Vorteks RTR Vorteks Boost Issues

[Hobbes]

Hello all!
I recently (less than a month) bought my son an RTR Vorteks 4x2 Boost for his birthday and he loves it. We use Zeee 5200 mAH LIPos to power it. Starting two days ago the ESC is significantly quieter when initializing and the motor wont move. Steering servo works and if you listen close it sounds like it want to move the motor but it wont. The motor isn't bound and the batteries are fully charged. The LED on the ESC blinks red with throttle input. Thoughts?

 

[slick2500]

Hello all!
I recently (less than a month) bought my son an RTR Vorteks 4x2 Boost for his birthday and he loves it. We use Zeee 5200 mAH LIPos to power it. Starting two days ago the ESC is significantly quieter when initializing and the motor wont move. Steering servo works and if you listen close it sounds like it want to move the motor but it wont. The motor isn't bound and the batteries are fully charged. The LED on the ESC blinks red with throttle input. Thoughts?

Motor is most likely dead. To be sure disconnect the motor leads from the esc and connect them directly to the battery. If it spins it's good if it doesn't spin it is bad.

 

[Hobbes]

Motor is most likely dead. To be sure disconnect the motor leads from the esc and connect them directly to the battery. If it spins it's good if it doesn't spin it is bad.

Just tried it, motor turns just fine.

 

[Snowmandk]

Does it turn very easily and smooth? Or does it feel kind of "notchy" and has some resistance (which it should)?

Might have overheated the motor and killed the magnets or the brushes are just completly worn.

 

[Hobbes]

It seemed normal. It was running fine until a battery change and then started acting up. Now it won't run on either battery even after I fully charge them.

 

[Snowmandk]

It seemed normal. It was running fine until a battery change and then started acting up. Now it won't run on either battery even after I fully charge them.

You said the sound when initializing got quieter, those are generated by the motor.
That still leads me to believe the motor might be done for.
A brushed motor in a quick car like the vorteks is not going to last long, too much wear on the brushes and the heat kills the magnets pretty quickly if you are not careful.

Try the ESC and motor with the servo unplugged.
Some people on the forum had a problem like yours and it turned out to be some electrical defect in the servo causing the ESC to behave funny.

Is the jumper for the LVC still set to LiPo?

 

[Hobbes]

By sound I meant the 2 beeps for LiPo and the DOOOOOOP sound on initialization. The jumper is still set to LiPo. I tried with servo unplugged and nothing changed.

 

[Snowmandk]

By sound I meant the 2 beeps for LiPo and the DOOOOOOP sound on initialization. The jumper is still set to LiPo. I tried with servo unplugged and nothing changed.

I am aware, that is the sound I meant.
It's generated by pulsing the motor and when a motor goes bad, the sound often does get quieter.

The only thing left to check would be your lipos, but it's unlikely two went bad at the same time...soo.. i'd say it's upgrade time

 

[Hobbes]

Is there a way to confirm a burnt out motor? Don't want to dump money into it if that's not the problem

 

[Bustedaw11]

Your battery is a 2s or 3s?

If your motor spins up fine off the battery directly id be looking at the esc..... both are pretty fragile in the boosts..

Another thing you could do is connect it all up and check for voltage at the motor when you hit the trigger while holding the truck still.. I'll bet you don't see the proper voltage.

 

[Haastnooit]

When connecting the motor to channel 1, does it function? If so try recalibrating the ESC … You can also try rebinding the transmitter and receiver ….

 

[Hobbes]

Your battery is a 2s or 3s?

If your motor spins up fine off the battery directly id be looking at the esc..... both are pretty fragile in the boosts..

Another thing you could do is connect it all up and check for voltage at the motor when you hit the trigger while holding the truck still.. I'll bet you don't see the proper voltage.

I'm using a 2s battery. 6.4v out of the ESC leads, 5 and some change at the motor. Is it possible to 'reset' the 2-in-1 esc that comes in a Boost?

When connecting the motor to channel 1, does it function? If so try recalibrating the ESC … You can also try rebinding the transmitter and receiver ….

I honestly have no idea how to do any of that.

 

[slick2500]

I'm using a 2s battery. 6.4v out of the ESC leads, 5 and some change at the motor. Is it possible to 'reset' the 2-in-1 esc that comes in a Boost?

I honestly have no idea how to do any of that.

Sounds like an esc problem but not 100% certain on that.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Sounds to me like you aren't getting the power from the esc. I don't believe there is a way to reset that esc, but I could be wrong.
I think if it were me I'd contact Horizon with the info you have and aim for a replacement esc.

 

[slick2500]

Sounds to me like you aren't getting the power from the esc. I don't believe there is a way to reset that esc, but I could be wrong.
I think if it were me I'd contact Horizon with the info you have and aim for a replacement esc.

Yeah I agree. Horizon will replace the esc under warranty if it is bad.