Granite Slider driveshafts breaking like cookies

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lee82gx

Active Member
Messages
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149
Location
Penang, Malaysia
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Notorious
  3. Outcast 6s
So I have put in only 5 packs worth of running and frankly I love the car. Just a good combination of weight and agility. But with my kind of bashing I'm just breaking driveshafts left and right.

I'm doing a lot of jumps and backflips, sometimes I land on throttle but I find the both of the rear driveshafts just giving up on a strong wheelie on grass.




I hear that the slipper clutch needs to be "adjusted" but I have already loosened from 1 1/2 to almost 2 turns now.



Is there a good solution to this that does not involve buying the Arrma CVD slider upgrade? It will cost US$65 per pair shipped to my address (Malaysia).

FWIW I am not having similar issues even on 3S with my Gorgon that shares similar part number, just a slightly updated design. Granted it cannot jump high enough and rotate enough to backflip...

I've also broken 2 shock eyelets, all in 4 packs of running...

Is the 3S BLX system made of cheese? The 6S cars do not absolutely do this, I don't want to jinx it but they are far more robust. Getting a little tired of troubleshooting guys.

20240519_113749212_iOS.jpeg
 
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Try to get some new type drive shafts, part number is the same, but they made a bit different, with extra material in the right places.

Maybe this is what you have on your Gorgon?

View attachment 367356
I concur that the ones on the right come on the Gorgon & left on a Senton. I have both rigs, & they look just like that. I've busted the Senton ones & upgraded to china metal ones on it. Never had a issue with the Gorgon ones & it's brushless.
 
Try to get some new type drive shafts, part number is the same, but they made a bit different, with extra material in the right places.

Maybe this is what you have on your Gorgon?

View attachment 367356

I went for Mojave 4s CVD driveshafts, but that is a costly route.
I can concur the Gorgon has the one on the right and it looks stronger. In fact I am transplanting one from it right now to replace a busted on the right rear. Then the left rear original one crapped out the next run :sleep::cry:

I concur that the ones on the right come on the Gorgon & left on a Senton. I have both rigs, & they look just like that. I've busted the Senton ones & upgraded to china metal ones on it. Never had a issue with the Gorgon ones & it's brushless.

You're china metal does it look like this:

sg-11134201-7rble-lmh908y1wfxlbb.jpeg

I have a set and I immediately returned it as they easily weigh 200g in my hands and that must be 10 times of stock. I'm worried about transferring the load and weakness to another part of the drivetrain not to mention it must slow down everything.
 
Yes they do. And without modification to them they are garbage. 3pc units the middle portion isn't fixed. It slides all around causing more trouble. I pinned mine. Still ok, but go with Gorgon ones. Lighter & probably much better imho
 
I’d be interested to know how these beefed up stock driveshafts hold up. I already upgraded to a Mojave setup, but my original setup was definitely lighter and may have handled slightly better. If these driveshafts hold up, I might switch back.
 
Is the 3S BLX system made of cheese?
That seems to vary greatly from person to person. I only just recently shredded the rear driveshafts on my BR and that's after dozens of battery packs and endless sends. My biggest issues have been with the spur gear and the turnbuckles.

The stock parts are so cheap I just replace them when they break. The correct way to view these 3S vehicles, IMO, is as disposable beaters.

The 6S cars do not absolutely do this

No, but they do bend driveshafts, bend chassis, bend shock towers, rip out pillow balls, etc.

No platform is without its breakages. The question is what you'll pay when that happens.
 
That seems to vary greatly from person to person. I only just recently shredded the rear driveshafts on my BR and that's after dozens of battery packs and endless sends. My biggest issues have been with the spur gear and the turnbuckles.

The stock parts are so cheap I just replace them when they break. The correct way to view these 3S vehicles, IMO, is as disposable beaters.



No, but they do bend driveshafts, bend chassis, bend shock towers, rip out pillow balls, etc.

No platform is without its breakages. The question is what you'll pay when that happens.
Won’t disagree with your statement. I’d say with the type of bashing I do, the 6s are not unbreakable by any stretch.
Mine tend to be wing mounts and wheels if I don’t land well.
But on good landings it feels like they will go forever.

The bad thing about the 3s is I can land flat but it still chews up the rear driveshafts and there is no good remedy. I’m on the Gorgon updated design and we’ll see how long those last. It seems like I am not able to order the new design as they have the same part number. Got a pack of 4 old design from jennysrc and I’m just treating them all as wear and tear.
 
I’d be interested to know how these beefed up stock driveshafts hold up. I already upgraded to a Mojave setup, but my original setup was definitely lighter and may have handled slightly better. If these driveshafts hold up, I might switch back.
I am actually very happy with my setup with the original Typhon parts on the front axle and the rear is converted to Mojave 4s arms and driveshafts.
The front seems to handle 4s well.
If you always run bigger wheels like Outcast/Kraton wheels, I see it happening the composite Typhon driveshaft don't last.
 
I am actually very happy with my setup with the original Typhon parts on the front axle and the rear is converted to Mojave 4s arms and driveshafts.
The front seems to handle 4s well.
If you always run bigger wheels like Outcast/Kraton wheels, I see it happening the composite Typhon driveshaft don't last.
Not a bad idea, it is usually the rear driveshafts. Also I already broke a Mojave front arm. It wasn’t even a crash, slightly front heavy landing. The Mojave arms may actually be TOO beefy. They didn’t flex and got ripped from the hinge pin. My Typhon arms survived countless landings like that.
 
The new design with the added material is not only stronger but has reduced angles / freedom of motion so it doubly helps in terms of reducing breakage. It’s too bad I personally have no way of buying it for sure, i have no LHS to see before buying. Got 4 old mold from jennys recently. Wish they break up Gorgons for parts, that’ll be a strong guarantee.
 
The new design with the added material is not only stronger but has reduced angles / freedom of motion so it doubly helps in terms of reducing breakage. It’s too bad I personally have no way of buying it for sure, i have no LHS to see before buying. Got 4 old mold from jennys recently. Wish they break up Gorgons for parts, that’ll be a strong guarantee.
You are saying you cannot get your hands on the updated driveshafts, but you make a statement that they have less freedom of motion. Are you sure about that and are you sure it is a problem or are you making assumptions? I highly doubt that what you are saying is correct.

If you share you location, I am sure somebody can sent you an updated set of driveshafts.
 
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i don't want to start a useless argument here, but i did the exact same thing when disassembling and reassembling and I could have sworn they are just a little tighter in max angles especially due to less gaps caused by the extra material. ;). But I could be wrong, and there is nothing to gain by being right here..
Agreed, let's not start f*cking ants here.

What work for one, doesn't work for a other. Happy bashing is what it is about.
 
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