Straightening out bent parts

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I noticed when building the SCT, the shafts were even thinner! :eek:

I mean, like you said it does make sense for a racing aspect. I'll be running 6s on my MT410 eventually (with a delicate trigger finger), i'll let you know if I have any issues. IIRC though, most bent driveshafts come from hard landings after big jumps, not necessarily 6s power.
Yeah, I noticed that too on the sct. Can't see it being a problem with sct sized tires and wheels though.. I've crashed mine plenty of times already, broke the A block, popped the pivot ball out on the sway bar..no damage to hinge pin or axle though, thankfully.
With regards to the MT410, yeah, they definitely do bend on 4s too since I've only ever ran on 4s,LOL. Largest tire I've ever run was kaiju and backflip LP's. "LOTS" of botched landings though😮🙄🤔🤭
 
MIP makes thicker ones.
Just took a perusal cause i've heard of them making aftermarket stuff for teknos, but it looks like they aren't making much tekno stuff anymore (looks like driveshafts just for the EB410)? :(

https://www.miponline.com/Tekno-RC-Car-Parts
Yeah, I noticed that too on the sct. Can't see it being a problem with sct sized tires and wheels though.. I've crashed mine plenty of times already, broke the A block, popped the pivot ball out on the sway bar..no damage to hinge pin or axle though, thankfully.
With regards to the MT410, yeah, they definitely do bend on 4s too since I've only ever ran on 4s,LOL. Largest tire I've ever run was kaiju and backflip LP's. "LOTS" of botched landings though😮🙄🤔🤭
I remember there was a hack to using arrma driveshafts, but it required some fabbing or specialty components. I'll see if i can find the thread again.

@KnowAir, I found it:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/5mm-cvd-driveshafts-are-in.256/
Looks like it could be recreated.
 
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Just took a perusal cause i've heard of them making aftermarket stuff for teknos, but it looks like they aren't making much tekno stuff anymore (driveshafts specifically)? :(

https://www.miponline.com/Tekno-RC-Car-Parts

I remember there was a hack to using arrma driveshafts, but it required some fabbing or specialty components. I'll see if i can find the thread again.
Yep, MIP is a legend in the hobby for sure. Been around for decades. I don't see much new stuff coming out from them these days though unfortunately. Tekno is a smaller brand too, in the big picture. Really just known for race rigs, so not particularly popular with the masses.
I remember there was a hack to using arrma driveshafts, but it required some fabbing or specialty components. I'll see if i can find the thread again.
Just saw a post on Tekno forums yesterday about it. @slick2500 suggested it's cheaper to just buy M2C axles.
I guess Overkill hasn't been into the rc's in a while, he used to sell premade kits a few years back..
Funny, I'm pretty sure I remember him (Overkill) being on the "Wondertiger" forum too..
 
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The Tekno shafts weren't designed for bashing but rather for racing so, definitely not picking on Tekno by any means.
If ever I go to 6s in the mt410, it would surely need something thicker such as the MIP you suggested, or M2C, or even the Arrma/Tekno custom build..Thanks👍
I like keeping the mt410 light, just better that way IMO.
I run 6S in my MT410 and haven't bent any CVDs 🤷‍♂️. And I jump it pretty big. The long center dog bone is the only shaft I've bent but that was before I installed M2C chassis bracing. Perfect since.

Since you mentioned keeping it light, I really like these batteries in the MT410. They fit the battery tray well and have taken some serious abuse. I have it geared for 45-50mph and get pretty long runtime even though the batteries are only 4Ah.
 
Do you ever try to straighten out bent metal parts or just replace them with new? Case in point, I bent one of my front cvd driveshafts on my Outcast and debating if it's possible to straighten it enough to work properly again or if new ones would be best option.
I do it all the time with my BFM made out of copper and a 2x4. It doesn't come out perfect, but who cares. It's just a basher not a speed vehicle or a race buggie.
 
Yeah, I noticed that too on the sct. Can't see it being a problem with sct sized tires and wheels though.. I've crashed mine plenty of times already, broke the A block, popped the pivot ball out on the sway bar..no damage to hinge pin or axle though, thankfully.
With regards to the MT410, yeah, they definitely do bend on 4s too since I've only ever ran on 4s,LOL. Largest tire I've ever run was kaiju and backflip LP's. "LOTS" of botched landings though😮🙄🤔🤭
I only run my MT on 4s. I always wondered if 5s would be a sweetspot. Have yet to try it.
I tried 6s in the beginning and it is too uncontrollable for me. With that short Wheel base. Better balanced and much lighter with 4s as well.
It is faster on 4s than my Noto is on 6s.:giggle:
 
I run 6S in my MT410 and haven't bent any CVDs 🤷‍♂️. And I jump it pretty big. The long center dog bone is the only shaft I've bent but that was before I installed M2C chassis bracing. Perfect since.

Since you mentioned keeping it light, I really like these batteries in the MT410. They fit the battery tray well and have taken some serious abuse. I have it geared for 45-50mph and get pretty long runtime even though the batteries are only 4Ah.
Good to know about those batteries, thanks👍
As to the cvds, IDK what to say..you haven't bent any Tekno's, I have.. but yet, never bent an Arrma shaft(me)? No rhyme or reason to this madness,LOL 😎👌🍻
I only run my MT on 4s. I always wondered if 5s would be a sweetspot. Have yet to try it.
I tried 6s in the beginning and it is too uncontrollable for me. With that short Wheel base. Better balanced and much lighter with 4s as well.
It is faster on 4s than my Noto is on 6s.:giggle:
Agreed, "I " haven't felt a need to run 6s in the MT410 either, but I can sure respect those who do.. Maybe one day, IDK, but haven't had the itch for it myself. It's just me.. I have 6s rigs that I don't even run on 6s.. I guess I just prefer the handling and less wear and tear of 4s?
Or..maybe I'm just skeered of 6s?😉🤣🤣🍻
 
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I think it's a question of how bent it is. You can try straightening it out with a hammer and anvil (or other suitably hard and flat surface) or, the company T-Works makes a drive shaft correcting tool. https://www.rc-tworks.com/collections/frontpage/products/tt-065-driveshaft-correcting-tool
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What a terrific idea this is. I bent my Tekno shafts a bit from sending it a teensy bit too high on my Rustler 4x4 and while they function fine, both rears now wobble a fair bit. Nothing terrible, but not worth $40 for this at this stage in the game. Maybe they'll let me rent it for $20? Hah!
 
What a terrific idea this is. I bent my Tekno shafts a bit from sending it a teensy bit too high on my Rustler 4x4 and while they function fine, both rears now wobble a fair bit. Nothing terrible, but not worth $40 for this at this stage in the game. Maybe they'll let me rent it for $20? Hah!
Yeah, I agree, it's certainly nice but, $40? Nah, I don't think it's that critical to get them perfectly straight, certainly not for bashing. Close counts for me. I have the Tekno cvds in the rear of my TRX hoss. I don't think they're made for it though..everytime it takes a hard tumble the axle pops out of the outdrive..maybe I need to adjust the droop screws?🤣🤣
 
Yep, MIP is a legend in the hobby for sure. Been around for decades. I don't see much new stuff coming out from them these days though unfortunately. Tekno is a smaller brand too, in the big picture. Really just known for race rigs, so not particularly popular with the masses.

Just saw a post on Tekno forums yesterday about it. @slick2500 suggested it's cheaper to just buy M2C axles.
I guess Overkill hasn't been into the rc's in a while, he used to sell premade kits a few years back..
Funny, I'm pretty sure I remember him (Overkill) being on the "Wondertiger" forum too..
Hmm, forgot about M2C's option. If i run into the issues that bending back can't resolve, i might consider those. Hoping that my somewhat cautious driving style will prevail and I can keep the stockers!
I run 6S in my MT410 and haven't bent any CVDs 🤷‍♂️. And I jump it pretty big. The long center dog bone is the only shaft I've bent but that was before I installed M2C chassis bracing. Perfect since.

Since you mentioned keeping it light, I really like these batteries in the MT410. They fit the battery tray well and have taken some serious abuse. I have it geared for 45-50mph and get pretty long runtime even though the batteries are only 4Ah.
I have the same thought process as you. I run one of these 4000mah 6s lipos in my Kaiju. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNX75KB/. Same weight as a 6000mah 4s, so overall, it's not really any weight gained. What you do get is a cooler runner truck that has a higher top end with around the same amount of torque. But that's just been my experience. Once i grab a 6s capable esc for my MT410, i'll plan to do the same. What chassis bracing did you get?
I only run my MT on 4s. I always wondered if 5s would be a sweetspot. Have yet to try it.
I tried 6s in the beginning and it is too uncontrollable for me. With that short Wheel base. Better balanced and much lighter with 4s as well.
It is faster on 4s than my Noto is on 6s.:giggle:
I'm plenty fine with the power of 4s on my MT410. I can't generally use full throttle without wheelies anyway. What i don't like is that there isn't enough top end to make mid-air corrections when things get wonky for my uses. I'd rather not gear up and deal with temperature issues (on 4s it's currently geared for reasonable temps) to get more speed. So using a lightweight 6s battery seems like the next best option? :unsure:
 
Depending on your ESC, I would up the Punch and even Motor Timing slightly, if available, to garner better torque and rpm's for Rotation control. Gearing and chosen tires matter as well. Many do get some great big air with the MT on 4s.
I run XR8 Plus/1950kv /sensored with my MT410. Sensored gives a better linear throttle response across the power band.
 
Hmm, forgot about M2C's option. If i run into the issues that bending back can't resolve, i might consider those. Hoping that my somewhat cautious driving style will prevail and I can keep the stockers!

I have the same thought process as you. I run one of these 4000mah 6s lipos in my Kaiju. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNX75KB/. Same weight as a 6000mah 4s, so overall, it's not really any weight gained. What you do get is a cooler runner truck that has a higher top end with around the same amount of torque. But that's just been my experience. Once i grab a 6s capable esc for my MT410, i'll plan to do the same. What chassis bracing did you get?

I'm plenty fine with the power of 4s on my MT410. I can't generally use full throttle without wheelies anyway. What i don't like is that there isn't enough top end to make mid-air corrections when things get wonky for my uses. I'd rather not gear up and deal with temperature issues (on 4s it's currently geared for reasonable temps) to get more speed. So using a lightweight 6s battery seems like the next best option? :unsure:
Completely agree with your points. I don’t understand why people shy away from 6S on the MT410. It’s more efficient and runs cooler. And with the right components, it’s controllable and not any heavier than a 4S setup.

I bought bracing to reduce chassis flex/collapse on a hard landing. These parts:

6913: steering plate
6905: center brace
6973: rear horizontal brace
6971: tower brace
 
Depending on your ESC, I would up the Punch and even Motor Timing slightly, if available, to garner better torque and rpm's for Rotation control. Gearing and chosen tires matter as well. Many do get some great big air with the MT on 4s.
I run XR8 Plus/1950kv /sensored with my MT410. Sensored gives a better linear throttle response across the power band.
I do wish HW would include the 5s option in the programming menu myself on the Max esc's.
I have run 5s in kaiju, mojave and kronos xtr and find it to be a perfect balance of power and handling ( for me)..unfortunately, the only way to pull it off is by disabling LVC. Which of course is not reccomended.
I have a 10+ year old Xerun 150a that I just installed into my mojave that has the 5s option in the program menu..plus it really seems to pull harder with this esc compared to the Hobao rtr 150a I had in it.
 
Completely agree with your points. I don’t understand why people shy away from 6S on the MT410. It’s more efficient and runs cooler. And with the right components, it’s controllable and not any heavier than a 4S setup.

I bought bracing to reduce chassis flex/collapse on a hard landing. These parts:

6913: steering plate
6905: center brace
6973: rear horizontal brace
6971: tower brace
Good points. I've been running blx185 with backflip LP's, 4s 5200mah and 18 to 20t pinion. Never had a motor fan on it, never been over 130f. I've always been satisfied with this setup in terms of power, it runs side by side with 6s Arrmas and TRX no problem.
I guess it all depends on what you want from it.
Disable LVC for 5s and run Lipo alarms off the balance leads.
Yup, that's what I've been doing, but uh, the alarm is me..when it starts getting soft, they're at LVC,LOL.
 
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HW did add this feature in the new Max8 G2. It can be set to 5S.
Nice! It's always been available in the Xerun esc's I believe? I guess I must've bought the Xerun 150 before I became such a cheapskate. LOL.. thing has a sensor port that I don't think I've ever pulled the cap off of.. sensored? Sounds expensive 🤣🤣
Case in point, I work on electric forklifts for a living. Take a .99 cent bearing, add sesnor, now it's a$160 bearing🤣🤣
 
The Tekno shafts weren't designed for bashing but rather for racing so, definitely not picking on Tekno by any means.
If ever I go to 6s in the mt410, it would surely need something thicker such as the MIP you suggested, or M2C, or even the Arrma/Tekno custom build..Thanks👍
I like keeping the mt410 light, just better that way IMO.
Oh shoot I meant M2C not MIP. And going the M2C route is about half the cost the Arrma cvd route even using a kit breaker for parts not to mention that Overkill stopped making the spring clips that hold in the cvd pins. He has been mia since last year.
Yep, MIP is a legend in the hobby for sure. Been around for decades. I don't see much new stuff coming out from them these days though unfortunately. Tekno is a smaller brand too, in the big picture. Really just known for race rigs, so not particularly popular with the masses.

Just saw a post on Tekno forums yesterday about it. @slick2500 suggested it's cheaper to just buy M2C axles.
I guess Overkill hasn't been into the rc's in a while, he used to sell premade kits a few years back..
Funny, I'm pretty sure I remember him (Overkill) being on the "Wondertiger" forum too..
He's on rctech and was on the URC forums years ago.
My XR8 Plus has the same limitation as the regular Max8 - either 4S or 6S. No 5S unfortunately.
Iirc the 8bl150 also supports 5s.
 
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