Fireteam So if the Hubs were aluminum, what would have broken instead?

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Mechanicos

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fireteam
  2. Kraton EXB
Hey everyone, my
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3rd day out bashing my Fireteam today, did a big jump, hit the break, nosedived, landed on the front left wheel, lower pillow ball popped out from the hub.

And i was later wondering, what if the hubs were aluminum and the pillow ball couldnt pop out, would something else broke? Or would the arms just bend and absorb all the force?
 
On wide arm 6S rigs with alloy blocks/s2 hinge pins/hubs, the front end-links are my failure mode. In the winter the upper A-arm on a 30’+ direct hit. 6mm CVD shafts just laugh and would destroy an output cup before bending.
 
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So better to leave them plastic, or just replace them with the kraton exb ones to also use the bigger inner bearing

EDIT: I THOUGHT THE STOCK KRATON EXB HAVE BIGGER INNER BEARINGS FOR HUBS
 
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So better to leave them plastic, or just replace them with the kraton exb ones to also use the bigger inner bearing
If you run dirty terrain at high speeds the inner composite hub bearings will blow out often on a wide arm/stub/hub configuration. That’s the main reason to go alloy as you figure out the transmitter situation 😉

Alloy allows a larger ball bearing outside race diameter.
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If that's the only thing you mangle ,it's easy to replace and light on your wallet. 👍
The stock plastic hubs are super cheap!
 
I can answer that, with a lot more force you'll bend a pivot ball (the thing your broken part mounts to). I have a bent one on my Kraton.
 
I can answer that, with a lot more force you'll bend a pivot ball (the thing your broken part mounts to). I have a bent one on my Kraton.
Have a photo? Must have been a soft steel or old design. I’ll pull plastic arm threads and upgraded helical metal inserts before bending the longer male thread steel coated v5 pivot balls.
 
I used to run in to this problem all the time pop it back in. OK don’t pop it in take it out and reinstall it. Keep on Bashan.
 
Have a photo?
It looks straight but when I install it into a new arm the end of the hex drive swings around a circle. When it becomes an issue I'll replace it.

The bent pivot ball is on a V5 EXB.

Already back in, bashing again tomorrow
I can see the crack in your steering block in the photo. Your pivot ball is just going to pop out again. On the back side of the retaining hole there is a fine line, that's the crack. Been there, done that, so I know where to look.
 
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It looks straight but when I install it into a new arm the end of the hex drive swings around a circle. When it becomes an issue I'll replace it.

The bent pivot ball is on a V5 EXB.


I can see the crack in your steering block in the photo. Your pivot ball is just going to pop out again. On the back side of the retaining hole there is a fine line, that's the crack. Been there, done that, so I know where to look.
I didnt really inspect it closely as i was in a hurry, i will have a closer look

It looks straight but when I install it into a new arm the end of the hex drive swings around a circle. When it becomes an issue I'll replace it.

The bent pivot ball is on a V5 EXB.


I can see the crack in your steering block in the photo. Your pivot ball is just going to pop out again. On the back side of the retaining hole there is a fine line, that's the crack. Been there, done that, so I know where to look.
I checked it again, there is no crack
 
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If you run dirty terrain at high speeds the inner composite hub bearings will blow out often on a wide arm/stub/hub configuration. That’s the main reason to go alloy as you figure out the transmitter situation 😉

Alloy allows a larger ball bearing outside race diameter.

View attachment 364413
Therefore only way to get bigger inner bearings is to use aluminium hubs, so RPM is not making hubs for the ARRMA vehicles?
RPM hubs with bigger bearings would be ideal for me.
 
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