Talion The losi 8ight is here!!!!

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Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
I know this an e word/Arrma thread but just had to show off my new truggy that has been added to compliment my talion. This is my first nitro and second RC so any thoughts and advice would be much appreciated to those who have experience with this platform???.

 

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I grabbed one of those this winter! By all accounts it's a solid nitro and a great value.

I've not even fired it up to break it in yet, the weather has kept me from taking any RCs out.

Just from my research online I can share this:
The servos are marginal but good enough to run the truggy for a bit while you save up for nice ones.

The diffs come with two spider gears, you'll need a diff rebuild kit that has all four spiders and cross shafts. You can't double up the rebuild kits sold for the RTR as the cross pins don't have a relief cut in the to fit together in the diff cup.
Or just run it with the stock set up, I'm not sure how much weaker it really is.

The .28 engine is a work horse.
Consider ditching the pull start as the one way bearing can give you an air leak that causes tuning nightmares. You'll need a back plate, lower engine mounts and a bump box to make the conversion. I believe the 8ight T .4 engine mounts are the correct ones to use with a bump box.
Also watch a tutorial on sealing nitro engines.
Set up a throttle return spring as insurance against run a ways.

That's all I remember off the top of my head, hope it helps
 
I grabbed one of those this winter! By all accounts it's a solid nitro and a great value.

I've not even fired it up to break it in yet, the weather has kept me from taking any RCs out.

Just from my research online I can share this:
The servos are marginal but good enough to run the truggy for a bit while you save up for nice ones.

The diffs come with two spider gears, you'll need a diff rebuild kit that has all four spiders and cross shafts. You can't double up the rebuild kits sold for the RTR as the cross pins don't have a relief cut in the to fit together in the diff cup.
Or just run it with the stock set up, I'm not sure how much weaker it really is.

The .28 engine is a work horse.
Consider ditching the pull start as the one way bearing can give you an air leak that causes tuning nightmares. You'll need a back plate, lower engine mounts and a bump box to make the conversion. I believe the 8ight T .4 engine mounts are the correct ones to use with a bump box.
Also watch a tutorial on sealing nitro engines.
Set up a throttle return spring as insurance against run a ways.

That's all I remember off the top of my head, hope it helps
You remember more than I know about nitro! ??
 
Looks good. I have a x-ray xt8 truggy you will love it they go, nothing like electric though I’m in the process of gathering info as to what it will take to convert this to 6s
DB3418F2-800E-4C1A-8A91-5A6515BF7729.jpeg
 
You remember more than I know about nitro! ??
I'm sure you'll find all the info you need on the nitro forums, this is a very popular truggy with racers and bashers. Just google 'em and also binge on youtube videos, it's all out there.

Last thing to add is that these RTR engines are a great candidate for sending to a pro tuner. After running it until it starts loosing power you can get it re-pinched and port/polish for less than 100 bucks. You'll have an engine that runs better/stronger than new.

Nitro is soo cool ?
 
I grabbed one of those this winter! By all accounts it's a solid nitro and a great value.

I've not even fired it up to break it in yet, the weather has kept me from taking any RCs out.

Just from my research online I can share this:
The servos are marginal but good enough to run the truggy for a bit while you save up for nice ones.

The diffs come with two spider gears, you'll need a diff rebuild kit that has all four spiders and cross shafts. You can't double up the rebuild kits sold for the RTR as the cross pins don't have a relief cut in the to fit together in the diff cup.
Or just run it with the stock set up, I'm not sure how much weaker it really is.

The .28 engine is a work horse.
Consider ditching the pull start as the one way bearing can give you an air leak that causes tuning nightmares. You'll need a back plate, lower engine mounts and a bump box to make the conversion. I believe the 8ight T .4 engine mounts are the correct ones to use with a bump box.
Also watch a tutorial on sealing nitro engines.
Set up a throttle return spring as insurance against run a ways.

That's all I remember off the top of my head, hope it helps
Yeah so I heard about the point 28 engine BOTAJELL said so in one of his videos.
 
I grabbed one of those this winter! By all accounts it's a solid nitro and a great value.

I've not even fired it up to break it in yet, the weather has kept me from taking any RCs out.

Just from my research online I can share this:
The servos are marginal but good enough to run the truggy for a bit while you save up for nice ones.

The diffs come with two spider gears, you'll need a diff rebuild kit that has all four spiders and cross shafts. You can't double up the rebuild kits sold for the RTR as the cross pins don't have a relief cut in the to fit together in the diff cup.
Or just run it with the stock set up, I'm not sure how much weaker it really is.

The .28 engine is a work horse.
Consider ditching the pull start as the one way bearing can give you an air leak that causes tuning nightmares. You'll need a back plate, lower engine mounts and a bump box to make the conversion. I believe the 8ight T .4 engine mounts are the correct ones to use with a bump box.
Also watch a tutorial on sealing nitro engines.
Set up a throttle return spring as insurance against run a ways.

That's all I remember off the top of my head, hope it helps
My diffs lasted half a gallon. Its $40 per diff to rebuild. Needs a new case and everything to fit. That's out drives and bearings for the difference in size as well. When you do change the center diff for a 45 tooth spur or when your clutch bell wears out and I will. You lose about 12mph with a replacement because they don't make them anymore.
 
Welcome to the 8ight family. It's a durable platform out of the box however, it has its downfalls as well. If you don't know already, the RTR is a cheaper version of the 3.0 platform. Meaning,
1) suspension has no adjustments
2) F/C/R diffs has 2 gears instead of 4 gears
3) steering Ackerman has bushings instead of bearings
The good news, if you want to up grade these parts you can. Majority of the parts from the 8ight-T and buggy 4.0 are a direct bolt on. Just a warning though, if you upgrading the differentials, you gonna need everything from the 4.0, diff case, gear set, ring and pinion and the outdrive cups. Not gonna go into detail with that however, I'm willing to help ya out if you need it.

My recommendations before you run it, check your gear mesh in the rear differential. On mine, under hard braking, I was hearing something grinding, took the diff case apart and found the pinion was grinding the teeth down on the ring gear. There's shims on the differential bearings (inner axle drive cups), my shims was on the wrong side.

Lock-tite your wheel nuts. They not serrated and will come loose. Last thing you want, is a wheel falling off.

First upgrades that I will do if I was starting fresh again will be this....

1) chassis guards

2) Turnbuckles and suspension balls from the 8ight-T 4.0. (Fyi, suspension links from the buggy will not work. Truggies are wider and longer than buggies). These will save your tires from going bald fast. RTR has too much camber in the rear out of the box.

3) Get a rubber sealed bearing kit for the 8ight-T 3.0 from either Fast Eddy or Avid

4) change out the exhaust. Anything will be better than having a silicone exhaust coupler.

5) Servos...the stock ones are alright to get you up and running but, they're weak and expect one to go out in six months, depending how often you drive it.

Daily tips: Always have extra glow plugs, always have your cross wrench available, always have a flathead screwdriver (always have to tune you the engine)

Enjoy and have fun with it, it's a powerhouse

Any questions, I'm willing to help you out as best as I can...
 

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How to you compare this to Talion. I am in a bind to buy either one, and can't decide. I never had a nitro and never desired one, but this RTR is cheap and I have time to do the things needed to run it. What is the running weight of the Losi? thx.
 
How to you compare this to Talion. I am in a bind to buy either one, and can't decide. I never had a nitro and never desired one, but this RTR is cheap and I have time to do the things needed to run it. What is the running weight of the Losi? thx.
I would recommend going for this but, that being said the 3.0 parts are some what hard to get now since they haven't made this in 5 years. If I was you I would go for a kyosho or a habao. But this is a good buy and the parts are still available if you go diging on the internet and forums. And this has nothing on the talion this goes about I want to say 30 mph but there is nothing like a nitro. The smell and the sound really are something to be pleased with. But just don't put to much money into this thing like I'm doing. Oh and the talion. Is gonna go up for sale soon since I have the nitro bug.
 
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