Struggling to find outer diff grease in my area

[Just a hobby]

I have 2 very old grease guns also. One of them just spews out smelly oil now.
My current cars don't have any grease fittings anymore. Wish they did.
Heck, back in the day even my old 300D MB door hinges had grease fittings.

I remember my old man changing the oil in both cars and getting out the grease gun and doing the front end every oil change.

 

[SrC]

Yeah my dad would stand by the mechanic and watch him do every single fitting. If the guy missed just one of them he would say so. He knew where every single fitting was. Driveshafts, front end and all. Like 25+ fittings on his 60's Ford. Many mechanics used to do the steering ball joints only, the ones plainly visible. Then use so much Grease that the Boots blow up and would rip open and grease ends up all over.
Then the Ball joint is junk within 6 months from rust. My dad wasn't having none of that. He been there I guess.
Those days are over. All ball joints are perm sealed with supposed grease.

 

[Just a hobby]

Yeah my dad would stand by the mechanic and watch him do every single fitting. If the guy missed just in of them he would say so. He knew where every single fitting was. Driveshafts, front end and all. Like 25+ fittings on his 60's Ford. Many mechanics used to do the steering ball joints only, the ones plainly visible. Then use so much Grease that he Boots would rip open and grease ends up all over. Then the Ball joint is junk with in 6 months from rust.

My dad never trusted a auto mechanic, did is own tune ups. He picked up a Chelsea mechanic book for the car.
I learned alot.

 

[SrC]

Yeah my dad the same. He knew how and had the tools. But rather pay to do the simple but dirty oil changes and such. My father always had the factory manuals. I even have a few of them. Like with his new 77 Caddy Seville. Which I keep now still. It's in a garage in storage. I even have the OE window sticker. I start it up at least once a month. Not registered however.
I picked up and handled with OCI's and maintenance when I was 13. He showed me. Learned quick. Seemed simple to me as a kid. Spark plugs, timing light, tuning the carbs etc. That stuff is old school now. Ended up becoming a Toyota Dealer Tech in the 80's. Just to pay my College bills.

 

[KnowAir]

Yeah my dad the same. He knew how and had the tools. But rather pay to do the simple but dirtyoil changes and such.
I Picked up and handled with OCI's and maintenance when I was 13. He showed me. Learned quick. Seemed simple to me as a kid. Spark plugs, timing light, tuning the carbs etc. That stuff is old school now. Ended up becoming a Toyota Dealer Tech in the 80's. Just to pay my College bills.

Yep, I'll never pay someone $100 for $30 worth of materials and 20 minutes work..

 

[Just a hobby]

Yeah my dad the same. He knew how and had the tools. But rather pay to do the simple but dirtyoil changes and such.
I Picked up and handled with OCI's and maintenance when I was 13. He showed me. Learned quick. Seemed simple to me as a kid. Spark plugs, timing light, tuning the carbs etc. That stuff is old school now. Ended up becoming a Toyota Dealer Tech in the 80's. Just to pay my College bills.

Lots of goog memories!!
And life experience!!
Miss my Dad!!!!
Lost him to Glio Blastoma brain cancer in 94

Yep, I'll never pay someone $100 for $30 worth of materials and 20 minutes work..

And what they charged for a full break job

Yep, I'll never pay someone $100 for $30 worth of materials and 20 minutes work..

And what they charged for a full break job

 

[SrC]

Here, a decent local shop wants $420. to only replace 2 Rear rotors and Pads on my X's 2001 Avalon. They don't even replace pins or boots when needed, clean and grease the pins or any hardware. Just doing a "Brake Slap", as it's called in the industry. The classic Money Grab rip off. Using the cheapest low carbon chinesium Rotors. Lucky if they last through one Winter.
I've done it many times on this car years past. The correct way, in all of 45 minutes. Both sides. Buying $180.00 worth of quality parts myself. Including the complete hardware kit.
Dealers even Brake Slap. All the time. At double the price.

Edited.

 

[Just a hobby]

Lots of goog memories!!
And life experience!!
Miss my Dad!!!!
Lost him to Glio Blastoma brain cancer in 94

And what they charged for a full break job

And what they charged for a full break job

I took my first car 77 Buick regal blue with white roof and inside for a tune up just turned 18 and too trusting!! At the time I was limited to tools.
When I looked at the work they only changed 3 spark plugs. They said they were okay. But you charged me full price. And only 4 plugs were charged. I demanded the difference back. He laughed. I called the police, they listened and told the owner give this kid the difference of what was not replaced,and all the old parts. Bought all the parts I needed, when I got to the distributor they only charged the cap. Not even the thing that spins around inside, What ever its called.
Went back and thought it at the owner and flipped him and left.

Here, a decent local shop wants $420. to only replace 2 Rear rotors and Pads on my X's 2001 Avalon. They don't even replace pins or boots when needed, clean and grease the pins or any hardware. Just doing a "Brake Slap", as it's called in the industry. The classic rip off. I've done it many times on this car years past. The correct way, in all of 45 minutes. Both sides.
Dealers even Brake Slap. All the time. At double the price.

Soooo !!!

 

[SrC]

Yeah its called the Distributor Rotor. And they are so very cheap at that. Cap and rotor are always changed together because they wear into each other. Sometimes coming as a set in one box for this reason. How it was back then with these car parts.
At the dealer guys would avoid changing that one or two hard spark plugs and leave them there, Tossing the new ones not installed. How the older seasoned dealer techs hustled for their $Flat Rate$. A dirty business that I got out of.
Being a DIY'er versus a pro, there is sometimes a fine line difference, in how you work.
A job done best is with your own 2 hands 99% of the time. Because in the end there is only one right way to do the job.
Not all current Grease guns can be filled, then used this way. The plunger needing to be effective and within Cartridge's tube in most cases.
The old school Guns usually did it that way above however.

 

[SrC]

Hi all

Just been looking for some grease to go around the diff in my vorteks. I have heard that the Lucas red n tacky is very popular however the only in stock stuff I could find is this 5th wheel version. Would this be the same?

View attachment 311221
Are there any other common greases that I could find in automotive stores? Marine grease?

Also it is the plastic diff.

Thanks

Im sure that above will be fine.
If it says NLGI rated, all the better. Being a High pressure grease is the key.

I think anything is better than the Stock Arrma Diff grease that comes out the box. That crap stinks like it's Pork fat from the "Wet Market". Probaly not even remotely a grease. Its anyones guess. I never run it with the stock grease. Clean that crap off .
Sometimes I question the stock Diff Silicone Oil. Out the box it appears to be milky and clumpy sometimes. I even found metal chards floating in new unused diffs before. I never run the stock diff oils. Cleaning it all out. With any of my 6s rigs when they were new. And going forward.

 

[vortekyteky]

Thanks everyone for the input

 

[Johnny b]

Great read! You guys are bringing back memories. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, timing lights and Chilton manuals. Put bucket seats, air shocks, Cragar ss wheels and bfgs on the 75 nova. Blacked out lovers and grill and a nice Jensen cassette player.....King of the hill! Good times!

 

[Just a hobby]

Yeah its called the Distributor Rotor. And they are so very cheap at that. Cap and rotor are always changed together because they wear into each other. Sometimes coming as a set in one box for this reason. How it was back then with these car parts.
At the dealer guys would avoid changing that one or two hard spark plugs and leave them there, Tossing the new ones not installed. How the older seasoned dealer techs hustled for their $Flat Rate$. A dirty business that I got out of.
Being a DIY'er versus a pro, there is sometimes a fine line difference, in how you work.
A job done best is with your own 2 hands 99% of the time. Because in the end there is only one right way to do the job.
Not all current Grease guns can be filled, then used this way. The plunger needing to be effective and within Cartridge's tube in most cases.
The old school Guns usually did it that way above however.

First and last visit to a auto shop, lesson learned. If I remember correctly, my dad's grease gun had to be hand filled from a oil can looking container. I loved filling it, loved the smell of oil,grease, gas, tires shops. My back learned to hate bending over a fender.

First and last visit to a auto shop, lesson learned. If I remember correctly, my dad's grease gun had to be hand filled from a oil can looking container. I loved filling it, loved the smell of oil,grease, gas, tires shops. My back learned to hate bending over a fender.

Distributor rotor, big name for a small part. Thrives in the auto field