Senton Senton 3s upgrade questions

[Gee04]

Hello again everyone,
I posted in new members section to say hello.
Hope this is the right section for this. If not can someone direct me to the right area.
I'm acquiring a senton 3s on trade. I was wondering what some upgrades that you guys have done and recommend.

Thank you in advance

 

[Tex Koder]

Hello again everyone,
I posted in new members section to say hello.
Hope this is the right section for this. If not can someone direct me to the right area.
I'm acquiring a senton 3s on trade. I was wondering what some upgrades that you guys have done and recommend.

Thank you in advance

Inner fenders...
To keep it from becoming a Dyson.

 

[Gee04]

Inner fenders...
To keep it from becoming a Dyson.

Thank you. I've heard about it liking dust and dirt.
So you have a suggestion it link to where and what I should be looking?

 

[Tex Koder]

Only one supplier/manufacturer is making them.. Scorched RC.

 

[Gee04]

Only one supplier/manufacturer is making them.. Scorched RC.

They're from the UK I think?

 

[Greengaunja]

Only one supplier/manufacturer is making them.. Scorched RC.

They are worth it. In my opinion, they pay for themselves. There really isn't alot upgrades for this platform but I like the following upgrades on mine because I feel they improve what I had:
1-Ball bearing aluminum bellcrank
2-pivot balls
3-driveshafts. Buy the ARRMA brand heavy duty CVDs. I've tried the others and even stock plastic was better. I run my Sentons hard and have yet to break one of these CVDs.

 

[Johnny b]

Stock pivot balls wear very fast. Always good to have a set of extra bearings also. Keep an eye on the ones in the motor module particularly. Agree with Ted's suggestion on the Scorched RC fenders.

 

[Gee04]

They are worth it. In my opinion, they pay for themselves. There really isn't alot upgrades for this platform but I like the following upgrades on mine because I feel they improve what I had:
1-Ball bearing aluminum bellcrank
2-pivot balls
3-driveshafts. Buy the ARRMA brand heavy duty CVDs. I've tried the others and even stock plastic was better. I rub my Sentons hard and have yet to break one of these CVDs.

Stock pivot balls wear very fast. Always good to have a set of extra bearings also. Keep an eye on the ones in the motor module particularly. Agree with Ted's suggestion on the Scorched RC fenders.

Thank you kind sirs. I will grab and watch for what you've suggested.

 

[419RC]

I’ve found the best upgrade…is to downgrade the battery to a 2s! 3s is just dumb on this platform and you’re bound to break or wear things down extra fast. I mostly drive mine on 2s now and I rarely break stuff.

 

[Senton_Prime]

all this +.. Some motor fans for sure.. adjustable aluminum turnbuckles, HR servo saver with the fixed link, shocks, ect ect..

 

[Johnny b]

I’ve found the best upgrade…is to downgrade the battery to a 2s! 3s is just dumb on this platform and you’re bound to break or weak things down extra fast. I mostly drive mine on 2s now and I rarely break stuff.

Not a bad idea. Just curious what kind of speed decline your seeing?

 

[419RC]

Not sure on the MPH. I mostly drive it on the tracks now and some parking lot racing. On 3s @ 100% I find it to be uncontrollable.

 

[Gee04]

They are worth it. In my opinion, they pay for themselves. There really isn't alot upgrades for this platform but I like the following upgrades on mine because I feel they improve what I had:
1-Ball bearing aluminum bellcrank
2-pivot balls
3-driveshafts. Buy the ARRMA brand heavy duty CVDs. I've tried the others and even stock plastic was better. I run my Sentons hard and have yet to break one of these CVDs.

Would you happen to have a part number for the cvds? Or link?
Much appreciated.

 

[Senton_Prime]

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...6eoluoKHETq7lwNd4mJEnn8RNV31hywIaAnrrEALw_wcB

 

[Ozeki]

I would raise the body as much as you can. I also cut away a bit of the body with curved scissors. The wheelbite or ballooning contact with the fender can shred the tires, especially in the front. If you're not going to lift the body have an extra pair of tires on hand. Would also recommend replacing the stock plastic spur gear with a steel one. Rechargable AA batteries for your transmitter, obviously. For the most part it's a really fun RC but I prefer the models with unobstructed tires for economical reasons (even though I really want a Mojave).

 

[Greengaunja]

I would raise the body as much as you can. I also cut away a bit of the body with curved scissors. The wheelbite or ballooning contact with the fender can shred the tires, especially in the front. If you're not going to lift the body have an extra pair of tires on hand. Would also recommend replacing the stock plastic spur gear with a steel one. Rechargable AA batteries for your transmitter, obviously. For the most part it's a really fun RC but I prefer the models with unobstructed tires for economical reasons (even though I really want a Mojave).

He can do this, or a better option would be belted tires. The Senton and its cousin, the Mojave, are the two that benefit the most with belted tires. Use belted tires and limit the suspension compression and it would surprise you how efficient it can be. Take the following pic. This is my 1/8 6s Senton with 2.8 MT belted Trenchers. Pretty close and yet tires do not touch the body. Yeah, different model, yet I do the same with the 1/10 3s Sentln with the same results. This was the only pic I could find.

Note: Don't this for offroad or if you jump her. For that, you need the full compression the shocks offer.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...6eoluoKHETq7lwNd4mJEnn8RNV31hywIaAnrrEALw_wcB

Wrong ones.
These are far better https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-4x4-mega-cvd-slider-set-ara310870/p775219

Part number

#AR310870 (ARAC3974)

Here is why I say this. And just so you know, I'm a HR fan boy......
Post in thread 'Cv joint keeps disconnecting' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/cv-joint-keeps-disconnecting.43325/post-597972

 

[Gee04]

He can do this, or a better option would be belted tires. The Senton and its cousin, the Mojave, are the two that benefit the most with belted tires. Use belted tires and limit the suspension compression and it would surprise you how efficient it can be. Take the following pic. This is my 1/8 6s Senton with 2.8 MT belted Trenchers. Pretty close and yet tires do not touch the body. Yeah, different model, yet I do the same with the 1/10 3s Sentln with the same results. This was the only pic I could find.View attachment 289204Note: Don't this for offroad or if you jump her. For that, you need the full compression the shocks offer.

Wrong ones.
These are far better https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-4x4-mega-cvd-slider-set-ara310870/p775219

Part number

#AR310870 (ARAC3974)

Here is why I say this. And just so you know, I'm a HR fan boy......
Post in thread 'Cv joint keeps disconnecting' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/cv-joint-keeps-disconnecting.43325/post-597972

I like that idea. Those tires look great on that truck.
Thank you for links ideas and help

 

[Gee04]

Happy Sunday guys.
I ordered the parts you guys suggested.
Senton runs nice and pretty good shape. Didn't hear any strange noises. I just have to rebuild the shocks. 2 of the 4 are leaking. Other then that. It's pretty nice rig.
It came with a hobbywing 3800kv. Also came with a Ford truck body. Not sure what I think of that.
This should scratch my SC truck inch until I get a Mojave

 

[Cba43]

I'm going against the grain somewhat but my only interest is track so slightly different. I also run only 2s and the difference isn't all that much. I run 100c packs so they pack some punch. I lowered my body as far as possible, vented the rear of the body and removed the dirt guards on the chassis up front. Jumps 100 times better. Small Rocks were getting caught constantly between the steering bell cranks at servo side especially so I dremmeled open the hole allowing access to the link bolt as far as I was comfortable and it eliminated that issue. I also upgraded to aluminum bellcranks and tie rod ends. Slop all gone now. Dirt gathers like mad in the trans case. So while I was in there cleaning I kept dropping pinion teeth lower and at 17 teeth it really accelerates great on 2s eliminated slipper and a lightweight traxxas Jato metal spur. I run duct tape over opening in the bottom of trans for a big improvement in the dirt that gathers in there. For me 35 weight shock oil and proline tires and wheels. Next change for me will be tuning the diff oils but as of now it track races extremely well. Rod ends and steering link are must do items regardless imho.