Notorious TP 4050 2100kv

[332_RC]

Heard these are powerful super torquey motors. 40mmx81.3mm can. Pricey but I know nothing about them.

 

[gotnitro]

Yeah

 

[Garcbomber]

Gonna make some heat in a monster truck so a 160A+ ESC will be recommended on 6S.

 

[332_RC]

Would stock spektrum 150a esc handle or need MMX 6s esc

 

[Diem Turner]

Would stock spektrum 150a esc handle or need MMX 6s esc

That will depend on your gearing, driving style and ambient temps. If I could make a recommendation, I have it on good authority that the 4070 1700KV is the way to go. The larger can and lower KV should help keep the temperatures and amp draw down (gearing, driving style and ambient temps notwithstanding). It's worth trying out. If it can't hack it, best bet would be something like a Castle MMX8S or Hobbywing Max6.

Not that the 4050 isn't a perfectly capable line of motors but in a 6S BLX vehicle, I'd err on the side of more cubic inches (larger motor = more cubic inches as an analogy to combustion engines).

Whichever way you decide to go, make sure to get an 8mm shaft and not 5mm. The 8mm pinions have m5 grubs instead of the anemic m4 grubs you typically find in their 5mm counterparts (there are exceptions to this rule, I'm only speaking in generalities) and, while this only makes a 0.5mm difference in the hex driver you use (2.5 vs 2mm), you'll be happier about those 0.5mm than most any other measurement that small you'll ever encounter (unless you're a machinist in which case we're talking about the difference between a 1500 and 15000ft peak). You can crank the grubs down tighter and run far less risk stripping them out during extraction...and drilling those out is doable but not really what I'd call "fun".

 

[Matt05]

I run the 4070 1700kv in my Kraton XL with a MMX8s. Great running set up. My brother has a Kraton with an MMX8s and a 4070 1580kv. It seems like his usually runs a little warmer, but we haven’t got to bash them side by side yet.

 

[332_RC]

Thanks guys. That's why I posted. I wasn't sure.
And on a side note question. I know arrma recommends min battery specs. 5000 50c min 5000 100c recommended. I know that all that equals out amps to the esc. So would a 4000 100c(400a) it would be fine just less amps going in. Not necessarily what I would run on above set ups, just on stock motor esc. The batteries I run are 7200 80c(576a) 4s & a 6000 100c(600a)

 

[Diem Turner]

Thanks guys. That's why I posted. I wasn't sure.
And on a side note question. I know arrma recommends min battery specs. 5000 50c min 5000 100c recommended. I know that all that equals out amps to the esc. So would a 4000 100c(400a) it would be fine just less amps going in. Not necessarily what I would run on above set ups, just on stock motor esc. The batteries I run are 7200 80c(576a) 4s & a 6000 100c(600a)

Don't pay c-rates any mind (or not much mind to be precise). There is no standardized methodology to measure c-rate so every manufacturer just does their own thing (I'm sure they could produce a scenario they tested under which their battery achieves a c-rate of 150, but that probably involves really short bursts in the fractional second range). Just to illustrate the point: Take the G-Ace 15000mAh 3S battery rated at 100C continuous/200C Burst rating according to the specs. That's 1500A/3000A respectively according to "the formula". How realistic do you think it is to pass 1500A through two 8AWG wires for more than a second? Exactly. By that time you're probably looking at melting/evaporating power leads and/or battery tabs. With what you're running you really don't need to worry about having first rate batteries as you're not looking to max out your system (you really don't want to do that for longer than 8-10 seconds at a time and is a performance area typically reserved for speed running...MAYBE drag but even those hits are less than two seconds).

Most lipos should work just fine, unless you're scraping the bottom of the no-name who-did-what-to-who? barrell. The CNHL G+ line is a great low price high (but not highest) performance place to go for good lipos. They're generally viewed as the all-round best bang for your buck lipos. FWIW, they're rated at 70C and have propelled even many a great speed run vehicle on this forum.

 

[332_RC]

That makes sense to me.
Went back & looked up the 4070 1700kv. That would be well more than enough for a Notorious & it's wheelbase. It'd just flip over all the time

 

[332_RC]

That will depend on your gearing, driving style and ambient temps. If I could make a recommendation, I have it on good authority that the 4070 1700KV is the way to go. The larger can and lower KV should help keep the temperatures and amp draw down (gearing, driving style and ambient temps notwithstanding). It's worth trying out. If it can't hack it, best bet would be something like a Castle MMX8S or Hobbywing Max6.

Not that the 4050 isn't a perfectly capable line of motors but in a 6S BLX vehicle, I'd err on the side of more cubic inches (larger motor = more cubic inches as an analogy to combustion engines).

Whichever way you decide to go, make sure to get an 8mm shaft and not 5mm. The 8mm pinions have m5 grubs instead of the anemic m4 grubs you typically find in their 5mm counterparts (there are exceptions to this rule, I'm only speaking in generalities) and, while this only makes a 0.5mm difference in the hex driver you use (2.5 vs 2mm), you'll be happier about those 0.5mm than most any other measurement that small you'll ever encounter (unless you're a machinist in which case we're talking about the difference between a 1500 and 15000ft peak). You can crank the grubs down tighter and run far less risk stripping them out during extraction...and drilling those out is doable but not really what I'd call "fun".

I read some more on the TP4070. Impressive motors. Yeah I want more cubic inches. You got 1700kv in a Kraton. I've wanted to build a Kraton slider for a while. Maybe that's a better motor for more wheelbase. Would a 2080kv 4070 just be too much? On 6s ? I would plan on the MMX8S esc & possible gear changes as it would be a slider