Suspension rocker post upgrade

[Seabeemarine]

I have had my Nero for week now and broke the rocker post on my second pack off-roading. My friend has an erevo and realized that his posts are about the same as the Nero with the Nero weighing four pounds more than the erevo.
With the Nero being new, parts are not in the shops yet, let alone being $8 for the posts. I went to the local Home Depot and picked up some stainless steel screws an brass washers. The brass washers have to be drilled out and is a pain to do. Worked out perfectly and only costs $5 to do all four corners. I did a test and the brass washers are not needed.

 

[Afro Samurai]

wow...very good...I was just thinking of this when I placed my order for new posts...yeah...seems like you may have fixed a weak point...good job...

 

[Seabeemarine]

wow...very good...I was just thinking of this when I placed my order for new posts...yeah...seems like you may have fixed a weak point...good job...

Thank you. Being stainless steel, and not hollow, they should not break.

 

[Andynero]

Thank you. Being stainless steel, and not hollow, they should not break.

Hi I just broke the rocker post today.
I'm wondering how you take out the rocker post screw from the cantilever hole. Furthermore I noticed that I also broke the ball joint. Now I did get the ball joint set as I knew that it was a weak point of the nero. I don't know how I can take out the metal piece that goes into the ball joint.
Is it just forcing it out, or another way?
Thanks for your help.

 

[mrfurious40k]

Hi I just broke the rocker post today.
I'm wondering how you take out the rocker post screw from the cantilever hole. Furthermore I noticed that I also broke the ball joint. Now I did get the ball joint set as I knew that it was a weak point of the nero. I don't know how I can take out the metal piece that goes into the ball joint.
Is it just forcing it out, or another way?
Thanks for your help.

Just grab the metal sleeve with some needle nose pliers at the top and bottom and rotate slightly. The ball joints are soft so as soon as the wide parts of the metal sleeve get past the lip of the hole, they pop right out.

 

[Andynero]

Just grab the metal sleeve with some needle nose pliers at the top and bottom and rotate slightly. The ball joints are soft so as soon as the wide parts of the metal sleeve get past the lip of the hole, they pop right out.

Hi thanks for the reply.
Now what about the rockerpost? How do I remove them?

 

[Seabeemarine]

Can you post a picture to show how the post broke? I just need to see how it actually broke for the easiest way to solve this problem.

 

[Andynero]

Can you post a picture to show how the post broke? I just need to see how it actually broke for the easiest way to solve this problem.

View attachment 2970
Top pic shows the sheared off rocker post that I need to take out and bottom one is the other side that I want to take out in order to upgrade.

Thanks!

 

[Andynero]

View attachment 2968 View attachment 2970
Top pic shows the sheared off rocker post that I need to take out and bottom one is the other side that I want to take out in order to upgrade.

Thanks!

Ok so I figured out how to take out the broken piece of the rockerpost screw from the body.
But I can't figure out how I can take out the non broken rockerpost screw from the other side. There are two ballbearings on top and bottom where the rockerpost screw sits inside of.
I'm sure it's a simple thing thanks!

 

[Seabeemarine]

Easy. Take the chrome tool that comes with the truck. It is the 4 way tool that you can take the wheels off with. One end is the right size socket to take out the post.

View attachment 2968 View attachment 2970
Top pic shows the sheared off rocker post that I need to take out and bottom one is the other side that I want to take out in order to upgrade.

Thanks!

Ok so I figured out how to take out the broken piece of the rockerpost screw from the body.
But I can't figure out how I can take out the non broken rockerpost screw from the other side. There are two ballbearings on top and bottom where the rockerpost screw sits inside of.
I'm sure it's a simple thing thanks!

You should be able to just push the rod out of the other end of the button screw.

 

[Schepper]

I have had my Nero for week now and broke the rocker post on my second pack off-roading. My friend has an erevo and realized that his posts are about the same as the Nero with the Nero weighing four pounds more than the erevo.
With the Nero being new, parts are not in the shops yet, let alone being $8 for the posts. I went to the local Home Depot and picked up some stainless steel screws an brass washers. The brass washers have to be drilled out and is a pain to do. Worked out perfectly and only costs $5 to do all four corners. I did a test and the brass washers are not needed.

I'm just wondering what are you using the washers for? and why did you choose brass over stainless steel?

 

[Seabeemarine]

I'm just wondering what are you using the washers for? and why did you choose brass over stainless steel?

Brass is cheaper and easier to drill than stainless steel. That's all really.

 

[Cr3pitus]

This is a good find. When I broke the bolt in my cantilever that goes into the rear diff housing I ended up drilling it out and I used a Revo bolt to replace it. Diameter is exactly the same confirmed by calipers. Only difference is it doesn't has a non threaded portion on the bottom side of the bolt like the Nero bolt does, but that doesn't matter. It's nice to know this bolt works because every hobby shop is going to have it whereas none have Nero parts yet. Also just fyi that whole rear diff housing can be found on amazing for 2 bucks which blew my mind.

 

[PPS-RC]

This is a good find. When I broke the bolt in my cantilever that goes into the rear diff housing I ended up drilling it out and I used a Revo bolt to replace it. Diameter is exactly the same confirmed by calipers. Only difference is it doesn't has a non threaded portion on the bottom side of the bolt like the Nero bolt does, but that doesn't matter. It's nice to know this bolt works because every hobby shop is going to have it whereas none have Nero parts yet. Also just fyi that whole rear diff housing can be found on amazing for 2 bucks which blew my mind.

Neat! did you get any pictures of the install?

 

[Cr3pitus]

Unfortunately I didn't, I was in the middle of a bash session so I didn't have time to document the experiment. When I replace the bulkhead with the new one I'll be able to retroactively show the process.

 

[NITROMAN2000]

I broke my cantilever bolt on my NERO


The other three were bent. Those are the REVO post on the ends.

 

[NITROMAN2000]

Well I went ahead and installed the traxxas revo rocker posts.

Used 13/64 drill bit to enlarge the hole
Used the 4-way wrench to install the new rocker post. The threads for the 4mm screw are not as deep on the traxxas parts. I believe this is the secret on why they don't snap off like the ARRMA parts. You also need to use a shorter 4mm screw on the top bearing. I used traxxas sealed bearings and screws to complete my install.

I can't notice any difference between ARRMA or the Traxxas REVO parts. Front is smonth rear is a little sticky exactly like the truck was before. The rockers move very smooth. Now I can go back ton running the NERO.

 

[Erex]

When I broke my rocker post I use the 30 millimeter Bolt And in placed and I used washers for an air conditioning clutch for a Ford. About the GK post studs and they're not tapped as deep so they should be less apt to shear

 

[NITROMAN2000]

I beat my NERO pretty hard yesterday with the Traxxas REVO rocker posts. Big jumps, tumbles and large application of the throttle finger. The body I reinforced with drywall tape and good and rubberized spray (rustoleum) brand looks like its absorbing the damage. Lots of 2-wheel action. Looked like a monster jam commercial. Green Nero is holding up well. Had no other issues with the truck and I really it pushed hard.

 

[VerticalChallenge]

I beat my NERO pretty hard yesterday with the Traxxas REVO rocker posts. Big jumps, tumbles and large application of the throttle finger. The body I reinforced with drywall tape and good and rubberized spray (rustoleum) brand looks like its absorbing the damage. ...

Thanks for the tip. Is LeakSeal Clear Spray the product you used? After trashing my Savage Flux XS body, I am worried about the Nero body with a $50+ price tag to replace.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-11-oz-LeakSeal-Clear-Spray-265495/203165633