Outcast Stripped grub on cvds

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SouthernFried

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock
  2. Granite
  3. Kraton EXB
  4. Outcast 4s
  5. Typhon 3s
  6. Vendetta
  7. Vorteks
Has anyone run into stripped threads (won't screw out) on their Outcast cvds? First time tearing into the diffs and couldn't one of the cvds off. Fortunately, it wasn't on the side I needed to get the diff open. Just asking before I destroy this thing getting it off.
 
You mean the Hex head is stripped??? Right?
Should have heated it first.
Possibly Threadlocker got the best of you? IDK.
The grub screw is done bricked..
Could try drilling it out carefully to spare the rest of the parts. Worth a try.
Hopefully I understood you correctly.
:cool:
 
You might try heating it up, a lot, like smoking hot. That melts the threadlock and it can expand the female thread size to loosen it. Then gently try it again. Or if it's too far gone try a slightly larger hex or a similar size torx bit. This may booger up the tool, so don't use one your in love with.

I've never used them but, there are also small screw extractors. Maybe others have experience. Random example below.
https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Stri...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207586720462&th=1

If none of that works, get out the drill and drill it out. You will probably need a new drive cup at that point.
 
Just drill the grub out carefully. Might save the part. But Parts are cheap enough to replace.
In the future use Blue TL sparingly and a quality Hex driver. Heat before wrenching. Crap happens. Hopefully only once.
Left hand Threaded bits and easy outs ... most of us don't have them. Cheaper to just replace the parts then invest in tools that you will never or rarely use again. Everyone has a a drill and bits on hand. Use that. It works.
 
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I'm assuming this is the grub screw that secures the hub adapter to the stub axle of the cvd via the pin? That is, the aluminum "hex" adapter to the steel axle. I have had success by placing the vehicle on a work bench, socket of appropriate size supporting the aluminium adapter under a flat side of the wheel hex, then use a punch and hammer to drive the pin out. Once the pin is gone, the grub won't have as much resistance to being removed. Plus, once you get the axle free'd from the plastic hub carrier, aluminum hex adapter and bearings, you're free to use as much heat as needed to get it out..careful not to ruin the heat treatment though. You may even be able to just run the grub screw right out the other end of the stub axle, not sure.
I've fought that battle a few times over the years,LOL.
Good luck!! And don't use red thread locker when you put it back together! LOL
 
Good point.
No TL is probably needed at all. (y)


Edit.


Arrma uses super duty Red Gorilla snot TL on these tiny fasteners. I don't know why. Just silly. Ruins most parts when wrenching.
I only use Blue if anything
Red is just for very large fasteners. Red is generally known to be not removeable. A permanent solution. Used mostly on sacrificial fasteners when removing.
Blue TL is to be used for fasteners as large as 3/4"!!!
Red is way overkill. :unsure:
 
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Best way I've found to heat up without melting plastic steering block is to stick a soder gun on the head of the screw for 10-15mins on high..they use lots of loc-tite from factory on those..if that don't work drill it out...might be able to hammer pin out off hex without getting screw loose..this is probly the worst screws on all the 6ds platforms to remove
 
I should have taken pictures before I put it back together. Iits not the screw head itself, but the piece that the grub screw goes into. It won't come out. T
InkedGrub screw.jpg

Just trying to not destroy it considering all of these things seem to be on back order.
 
SrC said:
Just drill the grub out carefully. Might save the part. But Parts are cheap enough to replace.
In the future use Blue TL sparingly and a quality Hex driver. Heat before wrenching. Crap happens. Hopefully only once.
Left hand Threaded bits and easy outs ... most of us don't have them. Cheaper to just replace the parts then invest in tools that you will never or rarely use again. Everyone has a a drill and bits on hand. Use that. It works.
Click to expand...
Good advice!! The stub axles aren't that expensive. I find that some of my rigs inherently need thread locker in those spots, and others don't.. not sure why. My TC Kronos is constantly losing those pins, well not losing, but whenever I pull a wheel, I see the pins working their way out..
SouthernFried said:
I should have taken pictures before I put it back together. Iits not the screw head itself, but the piece that the grub screw goes into. It won't come out. TView attachment 256636
Just trying to not destroy it considering all of these things seem to be on back order.
Click to expand...
Oops!! Here we are assuming you're talking about 6s..🤣🤣 Sorry, looks like you're working on a 4s.. no direct experience there.
 
SouthernFried said:
I should have taken pictures before I put it back together. Iits not the screw head itself, but the piece that the grub screw goes into. It won't come out. TView attachment 256636
Just trying to not destroy it considering all of these things seem to be on back order.
Click to expand...
Ohh not the screw I thought you were talking about.id heat with soder gun so ya don't melt plastic. Stick it on the head for 15 mins then try
 

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