Outcast Servo saver solved!

[PittsburghJason]

Posted this on fb not long ago and figured I would share here.

Did some research and fixed the servo saver once and for all. No box cutting either, just cut the tip of the servo saver and space the servo with 10mm spacers. It's that simple with the right parts.

Treal Aluminum 7075 Servo Saver Set 25T for LMT Monster​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091YBRD1Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Hot Racing SPC3007 M3 Aluminum Standoff Spacer Set (4x)(3-5-7-9mm)​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XF8HFQ6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

M3 1mm washers and longer m3 screws are also needed.​

The treal servo saver works well and can be adjusted from weak stock steering all the way to too stiff that it will break your servo. Spaced it with 9mm hot racing m3 standoff spacers and 1mm m3 washers, plus a standoff spacer for the power button. Working so well that I threw a bunch of camber and toe out on my front wheels so it doesn't roll over. Now it corners fast on any surface.

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

That's pretty awesome I will be noting this for the future if I need to do this. Currently not running a servo saver at all on my mojave 4s for quite some time without any issues but of course thats much smaller tires than an outcast or kraton

 

[Just a hobby]

The kimbrough HD servo saver works as well. Just have to trim down the ends. My steering is much improved. $12

 

[PittsburghJason]

The kimbrough HD servo saver works as well. Just have to trim down the ends. My steering is much improved. $12

I had the hot racing ss which is about the same as the kimbrough ss from what I hear, but it was just too weak. This is much tighter and should last longer.

 

[Just a hobby]

I had the hot racing ss which is about the same as the kimbrough ss from what I hear, but it was just too weak. This is much tighter and should last longer.

It's much better than stock. On power it could be better, off power 10 times better that stock. Only $12 and two cuts of the cutters and done. Maybe in the future when the kimbrough servo saver has had it.

 

[Barmaleus]

Nice, thank you for sharing! Might try it in future.

What are those Integy things on your car? To beef up the shock holders?
Also, what front bumper is that? Looks like it's Oktays.

 

[PittsburghJason]

Nice, thank you for sharing! Might try it in future.

What are those Integy things on your car? To beef up the shock holders?
Also, what front bumper is that? Looks like it's Oktays.

Yes the braces from integy beef up the shock towers and eat into the body so I just padded the body and raised the posts, but they work well. Body is unbreakable. The first thing I broke was the shock tower so it got upgraded quick. I got one or 2 more pieces of the puzzle coming to finish my upgrades. Stock bumper and Oktay bumper screwed atop a m2c chassis brace.

 

[PittsburghJason]

It's much better than stock. On power it could be better, off power 10 times better that stock. Only $12 and two cuts of the cutters and done. Maybe in the future when the kimbrough servo saver has had it.

On power this setup is still solid as could be with speed. It will turn all the way at speed until the front wheels come off the ground or it rolls, so I lowered the diff oil weight in the rear to 10k and setup a bunch of camber and toe out in the front. Now the truck handles like a dream and it is a diff monster. My drive train is fully upgraded/hardened so I can really hear it and see it selecting the grippiest wheel/wheels to not give power to and power to slipperiest wheel. Diff monster with 10k oil. I had 30k in the front and rear and that locked up the rear making it torque wheelie easy. 500k center btw. High speed road corners now barely lift a rear wheel and it just bites hard in the dirt. I have been staying off the road because it does 360s flat and easy which are so much fun that I am going to wear the tires down too fast.

 

[TheStapler]

I also did this upgrade using 9mm 3d printed spaces. Using stock servo.

 

[Glitch]

I also did this upgrade using 9mm 3d printed spaces. Using stock servo.

View attachment 366426

Very interested in trying this first for “free” do you have a supplies list?

 

[Barmaleus]

On power this setup is still solid as could be with speed. It will turn all the way at speed until the front wheels come off the ground or it rolls, so I lowered the diff oil weight in the rear to 10k and setup a bunch of camber and toe out in the front. Now the truck handles like a dream and it is a diff monster. My drive train is fully upgraded/hardened so I can really hear it and see it selecting the grippiest wheel/wheels to not give power to and power to slipperiest wheel. Diff monster with 10k oil. I had 30k in the front and rear and that locked up the rear making it torque wheelie easy. 500k center btw. High speed road corners now barely lift a rear wheel and it just bites hard in the dirt. I have been staying off the road because it does 360s flat and easy which are so much fun that I am going to wear the tires down too fast.

So you got back to stock numbers? =)

 

[PittsburghJason]

So you got back to stock numbers? =)

View attachment 366440

Close to stock. Front I have 30k, rear 10k and center 500k. The front with 30k seems fine and is definitely not locked. I guess the way Arrma designed it is good. Not really sure why people are locking them up with thicker fluid unless they like to do wheelies or want constant power to front and rear with ear plugs in the center. I like the diffs working the way they should instead of locked. I had the rear diff locked for 3 months with 30k and it was great for torque wheelies, but now it selects more between all of the wheels and doesn't wheelie as easy. I like it and can definitely tell the difference.

 

[Barmaleus]

@PittsburghJason I see. My Kraton 4s has stock viscosity in diffs for now. What does 30k in front give exactly? More power transferred to rear?

 

[PittsburghJason]

Very interested in trying this first for “free” do you have a supplies list?

To be cheap, you could save about 10 whole bucks by conjuring up your own spacers and screws, plus save a whopping $15-20 by getting a cheaper servo saver. Probably won't work as well and will wear out faster plus be a bigger pain to install and then have to deinstall it sooner and experimenting with different cheaper parts should be fun, but it can be done and you will get what you pay for. Good luck with your budget.

@PittsburghJason I see. My Kraton 4s has stock viscosity in diffs for now. What does 30k in front give exactly? More power transferred to rear?

I want to say less power in the rear, because locking diffs gives them full power and thicker fluid in the front made it stronger, so more power to the front.

 

[Dales396lt4]

I like the LMT servo saver in my K4sV2. I have tried them all and it is the best by far and the way to go. I have two K4sV2 one stock and one that's way over the top with mods. Like 6s everything, v2.5 diff and so on. I will be putting the LMT servo saver in the stock one soon.

 

[TheStapler]

Very interested in trying this first for “free” do you have a supplies list?

Sorry i've taken abit to reply.

I used
4x m3 x 20mm for servo
1x m3 x 12mm for power button
1 x treal servo saver

Will upload the 3d prints tomorrow.

 

[Glitch]

Sorry i've taken abit to reply.

I used
4x m3 x 20mm for servo
1x m3 x 12mm for power button
1 x treal servo saver

Will upload the 3d prints tomorrow.

Great, looking forward to it!

 

[TheStapler]

Great, looking forward to it!

Just uploaded

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6627980