Talion Talion v4 day 0

[Cr3pitus]

@jcocanour I'm actually already there haha. I used to have a Nero and have a lot of stuff left over from it. I first used the tekno balls and rod end/perch combo and although it was great I didn't like how it lowered ride height. Replaced those with my Nero gear last week and like it.
@drjim that would probably work nicely I say go for it!

 

[Cr3pitus]

Good ol savox 1210sg finally died on me after like 3 years of abuse. Splurged on a protek 370tbl so I could direct the external Bec to clean things up a bit and simplify. The one thing that continues to be my nightmare is the esc fan. Literally break one every time I go out if I take any moderate sized jumps! Honestly just not going to run it anymore since it's starting to get cold and I'll throw on a temperature sensor when it gets warmer outside and just check temp between packs for now.

 

[Cr3pitus]

I did a thing. M2c chassis, hinge pins and droop screws, hobbywing max6 and 4985 1650kv. Mostly just because. Stock chassis had a very very slight bend (maybe 2 degree rear turn down) upon removal, couldn't even tell when it was all mounted up. Shouldn't be a problem anymore. Looks like a 20t pinion will be mid 60s so starting with that but also have a 17 and 19 I never used for my Nero in case. Before anyone asks the reason I made a series adapter instead of soldering the esc in series is because I'm trying to shift to all single 6s packs and phase out my old 2*3s packs. Hopefully can test tomorrow after work!

 

[Notorious J]

I did a thing. M2c chassis, hinge pins and droop screws, hobbywing max6 and 4985 1650kv. Mostly just because. Stock chassis had a very very slight bend (maybe 2 degree rear turn down) upon removal, couldn't even tell when it was all mounted up. Shouldn't be a problem anymore. Looks like a 20t pinion will be mid 60s so starting with that but also have a 17 and 19 I never used for my Nero in case. Before anyone asks the reason I made a series adapter instead of soldering the esc in series is because I'm trying to shift to all single 6s packs and phase out my old 2*3s packs. Hopefully can test tomorrow after work!

You're going to love the M2C chassis. It's the biggest game changer so far. I just received my M2C 6mm 7075 rear tower, and it's hard to believe that they could make it so perfect. Gonna be a busy Canadian Thanksgiving weekend!

 

[Cr3pitus]

You're going to love the M2C chassis. It's the biggest game changer so far. I just received my M2C 6mm 7075 rear tower, and it's hard to believe that they could make it so perfect. Gonna be a busy Canadian Thanksgiving weekend!

Awesome! I am excited about the peace of mind from the chassis. I don't do 90ft air like duperbash so I think I just won't have to worry about it anymore when I do my 6ft high jumps.

Has there been a definitive statement on whether or not is best practice to continue using the tower to tower brace with the m2c chassis or to ditch it? I'm running stock shock towers but do have hot racing chassis braces front and rear..

 

[Notorious J]

Awesome! I am excited about the peace of mind from the chassis. I don't do 90ft air like duperbash so I think I just won't have to worry about it anymore when I do my 6ft high jumps.

Has there been a definitive statement on whether or not is best practice to continue using the tower to tower brace with the m2c chassis or to ditch it? I'm running stock shock towers but do have hot racing chassis braces front and rear..

Most say its unnecessary. The chassis braces help alot. I fabbed a tube that I tie to the braces. No connection to the gear boxes or towers. Do I think it helps? Absolutely. After some crazy high jumps, one of my ties is usually snapped. This means there's a lot of flex happening. This is on a swb Notorious, so I imagine that force would be multiplied on a Kraton. Two ties each front and back. So far, at least one time is still holding front and rear when I'm done. It looks "ghetto" but I know its helping.

 

[Cr3pitus]

Think I got lucky. I've been trying to find the source of this squeak when the rear compresses and I couldn't figure it out forever. Tonight I went to do a pre bash inspection and saw that my wing was strangely loose. But all the screws were in tight? Finally realized that the screws which go through the wing mount and into The diff housing through the rear shock tower were broken off. So my rear shock tower has only been supported by two screws for like two weeks! And somehow neither the shock tower nor the diff housing took any damage. Of course the only screws of appropriate length that I have are button head which is not ideal for this location but it's better than the literal nothing that was there. I'll drive tomorrow and order a screw kit off Jenny's. So if you have a weird rear squeak check those screws!