Typhon TLR Typhon front skid plate / mini bumper

[Engineer]

When I got my TLR Tuned Typhon, I knew I didn’t want a big basher bumper on the front but I wanted a little more protection up front along with some protection for the chassis underneath. I installed an RPM skid plate on the rear but was searching around and struggling to find something small. I was almost resigned to cutting down a TBone bumper but then remembered that Arrma had released a rear skid plate and that set the wheels turning in my head. I had installed one on my Kraton EXB and visually it seemed it would work so I ordered another one up. The verdict? It will work pretty well with minimal disturbance to the lines of the buggy:

 

[Boggs3010]

Fits up pretty nicely, my Tlr Typhon should arrive tomorrow. Pretty good deal on eBay. 400 free shipping and 20.00 in eBay bucks. 5% promo from eBay.

 

[SrC]

Sold. Good find.
Need 2 of them. TLRT a must.
Small like I wanted. Sids with a small turn up.
RPM or EXB bumper wont cut it for me either.

 

[Boggs3010]

Part ordered off eBay. Thanks again.

 

[arrma only fans]

is the tlr typhon good for bashing?

 

[SrC]

^^^
NO.
The Pills/ blocks and Hinge pins seem to be one great weak point. Bashers are breaking these, (Mostly fronts) Better to have a RTR Typhon IMHO. And add an EXB bumper and F/R EXB or other alloy braces to it. The TLRT is designed to be lightweight, running 4s power. So plastic braces are used. This also gives some flex to to the chassis which has its advantages for track running. No bumpers used for track running. Works against you. If buying the TLRT for the Bling alone, don't.
TLRT is a Race ready rig roller out the box.
99% of TLRT's will never even see a track. It does make a great speed runner platform though as another alternative due to better adjustability of Roll center and castor , camber and toe angles. Yet most bashers will never even adjust them. Or know how to dial them in. Which is only a benefit for smaller confined technical track running in competition.
If you want a Race spec example of an Arrma buggy setup like it is supposed to be, the TLRT would round out your RC collection nicely . But it is just not a basher rig. IMHO

 

[SrC]

I ended up putting Arrma SS skids both front and rear. @Engineer turned me onto these. I believe he only uses the rear SS kid. Being Heavier than the Plastic/Nylon options, I felt that having equal added weight both F and R keeps the rig equally balanced. SS will be more durable in the long run and won't Flex with impacts. For a basher rig I can see a Full Front bumper skid being more appropriate. I won't be doing any big air with my TLRT. I'll leave that for my Kraton and Noto.
My gut feeling in regards.
I did end up using EXB F/R braces. The stocker plastic ones were poor fitting. The chassis was bowed at the center, out the box, because of the poor fit. And the Front brace was already stripped at the Steering Top Plate from the factory. EXB was the cheapest alternative, instead of M2C or HR. And the bow in the chassis was eliminated with the EXB braces. Arrma QC of some of their composite plastics leaves much to be desired unfortunately. At least in critical areas that may matter.

 

[parcou]

I ended up putting Arrma SS skids both front and rear. @Engineer turned me onto these. I believe he only uses the rear SS kid. Being Heavier than the Plastic/Nylon options, I felt that having equal added weight both F and R keeps the rig equally balanced. SS will be more durable in the long run and won't Flex with impacts. For a basher rig I can see a Full Front bumper skid being more appropriate. I won't be doing any big air with my TLRT. I'll leave that for my Kraton and Noto.
My gut feeling in regards.
I did end up using EXB F/R braces. The stocker plastic ones were poor fitting. The chassis was bowed at the center, out the box, because of the poor fit. And the Front brace was already stripped at the Steering Top Plate from the factory. EXB was the cheapest alternative, instead of M2C or HR. And the bow in the chassis was eliminated with the EXB braces. Arrma QC of some of their composite plastics leaves much to be desired unfortunately. At least in critical areas that may matter.

View attachment 188129

Love it...unfortunately I am bashing mine...but I am not sending it or anything crazy...will run it on our country dirt track. SrC, I will look into these what do you mean by block & pills?

Both you @Engineer when you added the side plate did you use the same screws or needed to go longer is so what size did you go with?

Thx

 

[Engineer]

Love it...unfortunately I am bashing mine...but I am not sending it or anything crazy...will run it on our country dirt track. SrC, I will look into these what do you mean by block & pills?

Both you @Engineer when you added the side plate did you use the same screws or needed to go longer is so what size did you go with?

Thx

Same sized screws as stock.

 

[SrC]

^^^+1.
The the SS skid plates are stamped with a countersink at the 4 holes. The stocker screws still have plenty enough length into the Bulkheads.

Love it...unfortunately I am bashing mine...but I am not sending it or anything crazy...will run it on our country dirt track. SrC, I will look into these what do you mean by block & pills?

Both you @Engineer when you added the side plate did you use the same screws or needed to go longer is so what size did you go with?

Thx

The Blocks and pills I am referring to are the inserts where the upper and lower hinge pins throughout the chassis seat into. They are changeable to alter castor , camber, roll center, rear toe, and other chassis adjustments. For much finer dialing in on a track.. Just that they seem less forgiving for hard big air bashing. Food for thought. Seems to be the most common TLRT breakage compared to a standard RTR Basher Typhon. (not using them)
The EXB or RTR related hinge pin parts will fit if you wanted or needed to swap them out. But goes against why one would buy the TLRT in the first place. Losing the Tunability.

 

[parcou]

^^^+1.
The the SS skid plates are stamped with a countersink at the 4 holes. The stocker screws still have plenty enough length into the Bulkheads.

The Blocks and pills I am referring to are the inserts where the upper and lower hinge pins throughout the chassis seat into. They are changeable to alter castor , camber, roll center, rear toe, and other chassis adjustments. For much finer dialing in on a track.. Just that they seem less forgiving for hard big air bashing. Food for thought. Seems to be the most common TLRT breakage compared to a standard RTR Basher Typhon. (not using them)

Thx and good info. I did cross-reference with M2C looks like I need to wait for them to make a set for the TLR. They have the standard stronger 67.5mm length but only ones they have for the Typhon v4-v5. Looking at the exploded view of the TLR the upper/lower lengths are different (part number also from v5) and all at the v5 length they sell not for TLR length....darn!

LOL

 

[SrC]

Yeah, all the TLRT hinge pins are shorter to work with the inserts. HH doesn't even sell them yet. JennysRC has them, But some have stated TA 1/8 hingepins are an exact fit.