Typhon Typhon BLX vs Mega

[iep]

I'm looking to get a Typhon but am swithering on two options:

1. Buy the Mega and fit a Hobbywing MAX10 ESC and 3660 motor (I already have the ESC so only need to buy the motor)
2. Just by the BLX version

Previous brushless cars I've bought have always needed a replacement ESC and motor because the stock brushless have been poor. So, I guess two questions:

1. Are the stock ESC and Motor in the Typhon brushless any good?
2. Aside from motor and ESC, what other differences exist between the Mega and the BLX (Pinion and Spur at least I guess).

Thanks,

iep

 

[NewSensei]

The new models all have new electronics. I have a kraton 6s and a converted senton mega to 3x...that said, I'd happily buy any of the 3s line

 

[iep]

Thanks for that.

I've noticed that, with other manufacturers, the brushed models often feature a host of other 'downgrades' compared to the brushless (bushes rather than ball bearings etc).

Do the Arrma Mega 4x4 versions have any other 'downgrades' compared to the BLX versions other than motor/esc/pinion/spur?

Ta,

iep

 

[Yonic]

1. Are the stock ESC and Motor in the Typhon brushless any good?
2. Aside from motor and ESC, what other differences exist between the Mega and the BLX (Pinion and Spur at least I guess).

1. Yes they are good IMO (i only have the esc, never tired the 3v motor, but i assume it is fine just as the prev one)
2. the motor mount/case, the slipper/spur, the slipper shaft, the center driveshaft support, the metal links and motor heatsink and fan

The first 3 items would be a must IMO, the rest not so much.

The Typhon Mega does get some 3s parts that the other Mega cars do not get, like metal hexes and the stiffer springs.

 

[Grimbles]

Typhon mega is great if you want an upgrade project (for me this is the fun), but you will spend more upgrading than if you just buy a 3s. My typhon 550 is upgraded to brushless (hobbywing ezrun 10 sct so 4s capable). A few points:

1) all bearings should be replaced with rubber sealed (the new kits just released are);
2) high speed driveshaft carrier not on mega - worth it for brushless;
3) mega turnbuckles/rod ends are single moulded plastic pIeces and snap in seconds on 3s power;
4) mega diffs have a little bit of grease only, need disassembling and filling with silicon oil;
5) my mega had basically no oil in the shocks and needed refilling;
6) mega comes with a plastic motor moubt, need to replace with metal for 3s power;
7) mega 5kg steering servo is guff and needs replacing;
8) mega diff inputs must be replaced with metal versions as they snap quick on 3s: and
9) mega slipper doesn't hold up long to 3s so the slipper and spur and pinion should be replaced with 0.8 mod 3s kit.

Just fyi mega diff input/teeth differ from 3s, giving slightly lower rations on the mega with the same pinion and spur... and you have to rememebr to buy the right parts!

For me though the fun is in the project, disassembling, tinkering etc!

 

[iep]

Thanks Yonic,
That's really helpful. With that list of differences, I think the 3S version makes most sense. I'll keep saving

Thanks Grimbles, that is comprehensive list.

Even if buying the 3S, I'm sure I'll find plenty of need to tinker with it.

Cheers,

iep

 

[jondilly1974]

So the V3 units are going to change this answer. If you’re looking at a V2, buy the 3S, hands down. There is over $100 of value between a V2 Mega and 3S.

But, on the V3, the answer will depend on wether or not you plan on going to 4S. If yes, get the Mega and toss in the 4S system you desire. If the answer is 3S is all you need, just buy the 3S.

 

[Yonic]

1) all bearings should be replaced with rubber sealed (the new kits just released are);
4) mega diffs have a little bit of grease only, need disassembling and filling with silicon oil;
5) my mega had basically no oil in the shocks and needed refilling;
8) mega diff inputs must be replaced with metal versions as they snap quick on 3s: and

Just fyi mega diff input/teeth differ from 3s, giving slightly lower rations on the mega with the same pinion and spur... and you have to rememebr to buy the right parts!

All the points i kept in the quotation are relevant only to the v2, the v3 comes with the 3s parts for these out of the box.

 

[iep]

Jeez guys, this is incredibly detailed info. Thanks again.

On balance, still looks like buying a 3S wins out. I already have an ezrun max10 sct in my abysmal absima so I could swap that over if I suddenly develop skills and think I could handle a 4S car.

Cheers,

iep

 

[KvConivore]

I bought the Mega myself and am in the same boat as some guys above, I enjoy modding and have no problem with the cost of building it up.
I've also used the parts that @Grimbles listed with awesome results. I've ran 4s with mine without issue but I keep it on 2s to be safe. I love the car..

 

[Grimbles]

I've ran 4s with mine without issue but I keep it on 2s to be safe. I love the car

More restraint than me. I bash, break, fix, bash, break, fix etc

 

[Twoteccs]

Typhon mega is great if you want an upgrade project (for me this is the fun), but you will spend more upgrading than if you just buy a 3s. My typhon 550 is upgraded to brushless (hobbywing ezrun 10 sct so 4s capable). A few points:

1) all bearings should be replaced with rubber sealed (the new kits just released are);
2) high speed driveshaft carrier not on mega - worth it for brushless;
3) mega turnbuckles/rod ends are single moulded plastic pIeces and snap in seconds on 3s power;
4) mega diffs have a little bit of grease only, need disassembling and filling with silicon oil;
5) my mega had basically no oil in the shocks and needed refilling;
6) mega comes with a plastic motor moubt, need to replace with metal for 3s power;
7) mega 5kg steering servo is guff and needs replacing;
8) mega diff inputs must be replaced with metal versions as they snap quick on 3s: and
9) mega slipper doesn't hold up long to 3s so the slipper and spur and pinion should be replaced with 0.8 mod 3s kit.

Just fyi mega diff input/teeth differ from 3s, giving slightly lower rations on the mega with the same pinion and spur... and you have to rememebr to buy the right parts!

For me though the fun is in the project, disassembling, tinkering etc!

. So you put silicone oil in the mega diffs do you clean out the old grease and what weight oil do you use

 

[KvConivore]

More restraint than me. I bash, break, fix, bash, break, fix etc

I save my Stampede 4x4 for that....

 

[Grimbles]

. So you put silicone oil in the mega diffs do you clean out the old grease and what weight oil do you use

Yeah - open em up (be careful as the gaskets are delicate - order some spares), tip everything into a bowl with a healthy amount of degreaser, dry it all up, reassemble then add diff oil. You need to let it settle and air bubbles to come up. Wife's hairdryer v useful!

I used 30k front, 10k rear. Will probs up next time to 60:30 f:r.

Be careful when reassembling - first time i screwed it all back down i destroyed the plastic diff by overtightening.

And don't forget to regrease the gear on the exterior orlf the diff

 

[jondilly1974]

Yeah - open em up (be careful as the gaskets are delicate - order some spares), tip everything into a bowl with a healthy amount of degreaser, dry it all up, reassemble then add diff oil. You need to let it settle and air bubbles to come up. Wife's hairdryer v useful!

I used 30k front, 10k rear. Will probs up next time to 60:30 f:r.

Be careful when reassembling - first time i screwed it all back down i destroyed the plastic diff by overtightening.

And don't forget to regrease the gear on the exterior orlf the diff

I would only add here that you need to remove the gasket and orings before cleaning with any degreaser or other product as these could destroy the seals. Just simply set them aside before cleaning and you should be good. If using brake cleaner, make sure it’s non-chlorinated to prevent damage to the plastics.

As far as weight of the fluids, that’s a personal preference. If you like tight steering, keep it light. If you want more straight line stability and reduce ballooning of tires, go thicker.

 

[NewSensei]

I've never opened the diffs on my senton mega, never had to, they smoother than James Bond in a casino

Matter of fact, I've only had to replace an A arm after hitting a metal pole at full speed, added support to center drive shaft and replaced electrics to go 3s.

 

[Twoteccs]

I would only add here that you need to remove the gasket and orings before cleaning with any degreaser or other product as these could destroy the seals. Just simply set them aside before cleaning and you should be good. If using brake cleaner, make sure it’s non-chlorinated to prevent damage to the plastics.

As far as weight of the fluids, that’s a personal preference. If you like tight steering, keep it light. If you want more straight line stability and reduce ballooning of tires, go thicker.

I put 10k in the rear of the mega I’d said it makes a lil difference I feel like it rides smoother