Granite S.O.S. Gear Mesh!

[ridgehead44]

Hey ya'll,

I am running into serious gear mesh issues. My ESC/motor combo crapped the bed so I replaced it. I cannot seem the get the mesh right. First run went for about 30 seconds and chewed up the spur gear. I figured it was too loose, so I did the paper trick.
Second run went about a minute then it chewed through the spear fear. I got a little longer runtime, but still the same result. Am I running my mesh too loose or too tight, or both, given the different set of circumstances?

 

[Tex Koder]

The main question is.. What did you replace your ESC& Motor with?

Are You Overpowering the stock transmission..

Also, did you Double check the motor mount-plate to see if it's Not bent from previous bashing session.

 

[N.Mango]

landing on throttle? Driveline binding somewhere? I don't know...just throwing thoughts out there.
Hope you get it figured out. When you do, maybe a metal spur for some peace of mind.

 

[islandlife]

While you have the motor out, put the transmission assembly back in the truck and roll it back and forth. It should roll easily, if not there could be a bad bearing, or some binding that could be adding resistance, and putting more strain on the spur gear

 

[Budha]

Man, that really did tear up the gear - lol. I’m not an expert, but the paper trick has always worked for me. I will set it with a strip of paper and make sure I can pull it back out with good, but not overly tight tension.

I will also push it back and forth to “hear” what the mesh sounds like. (Grindy - bad, smooth and even - good)

Also, double check your slipper clutch as well. There a couple videos on how to set the slipper clutch. I usually tighten it, then back off a 1/4 turn..

Something bent or not aligned could do that too.

 

[419RC]

What battery are you running? I used to go through spur gears like toilet paper and since I learned how to drive and usually don’t exceed 2s batteries, I’ve had 3 spares in my box forveerrrrrrr. I noticed that if the motor plate is slightly bend you’ll tear through the gears no matter how good your mesh is.

 

[Budha]

What battery are you running? I used to go through spur gears like toilet paper and since I learned how to drive and usually don’t exceed 2s batteries, I’ve had 3 spares in my box forveerrrrrrr. I noticed that if the motor plate is slightly bend you’ll tear through the gears no matter how good your mesh is.

This is true. As torn up as that gear is, I would check to make sure nothing is bent/out of alignment.

 

[SrC]

That 4x4 Power module/motor mount strikes again. Making an otherwise good mesh go wrong.
You are not alone. Also, dirt can collect inside that Power module and cause bricked spur gears. Needs to be cleaned out quite often. Maybe the slipper is getting too hot/ set too loose and contributing to this also. Not to rule out bad driving habits....
Look carefully at the motors mount by taking it out , It is probably tweaked some.
Good luck.

 

[ridgehead44]

The main question is.. What did you replace your ESC& Motor with?

Are You Overpowering the stock transmission..

Also, did you Double check the motor mount-plate to see if it's Not bent from previous bashing session.

I replaced a HW Max10 SCT EZ Run G1 with the new G2 sensored system. The old ESC was randomly cutting off, even when both motor and ESC were cool as cucumbers. I paired them with an 80c 3s battery.

Annnnnnd... Mystery solved, I think.

Looking closer this morning I found I could pull the pinion gear off the motor shaft easily. The grub screw had backed out and allowed the pinion to loosen up.
That loose pinion must've slid around in there and chewed up the spur.

Does that sound like the root issue?

 

[FireDrake001]

I replaced a HW Max10 SCT EZ Run G1 with the new G2 sensored system. The old ESC was randomly cutting off, even when both motor and ESC were cool as cucumbers. I paired them with an 80c 3s battery.

Annnnnnd... Mystery solved, I think.

Looking closer this morning I found I could pull the pinion gear off the motor shaft easily. The grub screw had backed out and allowed the pinion to loosen up.
That loose pinion must've slid around in there and chewed up the spur.

Does that sound like the root issue?

I have had that type of problem with a rustler 4x4 vxl. When it comes loose the grub screwkills the spur. That sounds very reasonable. You will be much happier with that Hobbywing setup as well. Tell us if that fixed your problem.

 

[SrC]

I replaced a HW Max10 SCT EZ Run G1 with the new G2 sensored system. The old ESC was randomly cutting off, even when both motor and ESC were cool as cucumbers. I paired them with an 80c 3s battery.

Annnnnnd... Mystery solved, I think.

Looking closer this morning I found I could pull the pinion gear off the motor shaft easily. The grub screw had backed out and allowed the pinion to loosen up.
That loose pinion must've slid around in there and chewed up the spur.

Does that sound like the root issue?

I will assume you are using a slight amount of "Blue" Threadlocker on that pinion Set screw/Grub screw. Grub screw and pinion threads need to be very clean. Let TL cure for 24 hours before running. Or it can just loosen up like there is no TL on there.
A quality hand Hex driver is a must. Not the "L" wrenches. Hand hex drivers will afford a good purchase into the grub screw hex and should torque down well enough and much better.
FWIW, I always set my mesh on the Tight side.
It is so rare that I ever lose a pinion.
Use heat/ torch on the pinion's TL first, before removing it. Grub screws and even pinions also wear out . They are consumabale parts IMHO. Good to have spare grub screws at best. I sometimes grind down the grub screw a bit for a better bite onto the Armature shaft's "Flat". Usually with older grub screws, this works before needing to replace it. Even a quick scuff with a metal file will work.
Govern yourself accordingly.
My spin.

 

[islandlife]

I replaced a HW Max10 SCT EZ Run G1 with the new G2 sensored system. The old ESC was randomly cutting off, even when both motor and ESC were cool as cucumbers. I paired them with an 80c 3s battery.

Annnnnnd... Mystery solved, I think.

Looking closer this morning I found I could pull the pinion gear off the motor shaft easily. The grub screw had backed out and allowed the pinion to loosen up.
That loose pinion must've slid around in there and chewed up the spur.

Does that sound like the root issue?

On a side note, i just recently had a similar problem with my v1 max10sct. It would cut on and off, sometimes run for a minute, sometimes just cycle on/off. Turns out the power/set switch was malfunctioning. I cut it off, now it just powers up when i plug in the battery, which i honestly prefer anyways.

 

[SrC]

@islandlife , how do you plan on using the "Set Button" to access the ESC's parameters, and all etc. , now that you don't have one???
I imagine now you need to replace the switch somehow.
Do you use a Programmer card?

 

[islandlife]

@islandlife , how do you plan on using the "Set Button" to access the ESC's parameters, and all etc. , now that you don't have one???
I imagine now you need to replace the switch somehow.
Do you use a Programmer card?

Im hoping i can use the program card that came with the hw 1080 i have in one of my crawlers. If not, it looks like the switch off the smoked blx100 is the same one, i could wire that one in.

 

[SrC]

I would have tried sprayed/soaked some Electrical contact spray in the Switch first, before cutting it off. And operate it to free the dirt. Let dry.
Sometimes that cleans them out of corriosion and dirt. A dielectric spray will keep them in good shape. As preventative mainteneance. If running in the wet, you are on your own there. Water and electrics just don't do well IMHO.

 

[islandlife]

Well i run in all kind of conditions, wet included!

 

[ridgehead44]

I have had that type of problem with a rustler 4x4 vxl. When it comes loose the grub screwkills the spur. That sounds very reasonable. You will be much happier with that Hobbywing setup as well. Tell us if that fixed your problem.

Well, I am not chewing through my spur gear, but it seems like I have another issue. The car makes a terrible ratcheting noise on power.

I thought the slipper clutch was slipping, so I set it, threadlocked it, and let it sit for over 24 hours. I am still getting that noise. Here is a video:

I can't believe I am having so many issues. Any ideas?

 

[Jeckler]

Check your diffs.

 

[RCbuzz]

Well, I am not chewing through my spur gear, but it seems like I have another issue. The car makes a terrible ratcheting noise on power.

I thought the slipper clutch was slipping, so I set it, threadlocked it, and let it sit for over 24 hours. I am still getting that noise. Here is a video:

I can't believe I am having so many issues. Any ideas?

Sounds like a roasted diff. I would start with the rear. Not too hard to get to them.

They are cheap, be sure to use plastic safe grease when rebuilding.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/differential-case-set-37t-main-gear-blx-3s/ARAC4022.html

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/hd-input-gear-13t/ARA311031.html

There are metal upgrades as well.

 

[razorrc]

Sounds like plastic gear teeth skipping on other plastic gear teeth. That is most likely going to be the front or rear input gear/ring gear skipping on the front or rear diff.