Big Rock Updates Due for 4x4 3s line?

[phm14]

Is there a ballpark timeline, when Arrma tends to update a given model? I notice the current 3s Big Rock is getting to be 3+ years old. I'd like to see the common issues fixed- motor plate prone to bending, no center diff, goofy 23T servo set up, debris interference w steering, weak diffs. I bought the new Kraton 4s, but found the lack of space for any increase in motor size to be a deal breaker, not to mention, they left the crap servo saver in it. I'm pretty happy with my new K6s EXB, after ~25 packs. When do you think Arrma will next update the Big Rock 3s?

 

[Bustedaw11]

Waiting like-

 

[slick2500]

I don't forsee much of any of that being addressed aside from the servo saver, but even then they will probably only change it back to a 25t of the same crappy design.

The entire platform needs to be scrapped and redesigned from the ground up by someone who isn't a complete idiot.

Arrmas bread and butter is the 6s platform anyone who says otherwise is just blinded by their love of Arrma. Everyone always rags on Traxxas but at least their 1/10 4x4 platform isn't riddled with a multitude of design flaws and stupid design decisions. Yes the platform does have issues but at the end of the day you can at least fix them.

 

[Johnny b]

Waiting like-

View attachment 342780

Why is popcorn level not decreasing in dish?

 

[phm14]

At least it's light...

 

[GraniteFox]

It's 1/10 scale. There is not much better out there. MT410 possibly. Stampede / hoss platform......... I guess the TRX Maxx probably would be the most durable but now you are talking $570.00. I think for the price point the 3s line is a good value. Not perfect by any means but you get a decent durable rig at a reasonable price.

 

[slick2500]

It's 1/10 scale. There is not much better out there. MT410 possibly. Stampede / hoss platform......... I guess the TRX Maxx probably would be the most durable but now you are talking $570.00. I think for the price point the 3s line is a good value. Not perfect by any means but you get a decent durable rig at a reasonable price.

Upfront cost might be a bit less for the Arrma but long term from my experience not so much.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Upfront cost might be a bit less for the Arrma but long term from my experience not so much.

Your not wrong..

But nothing wrong with variety in the collection. Why I own both.

 

[GRC]

Is there a ballpark timeline, when Arrma tends to update a given model? I notice the current 3s Big Rock is getting to be 3+ years old. I'd like to see the common issues fixed- motor plate prone to bending, no center diff, goofy 23T servo set up, debris interference w steering, weak diffs. I bought the new Kraton 4s, but found the lack of space for any increase in motor size to be a deal breaker, not to mention, they left the crap servo saver in it. I'm pretty happy with my new K6s EXB, after ~25 packs. When do you think Arrma will next update the Big Rock 3s?

There are upgrades available for almost everything you’ve mentioned here.
M2C or CRCU motor plate
4s metal or CNC metal front and rear diffs
Center diff is now available

Arrma will never offer all these upgrades in a stock 3s vehicle because it will literally double the cost. Stock vehicle drives will fine for many. Those that need upgrades will have to spend more. The latest 4s versions have many of the updates we’ve been asking for, If you’re not happy with the latest Kraton 4s, I don’t think any updates to the Big Rock will satisfy you.

The 23t servo is something they’ve changed to 25t in recent releases, so I expect the rest of the 3s line will soon have the same. I’m going to try the LMT servo saver to address the weak stock one.

 

[phm14]

Well, with a 15% off Amain code (ncj24), I couldn't resist picking up the Big Rock 3s. It seems much of the content where guys are having issues are when they push the car to a 4s system. I'll take the same approach as I did with my new Kraton 6s EXB- run the cell count down below max, and crank up the punch: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/2023-arrma-kraton-6s-exb-make-ready-and-tuning.67499/
I'm betting the BR3s will hold together, and still be quick, running 2s, with punch increased from 3, to 4 or 5.

There are upgrades available for almost everything you’ve mentioned here.
M2C or CRCU motor plate
4s metal or CNC metal front and rear diffs
Center diff is now available

Arrma will never offer all these upgrades in a stock 3s vehicle because it will literally double the cost. Stock vehicle drives will fine for many. Those that need upgrades will have to spend more. The latest 4s versions have many of the updates we’ve been asking for, If you’re not happy with the latest Kraton 4s, I don’t think any updates to the Big Rock will satisfy you.

The 23t servo is something they’ve changed to 25t in recent releases, so I expect the rest of the 3s line will soon have the same. I’m going to try the LMT servo saver to address the weak stock one.

I think they can do better, at the price point. Look at the AE Rival MT10. I could have dealt with the poor steering on the K4s, but the lack of motor space for my HW XR8 combo motors was the straw...From what I'm seeing, Arrma electronics are improving. Had the K4s been running cooler, with the stock motor/esc/gearing, I might have kept it. For the Big Rock 3s, I've already bought a servo saver, in anticipation of needing a new servo, and plan to support the motor, to avoid the motor plate from bending and tearing up transmission parts. Of course, I'll be checking the half shafts for locktight at the axle stub, so the wheels don't fall off. Hopefully, the rest of the car will run a while, on 2s.

 

[RCbuzz]

We have several 3s rigs, they are a lot of fun and have been good after figuring out their weaknesses.

IMO, seal the power module (search the forum, lots of threads on this), for some time there the forum was filled with posts on bad 3S spur gears and motor bearings. It is because that power module acts like vacuum and sucks up all the debris into the one location you don't want it.

Set proper gear mesh (spur/pinion), and get metal diff yokes for the front and rear diff's. It will keep the plastic gears lasting as long as possible by avoiding flex like the plastic yokes do.

 

[phm14]

We have several 3s rigs, they are a lot of fun and have been good after figuring out their weaknesses.

IMO, seal the power module (search the forum, lots of threads on this), for some time there the forum was filled with posts on bad 3S spur gears and motor bearings. It is because that power module acts like vacuum and sucks up all the debris into the one location you don't want it.

Set proper gear mesh (spur/pinion), and get metal diff yokes for the front and rear diff's. It will keep the plastic gears lasting as long as possible by avoiding flex like the plastic yokes do.

Yes. Do you prefer velcro or tape, to seal the gearbox? Do you think the diffs will need the aluminum diff yokes, on 2s, set to punch 4-5?

 

[RCbuzz]

Yes. Do you prefer velcro or tape, to seal the gearbox? Do you think the diffs will need the aluminum diff yokes, on 2s, set to punch 4-5?

What we ran into was inconsistency. I had one plastic diff and yoke last many packs of some pretty good bashing, after it stripped the new diff only lasted a couple packs (same thing). We have been through a lot of plastic gears...

I am guessing the plastic yokes are not created equally. I do check gear mesh and shim them, but I suspect when the plastic stretches it has been weakened, or was weaker to begin with (than another batch?).

After I upgraded a couple to metal yokes they seem much more solid. I was surprised to see the 4S line come with metal gears but no metal yokes (cost?).

As for sealing the module I went this route: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-me-upgrade-my-senton-3s-for-sand.20322/post-278043
I have done a few of them now and it seems to work great, a friend used Velcro which seems to work not quite as well but way better than nothing.

Just me but I would get a Metal yoke at least for the rear diff and of course all the other checks (mesh, diff fluid levels, steering end points, alignment, etc.).

Shout out to @morrjr71 for the tip on the metal yokes

 

[phm14]

What we ran into was inconsistency. I had one plastic diff and yoke last many packs of some pretty good bashing, after it stripped the new diff only lasted a couple packs (same thing). We have been through a lot of plastic gears...

I am guessing the plastic yokes are not created equally. I do check gear mesh and shim them, but I suspect when the plastic stretches it has been weakened, or was weaker to begin with (than another batch?).

After I upgraded a couple to metal yokes they seem much more solid. I was surprised to see the 4S line come with metal gears but no metal yokes (cost?).

As for sealing the module I went this route: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-me-upgrade-my-senton-3s-for-sand.20322/post-278043
I have done a few of them now and it seems to work great, a friend used Velcro which seems to work not quite as well but way better than nothing.

Just me but I would get a Metal yoke at least for the rear diff and of course all the other checks (mesh, diff fluid levels, steering end points, alignment, etc.).

Are you running 3s?

 

[RCbuzz]

Are you running 3s?

Both

 

[GRC]

I think they can do better, at the price point. Look at the AE Rival MT10 ...

Hmmm, the Rival MT10 is certainly the Granite's closest competitor, but it's really hard to say which is better. Yes. the Rival MT10 has a center diff. But the Granite has more power, better electronics at the same price point. I'd definitely still choose the Granite. Much better upgrade path.

 

[phm14]

Hmmm, the Rival MT10 is certainly the Granite's closest competitor, but it's really hard to say which is better. Yes. the Rival MT10 has a center diff. But the Granite has more power, better electronics at the same price point. I'd definitely still choose the Granite. Much better upgrade path.

I've been beating on a MT10 for seven months, and the only upgrades it's needed are wheel nuts and some duct tape over the holes ground through the body on concrete. Sure, the ESC isn't the smoothest, but I'm not racing the thing. Again, I'm running 2s. Seems like running these cars at max cell count is a recipe for selling replacement parts.

 

[RCbuzz]

I've been beating on a MT10 for seven months, and the only upgrades it's needed are wheel nuts and some duct tape over the holes ground through the body on concrete. Sure, the ESC isn't the smoothest, but I'm not racing the thing. Again, I'm running 2s. Seems like running these cars at max cell count is a recipe for selling replacement parts.

2S does seem to be the sweet spot, I have heard the Arrma 3S line shines on 2S (reliability wise). Perhaps 3S is pushing its limits, but its fun

 

[Bustedaw11]

Nonsense... I blast the hell out of my big rock on 3s. I've had absolutely zero issues with slipper/ spur/ diffs and I've got the punch all the way up and do Tons of running on clean asphalt. Dead stop wot hits.

Pretty sure they're issue is landing on throttle. The sudden shock. Something I don't do. No signs of wear on anything after 6mo of hard use on 3s.

 

[GRC]

2s? I recently spent some time tuning my Granite. It's running so good, I can pin the throttle on 3s even over bumpy terrain. I'm spending so much time with the throttle pinned, I'm realizing I need more power, so I'm upgrading to 4s. The MT10 is a better behaved vehicle when it comes to steering/handling, but I have not anyone pushing an MT10 to the jumping/bashing limits that many send the Granite to. So yeah, depending on what your looking for, the 3s line really can't be beat in terms of performance/value. And with a few upgrades, they are as durable as anything out there, if not the most durable.