Droop screw adjustments and A-arm flexing

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Mopsik_Klopsik

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Messages
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Location
Poland, Zielona Góra
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
I have adjusted my droop screw and now to mount the shock I need to compress it by around 4mm. Unfortunately when I install the shock, it is still able to fully extend itself by forcing the A-arm to flex. Is that normal or should I move the A-arm slightly higher to prevent this from happening? I'm using RPM exb A-arms.
 
I have adjusted my droop screw and now to mount the shock I need to compress it by around 4mm. Unfortunately when I install the shock, it is still able to fully extend itself by forcing the A-arm to flex. Is that normal or should I move the A-arm slightly higher to prevent this from happening? I'm using RPM exb A-arms.

Which vehicle?
 
Have a picture? Adjust the droop screw so you have to slightly pull down the arm to get it to engage the lower holding pin for the shock rod end. I can't remember if the latest RPM arms are more or less elastic than EXB. If they're more elastic you definitely want to give it additional flex clearance.
 
Have a picture? Adjust the droop screw so you have to slightly pull down the arm to get it to engage the lower holding pin for the shock rod end. I can't remember if the latest RPM arms are more or less elastic than EXB. If they're more elastic you definitely want to give it additional flex clearance.
You mean I can't allow the shock to fully extend when it is mounted?
 
You mean I can't allow the shock to fully extend when it is mounted?
I personally don't allow Kraton/notorious arms to do so, Mojave or shorter can fully extend since they are more rigid arms. Especially in addition with a wider stub/hub, but we're only talking 1/8" of travel that will be negligible on a basher. Your call though!
 
After some testing...

Left side - during installation I had to compress the shock absorber by 4mm to match the mounting holes. After installation, the shock absorber forced the a-arm to flex a few millimeters leading to shock absorber fully extending itself.

Right side - during installation, I had to compress the shock absorber by 8mm to match the mounting holes ( the a-arm was raised higher with the drop screw ). After installation, the shock absorber forced the a-arm to flex a few millimeters. This time the shock absorber did not fully extended and is still compressed by about 4mm. Which I think is a good thing.

I think I will re-do rest of the wishbones same way as the right side and move them up about 8mm higher than the length of the shock. Let's say the shock lenght is 120mm( hole to hole ), but the mounting points will be 112mm apart.

Apparently a fully extended shock absorber is more vulnerable to damage during hard landings.

IMG20240212154354.jpg
 
Get rid of the RPM arms and it’s ok if the shocks go to full length at full droop. Just set the droop screws to also touch.
 
@Mopsik_Klopsik

It's not mentioned much with droop screws but washers that you find with the droops have become essential for me to. I have set my droops since I got into the hobby. I have seen over time and bashing the droop changes but I did not have enough washers under the droop or any at all. It's harder to set when using washers but does stop the droop screw from pushing through the arm and keeps it reinforced and true to your placement.

It's just something to think about if you want it to last... I redid all my 6S rigs with the washers, and the droop holds now....

Vets, if I am wrong on that...please correct I am open to correction :)
 
It's not mentioned much with droop screws but washers that you find with the droops have become essential for me to. I have set my droops since I got into the hobby. I have seen over time and bashing the droop changes but I did not have enough washers under the droop or any at all. It's harder to set when using washers but does stop the droop screw from pushing through the arm and keeps it reinforced and true to your placement.

It's just something to think about if you want it to last... I redid all my 6S rigs with the washers, and the droop holds now....

Vets, if I am wrong on that...please correct I am open to correction :)
I'm also using washers. Tell me please, how do you set up your droop screws. Do you want your shocks to be compressed a bit, or can they be fully extended as long as the droop screw touches the chassis? ( when car is in the air of course )

Screenshot_2024-02-12-23-25-43-88_99c04817c0de5652397fc8b56c3b3817.jpg
 
I'm also using washers. Tell me please, how do you set up your droop screws. Do you want your shocks to be compressed a bit, or can they be fully extended as long as the droop screw touches the chassis? ( when car is in the air of course )

View attachment 348240

Excellent job Sir!

All my rigs FT, Kration, Talion, Kraton, etc. I let the arms drop down completely. Next, adjust the droop, lifting the arm up, and set the washers under the droop screw where the shock is "slightly" compressed. This may be 3-5mm of compression...very little not a lot. What I have read here seems to be the common practice on RC videos. I want the drop screw to hold the arm force on the chassis, which keeps the shocks slightly compressed to protect the shock end on the arm.
 
So, as long as the droop screw touches the chassis, it's fine?
I'll let him answer that question...

I will say the droop screw does have a function, so it is not just to be touching the chassis. How much or little it is adjusted has a response to how your rig handles.

I think of it like coils on my car..... The lower the coils are adjusted, the ride is different, and when I left them up to be a bit higher. So, in the RC world, I'm not saying it is 1-1 the same, but the droop has an impact.

Maybe the other guy will respond to your question....
 
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