chilly81
Very Active Member
- Messages
- 447
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- Arrma RC's
- Fireteam
- Granite
- Typhon 3s
Ah clickbait - of course it's not. But I was seriously considering what just doing these two things could do to be able to have one car (a Fireteam) and spend 10 minutes switching it back and forth between regular bash mode and road mode. It won't be a limitless but I'd imagine it would make it hugely better with minimum changeover or cost.
Leave stock shocks and towers - long travel high, fairly lightly sprung and damp. Figure out how much shorter the shock spring would have to be to drop the car to the desired low/street ride height. Maybe 130mm down to 80mm. Get a spring that length, with at least a 50% higher rate. Then adjust the droop to prevent the shock from extending past the length of the new shorter springs. So basically you're using droop to prevent the shock from going full extension. Having the short spring avoids having a big preload because you tried to squash the long spring down. And having a stiffer spring rate would be because it was in road mode.
Any reason that wouldn't work? Maybe not perfect, but drop the ride height an inch or more and stiffen up the suspension, and swap the tires. Can literally do in 10 minutes as long as you don't go crazy with spring rates and need to thicken the fluid. I bet it would be a different car for minimal bucks... really only the cost of the springs, since you're going to eat tires one way or another when you're using the car.
I do wish the droop adjustment and pin looked a little more robust, but I don't really see a reason it would fail. But if changing droop frequently, it might not hold up.
Leave stock shocks and towers - long travel high, fairly lightly sprung and damp. Figure out how much shorter the shock spring would have to be to drop the car to the desired low/street ride height. Maybe 130mm down to 80mm. Get a spring that length, with at least a 50% higher rate. Then adjust the droop to prevent the shock from extending past the length of the new shorter springs. So basically you're using droop to prevent the shock from going full extension. Having the short spring avoids having a big preload because you tried to squash the long spring down. And having a stiffer spring rate would be because it was in road mode.
Any reason that wouldn't work? Maybe not perfect, but drop the ride height an inch or more and stiffen up the suspension, and swap the tires. Can literally do in 10 minutes as long as you don't go crazy with spring rates and need to thicken the fluid. I bet it would be a different car for minimal bucks... really only the cost of the springs, since you're going to eat tires one way or another when you're using the car.
I do wish the droop adjustment and pin looked a little more robust, but I don't really see a reason it would fail. But if changing droop frequently, it might not hold up.