Kraton Steering problem

Reaper 007

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My kraton has a savox1230 servo..stock tires..and I'm running on 6s..I've noticed that my turning radius is very wide..so wide i can't give it any gas while turning..not even a little or she understeers like crazy..someone said i needed a bec for my servo because the servo was cutting in and out..but it doesn't feel like it is..i can't see that it's cutting out..but i don't know..what happens if i tightened the servo saver would that help it hold the turn..because I've set my end points and when she's not moving the wheels turn fully..lock to lock..I'm stumped what can i do to help it turn better..
 

bicketybam

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My kraton has a savox1230 servo..stock tires..and I'm running on 6s..I've noticed that my turning radius is very wide..so wide i can't give it any gas while turning..not even a little or she understeers like crazy..someone said i needed a bec for my servo because the servo was cutting in and out..but it doesn't feel like it is..i can't see that it's cutting out..but i don't know..what happens if i tightened the servo saver would that help it hold the turn..because I've set my end points and when she's not moving the wheels turn fully..lock to lock..I'm stumped what can i do to help it turn better..
Sounds like the servo saver is loose. Tighten it see if it improves.
 

Reaper 007

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Is there something in the manual on how to adjust the servo saver and what the tension should be adjusted too..
 

KRA-TON7

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Just tighten it until it bottoms out at the top. Stop immediately when it reaches the top tho, if you don't it's just too much tension on the entire steering system. Also make sure your pillow ball nuts are not loose, grab the top and bottom of the steering blocks, wiggle them back and forth, tighten the nuts just enough to remove any slop, but don't over tighten these either, or you can burn up a servo xtremely quickly, don't care who makes it, plus your suspension can't function properly
 

2fast4u

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Is there something in the manual on how to adjust the servo saver and what the tension should be adjusted too..
Typically the adjustment nut ends up 4-5 mm above the chassis to be satisfactory.

There is a hole in the chassis right next to the nut. You can insert an Allen wrench or small screwdriver just far enough to catch the nut and wedge it against it to hold it. Start by turning the wheels by hand fully to the right (looking at it as if you are sitting in the truck) Insert the tool to hold the nut, then turn the wheels fully left, release the tool and repeat until the adjustment is where you want it. The end point adjustment procedure is in your manual. Make sure your ST D/R knob on your transmitter is turned fully clockwise (Max) before setting the end points. Set the truck on a coffee can or stand so the wheels are off the surface you are working on. Listen closely when adjusting the end points, the servo will emit a faint whine (hard to hear over the ESC fan sometimes) when the adjustment is set too far, (You can unplug the ESC fan while doing this, just make sure you plug it back in with the wires in the same orientation they were originally) The procedure is done for both left and right.
 

olds97_lss

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I do what @2fast4u says, but I tighten it all the way to the top, then put some gel threadlock right under the nut, then I back it off to about where he says. Then the nut has worked it's way through a gob of threadlock, which help keeps it where you leave it. For some reason, it likes to walk it's way loose on the arrma trucks.
 

2fast4u

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My kraton has a savox1230 servo..stock tires..and I'm running on 6s..I've noticed that my turning radius is very wide..so wide i can't give it any gas while turning..not even a little or she understeers like crazy..someone said i needed a bec for my servo because the servo was cutting in and out..but it doesn't feel like it is..i can't see that it's cutting out..but i don't know..what happens if i tightened the servo saver would that help it hold the turn..because I've set my end points and when she's not moving the wheels turn fully..lock to lock..I'm stumped what can i do to help it turn better..
The general suspension and alignment settings on your vehicle will have a profound effect on how it handles. There is more involved in how it steers than just end points and servo saver adjustments. These matter but so do many other adjustments. Here is a link to a pretty good explanation of it. These adjustments not only apply to racing but to all applications. If it handles badly chances are very high that the setup is off in one or more areas.
There is no magic bullet, it's all about the combination that works for your driving style and conditions.

http://stories.jqracing.com/the-guide/

Start with something basic like,
Ride height - front & rear lower a arms parallel to ground
Droop - 15 - 20 mm ( measured at the chassis)
Toe - (front only) slightly out (2° or so) or around 2 mm.
Camber - 2° neg. Front & rear
Caster - I prefer upper a arms clear forward. (This is least posative as it will go) It helps it steer quicker.
Evaluate it from there and make changes one at a time.
Keep notes so you don't forget what you did where. Or what effect it had.
You will be amazed at how much the handling can be changed.
 
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bicketybam

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The general suspension and alignment settings on your vehicle will have a profound effect on how it handles. There is more involved in how it steers than just end points and servo saver adjustments. These matter but so do many other adjustments. Here is a link to a pretty good explanation of it. These adjustments not only apply to racing but to all applications. If it handles badly chances are very high that the setup is off in one or more areas.
There is no magic bullet, it's all about the combination that works for your driving style and conditions.

http://stories.jqracing.com/the-guide/

Start with something basic like,
Ride height - front & rear lower a arms parallel to ground
Droop - 15 - 20 mm
Toe - slightly out (2° or so) or around 2 mm.
Camber - 2° neg. Front & rear
Caster - I prefer upper a arms clear forward. (This is least posative as it will go) It helps it steer quicker.
Evaluate it from there and make changes one at a time.
Keep notes so you don't forget what you did where. Or what effect it had.
You will be amazed at how much the handling can be changed.
Why the toe out?
 

2fast4u

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Why the toe out?
Ideally, from a drag (rolling resistance) standpoint, 0 toe is the least rolling resistance but, on a front or 4 wheel drive the forces of the front wheels pulling will tend to force the toe inward. Some toe out will offset this plus offer a little quicker turn in response. However, if you venture too far out it will create a situation where when you first start to turn or want to make a subtle turn at speed it will tend to dart in that direction at first. Toe in, typically used on a rear wheel drive application (when the front wheels are being pushed) tends to force the toe out. So starting with a little toe in offsets that. Plus tends to enhance straight line stability. But again, if you go too far it creates steering that starts a little lazy when turning then darts in that direction. In some situations 0 toe can give a loose feeling to the steering. Toe out can give more steering into a turn & toe in will offer more out of the turn. There is no "Hard" right or wrong. Again it depends on the overall combination for your driving preferences to achieve your goal.
I prefer the caster as least positive as possible with toe out which quickens steering going in and the rest of the setup allowing the car to pivot coming out under power. And it is not "Ideal" in every situation. That is not achievable.
I was giving a reasonable base line to start from. After that it's trial and error and seeing what changes effect what aspect. Experimenting with all the possible settings to find what gives you the desired results will not magically break the car.
 

bicketybam

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Fair enough. I was just curious. I read never run toe out in the rear. Either 0 or -1.
 

2fast4u

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Fair enough. I was just curious. I read never run toe out in the rear. Either 0 or -1.
That is true, and that has to do with the angle of thrust created. When referring to toe I was only meaning front. And will edit that to clarify. Although I don't think rear toe is adjustable on any of the Arrma vehicles, is it ?
 

olds97_lss

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That is true, and that has to do with the angle of thrust created. When referring to toe I was only meaning front. And will edit that to clarify. Although I don't think rear toe is adjustable on any of the Arrma vehicles, is it ?
I haven't noticed any alternate hinge pin plates like my jato has available for that. So, guessing not.
 
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