Steering play fix?
- Thread starter Rooles
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bogdaddyd82
Active Member
There's a few things to do. I will get into it and post after work. But, basically it's shiming, tightening, and minor customizations. I saw a guy on youtube use an aluminum chassis brace to make steering block lol. But, there's other ways.
Dustin Mustangs
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I am all ears for this one!
bogdaddyd82
Active Member
Lol @Dustin Mustangs . So many people have issues with this. Myself included.
bogdaddyd82
Active Member
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This is a link to the video I mentioned before. I will start by saying that I have yet to solve completely the steering play issue. However. I have had success using captured steering links from traxxas. I used the same ones on my Redcat racing blackout xte. The steering is more responsive. Tho the stock arrma links are durable and strong. They do have a bit too much flex to them imo.
Secondly, I noticed that some of the screws in my steering assembly where loose out of the box. So I went through and painstakingly tightened every single one. Which did do some good. Additionally I have heard much success in switching to the Traxxas 2075 high torque, waterproof servo. Theres not much else I can dig up at the moment.
However I do plan to try adding spacers or shims in different areas of the steering assembly to try tightening up some of the excess slop!
I also am playing with different toe angles. To combat the wicked wobble in reverse. Which for me only occurs intermittently.
It's a shame that there are no easy answers to this. I have to say that the slop in the steering is my only major gripe with the Arrma 1/10 line. I hope someone somewhere develops a clear cut solution for us all. But for now I will continue to tinker.
Secondly, I noticed that some of the screws in my steering assembly where loose out of the box. So I went through and painstakingly tightened every single one. Which did do some good. Additionally I have heard much success in switching to the Traxxas 2075 high torque, waterproof servo. Theres not much else I can dig up at the moment.
However I do plan to try adding spacers or shims in different areas of the steering assembly to try tightening up some of the excess slop!
I also am playing with different toe angles. To combat the wicked wobble in reverse. Which for me only occurs intermittently.
It's a shame that there are no easy answers to this. I have to say that the slop in the steering is my only major gripe with the Arrma 1/10 line. I hope someone somewhere develops a clear cut solution for us all. But for now I will continue to tinker.
Dustin Mustangs
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The video won't play for me either.
Most of the play in mine seems to be coming from the bushings between the steering posts and the steering post fins. If I look up under there as I turn the wheel by hand through its play range I can see the fins rocking up and down. Ideally they would have no movement in that direction.
Some shims there should work but I have not had a chance to experiment with it. Of course the other option would be bearings instead of bushings.
Most of the play in mine seems to be coming from the bushings between the steering posts and the steering post fins. If I look up under there as I turn the wheel by hand through its play range I can see the fins rocking up and down. Ideally they would have no movement in that direction.
Some shims there should work but I have not had a chance to experiment with it. Of course the other option would be bearings instead of bushings.
bogdaddyd82
Active Member
Hey fellas! Sorry bout the video not working..must have corrupted the file when I copied it.
Search YouTube for Arrma Granite fix
The guys name is Jakedean91909
You are very welcome!
Search YouTube for Arrma Granite fix
The guys name is Jakedean91909
You are very welcome!
ajdragon
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Hi
The bearing size for those bushing are 4X7X2.5mm, I up grades those bushing to bearing and I no longer have any play in that part of the steering. If only Arrma would incorporate bearings into the servo saver then we would be set.
- Thread starter
- #12
I took the lower and upper cover off of the steering and discovered a loose nut and two loose screws. After tightening them the looseness of the steering was reduced. It's not perfect but it's better. I'll have to check out the bearings. I'm not sure where the bushings you guys are talking and about are located. Could you guys take a pic? Here is a link for the bearings.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=003041897&I=LXKMA4&P=K
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=003041897&I=LXKMA4&P=K
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ajdragon
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Hi
I ordered these from avid bearings. http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/573/4x7x25-Revolution-MR74-RSZ-bearings.html
I ordered these from avid bearings. http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bearings/573/4x7x25-Revolution-MR74-RSZ-bearings.html
ajdragon
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Hi
I would say get enough to do the whole truck, here is a list of what you will need.
I would say get enough to do the whole truck, here is a list of what you will need.
- (2x) Rubber Sealed Bearing 10x15x4
- (10x) Rubber Sealed Bearing 5x10x4
- (2x) Rubber Sealed Bearing 5x13x4
- (2x) Revolution 4x7x2.5 these two are for the steering
Drewski
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What are the rest of those bearings for?
Dustin Mustangs
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Ok, so I made some progress with the slop on my granite and for pretty much free.
First, make sure your steering post fins are tightly screwed to the flat bar peice with the ball studs on it. Use a drop of CA on the threads to keep them from loosening up which otherwise happens on mine every 10 packs or so.
Then I made a new pin for the side without the servo saver that clamps the fin like the servo saver side does. This eliminates the slop between the pin and the fin. I cut the head off a bolt of the proper length that had a thread OD of 3mm. I ground the threads down at the top and bottom to 2mm OD so they engaged the holes properly. I used a flat nut on the bottom that was ground down to fit the bottom of the fin and, once in position on the pin, crushed slightly in a vise to make sure it stayed put. At this point it is basically identical to the servo saver side pin but with threads all the way down. Then I threaded a locknut on the top, upside down, and tightened it all the way down to firmly clamp the fin.
I also jammed some small shims, little peices of a zip tie, into the holes on the underside of the servo cover until all the up and down play in the pins was gone.
These three mods took away at least 75% of my slop. Not perfect by any means, but definitely close enough to make me happy.
Here is a pic of the pin, the nut shown by it is not the locknut style I ended up using.
First, make sure your steering post fins are tightly screwed to the flat bar peice with the ball studs on it. Use a drop of CA on the threads to keep them from loosening up which otherwise happens on mine every 10 packs or so.
Then I made a new pin for the side without the servo saver that clamps the fin like the servo saver side does. This eliminates the slop between the pin and the fin. I cut the head off a bolt of the proper length that had a thread OD of 3mm. I ground the threads down at the top and bottom to 2mm OD so they engaged the holes properly. I used a flat nut on the bottom that was ground down to fit the bottom of the fin and, once in position on the pin, crushed slightly in a vise to make sure it stayed put. At this point it is basically identical to the servo saver side pin but with threads all the way down. Then I threaded a locknut on the top, upside down, and tightened it all the way down to firmly clamp the fin.
I also jammed some small shims, little peices of a zip tie, into the holes on the underside of the servo cover until all the up and down play in the pins was gone.
These three mods took away at least 75% of my slop. Not perfect by any means, but definitely close enough to make me happy.
Here is a pic of the pin, the nut shown by it is not the locknut style I ended up using.
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