite" as there are many numerical formulas with different applications.

 

[GraniteFox]

I don’t use red on anything. If it’s a problem area just make sure you clean the screw well before adding the blue. Previously Arrma went overboard with the loctite. Recently I have noticed less on the new rigs. I would rather add my own where needed.

 

[305HemiGuy]

Can't say I'd really use red loctite on anywhere on a rig. At some point in that rigs life, that red loctited screw will need to be removed. I don't wanna go through the stress of trying to remove that screw if I ever decide to drop in a new motor or change pinion sizes, just for example. Hell, even some of the blue loctite is a PITA to remove sometimes. Every part on a RC is serviceable, or will need servicing at some point, and for that reason I'd stay away from the red stuff. That's just my opinion of course.

 

[SrC]

I find it so to hard to believe that people don't read and understand about all the grades of Thread locker out there.
Red anything is never to be used for our small M3, M4, Or even M5 screws. If you find a need to jump to Red, you are doing something wrong and Red is just a Crutch for you. And just because Chinesium Red or whatever that TL crap is "assumed" to be, and used during Factory assy. of some of our Arrma rigs, means nothing.
There are very few exceptions to this. Like when building a Higher end Kit built RC Model (usually Some Nitro rigs) And the manual specifically states to use Red TL on certain parts.
I was a Toyota Tech and a car gear head for all my years. Red and Blue TL have their specific applications. Trust me I have played with Red before on Small screws. NG

 

[sumguy75]

I have 2 things I use it for. The shock tower on my 2wd Stampede comes with a base plate that needs to be screwed on and the plate holds the transmission to the chassis. Blue WILL NOT WORK. I've used brand new screws cleaned thoroughly with 99% rubbing alcohol on a brand new tower also precleaned with alcohol AND let it cure for more than 48 hours, 100% textbook application. The blue fails within 15-20 bashes on that piece, I know because I went through that issue 3 times. Red works and lasts a lot longer, but even red eventually lets go due to the twisting forces. I finally found a tower that is machined as 1 piece with the base plate, so its no longer needed for that.

I also use it on the front axles on the 2wd Stampede. Stock axles break easy so I use Team A front axles that have a screw holding them in. They don't fit perfect and if the screw is tightened all the way the bearings will bind. I use red and tighten until its barely snug, bearing still spins freely and it won't come out. Haven't broken one of the Team A axles in over a year, but if I do I can simply grind the head off the screw to remove if a hex driver can't get it.

 

[Eno]

Red for pinions.

Don't be afraid of it, the screws can be removed by hand after applying heat to it. I am using a soldering iron for that and it works fine.

 

[jr744]

Steering posts that attach to the chassis on all 6S models.

 

[MrTitanium]

Red threadlock is considered overkill for RC purposes.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Red feels like blue for me. Im shocked at the responses. But i use red to secure diff screws, pinions and other things i find important that shouldnt come loose. Even with red i get my pinions to come loose. I just put enough to make the first 2-3 threads wet and if i need it to grip harder like the pinion all the threads of the grub screw is covered

 

[razorrc]

Don’t forget to shake your bottles before application.

 

[KevinC]

I used to use red on pinions, but not anymore. Blue is all that’s required for any RC work.

 

[CrashBoom]

I feel like it's not a coincidence that it's red and so is the devil.

 

[gotnitro]

I find it so to hard to believe that people don't read and understand about all the grades of Thread locker out there.
Red anything is never to be used for our small M3, M4, Or even M5 screws. If you find a need to jump to Red, you are doing something wrong and Red is just a Crutch for you. And just because Chinesium Red or whatever that TL crap is "assumed" to be, and used during Factory assy. of some of our Arrma rigs, means nothing.
There are very few exceptions to this. Like when building a Higher end Kit built RC Model (usually Some Nitro rigs) And the manual specifically states to use Red TL on certain parts.
I was a Toyota Tech and a car gear head for all my years. Red and Blue TL have their specific applications. Trust me I have played with Red before on Small screws. NG

Dude I’ll put torch heat in the pinion and braze solder in the hole, alright!.. then I’ll slap it truck okay!…then I’ll rip it with all that heat still in it, see!… my friends call me Jimmy hot pinions, I bleed red loctite.

 

[Johnny b]

Never required anything but blue. Even on my large fifth scale gassers.

 

[MrTitanium]

Chemical threadlock is for amateurs.

Want to make sure your screws don't come loose? Install drilled-head fasteners and use safety-wire (lockwire) instead. Sexy as all hell when done right as it's an artform.