Talion Stopping Wheelies diff oil

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Eizrah

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Hi guys. Need help recommending diff oil to stop the wheelies on my Talion EXB. Current set up is stock pinion, 150A ,2050kv motor. Punch level 4, Proline badlands LP 3.8 tires. It will only wheely on 6S not on 4S. Run my talion on track mostly and not for bashing. Any tips would be much appreciated...thanks
 
I don't think diff. oil is going to help. Drive it on 4S? Or Learn Trigger Control. Lol
 
Hi guys. Need help recommending diff oil to stop the wheelies on my Talion EXB. Current set up is stock pinion, 150A ,2050kv motor. Punch level 4, Proline badlands LP 3.8 tires. It will only wheely on 6S not on 4S. Run my talion on track mostly and not for bashing. Any tips would be much appreciated...thanks
Sounds weird you are racing with 6s, most tracks follow ROAR in 1/8th buggy. You should ask what the guys use you race with.
 
You can try evening out the power distribution by going heavier oil weight in the center differential. I run 20m in my center diff that just about locks it up. But the biggest factor, and yes I do know she said that, is your fingering. Ease more slowly on the trigger or set up a delayed throttle curve if possible.
 
On the side note im not racing on the track but playing it mostly on the track.. kinda fun race with frens. Nothing serious... My current diff oil is 30k Front 300k center and 20k rear.
 
I believe Lighter Diff. oil in the center diff. will let the front tires bleed off power, when the front tires come off the ground.
 
Might want to consider going to an open center diff and remove the lsd plates. They make a spacer kit to convert to an open diff. 300k should be fine on an open diff but you may want to go a little lighter to push power to the front. Trial and error.
 
On the side note im not racing on the track but playing it mostly on the track.. kinda fun race with frens. Nothing serious... My current diff oil is 30k Front 300k center and 20k rear.
Well, if it's not wheelie'n its diffing out on the front tires on 6s, pick your poison. A typical track set up from front to back goes like this:

7k-5k-2k
10k-6k-3k
 
You're using wide offset high grip 3.8 dirt bike tires, it's going to stand the front end up on 6S power. Switch back to a narrower/less tread friction short course or belted talion wheel. Bleeding center power and unloading the front tires is counterproductive.
 
FYI when i don't encouter wheelie on stock diff oil 10k frt 100k ctr and 10k rear. Only when i change to 30k 300k 20k diff oil i have those wheelie on 6S.. Honestly im good with Exb diff. Not going to race mode too....
 
On the side note im not racing on the track but playing it mostly on the track.. kinda fun race with frens. Nothing serious... My current diff oil is 30k Front 300k center and 20k rear.
I run 60/375/30 in my Notorious. I have 500 & 200 mix in center I'm guessing it's at 375. I went a little heavy on the 500 when I built it. It still wheelies being a SWB but not as much as 500. It's a great combo. Really fast, bashes great. Stock ESC & 2050kv stock pinion.
I run 60/375/30 in my Notorious. I have 500 & 200 mix in center I'm guessing it's at 375. I went a little heavy on the 500 when I built it. It still wheelies being a SWB but not as much as 500. It's a great combo. Really fast, bashes great. Stock ESC & 2050kv stock pinion.
Mostly run on 4s, 6s is just wild on a SWB.
 
As was said above-if it’s having trouble keeping the front end down, it’s as simple as THINNING the center diff. That’s about the only CORRECT way to resolve the issue that doesn’t include “band-aid’n” the setup due to Arrma vehicles not having adjustment for rear toe, or anti-squat. There will be no magic number as far as fluid weight goes, because it’s 100% dependent on far too many variables; track surface, vehicle weight, suspension setup, tires, spring rate, shock oils, gearing, motor, esc, etc.. To get it “right” you WILL be doing a LOT of testing. I prefer to go until it just starts to “diff out”, and then thicken it from there to suit your driving style, or needs required to run on your current surface. Mine is crazy thin as compared to what most here run… The “out of the box” setup, and fluid weights are absolutely TERRIBLE for going fast lol…
 
Hi guys. Need help recommending diff oil to stop the wheelies on my Talion EXB. Current set up is stock pinion, 150A ,2050kv motor. Punch level 4, Proline badlands LP 3.8 tires. It will only wheely on 6S not on 4S. Run my talion on track mostly and not for bashing. Any tips would be much appreciated...thanks

I hate my rigs doing wheelies. I go 200 weights for my center diffs...50/200/20. Very common for all my 6S basher rigs. FWIW, I do feel center diff cannot be ignored has a pay

Tires. Even with the above, my 4S Backflip tires have great traction they still can lift it. So I have to be smart to know what tires I will use based on where I bash. BF tires work best for me in total dust, so it slip and will not stand up. Grass or dead grass, etc I use a tire that has a little slip and less traction over the BF.

Fast-forward, I moved to another level. I made my Talion EXB an XL with the Mojave chassis. It's a sweet marriage since I do not want it to wheelie, and the longer chassis really helps...even with the BF tires on traction surfaces. Yes, it will stand, so I added a hard-to-find T-Bone wheelie bar, and even if it stands, this wheelie bar sits so low to push it back down. Far better than those wheelie bars up high on the wing.

Not saying this all is for you. How I progressed over time to keep from wheeling to making it a non-wheelie machine so I can not give a damn about throttle control and gun it, and it shoots off low, fast, and straight to blow my buddy away whose rigs wheelies all day off the line. Yes, still learn throttle control :)


XL chassis with good wheelie bar...this Talion has power 4082 motor with Max6 ESC. Rides low if it stands in the grass it's low and brief!
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I don't think diff. oil is going to help. Drive it on 4S? Or Learn Trigger Control. Lol
+1
Track running is done with 4s packs. It is simply over powered for the track on 6s , being technically a 1/8 Truggy, will run best on 4s packs. Sanctioned racing only permits 4s packs for this reason. For safety as well. The Arrma 1/8 6s platform was really a Track kit based chassis platform designed for 4s running going years back. Running 6s packs and ESC's became a thing for faster wide open Bashing etc.
Try lowering your punch down, lower than 4. all the way down, then work up a notch at a time. See how it responds. Work on that Throttle finger better.
Another tweak that helps with wheelying. Yeah wheelies are useless on a track.
What diff oils are you running right now. Box stock? Diff oils are specifically setup for confined track running ( 4s) or wide open bashing.( 6s). 4s will get you better lap times if that matters to you in a confined track setting.
 
Thanks all for the advice and info.. Probably will maintain this set up since i have only 1 pack or 6S and 4 pack of 4S... So will lower the punch or just control the throttle finger hahahhaha...
 
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