Kraton Whats a good budget heatsink and fan for a V5 kraton?

[amateurhour]

In the yeah racing instructions it shows the spacers for holding the fans off of the heatsink.

They also only included four mounting screws, so eight spacers wouldn’t be much help. In racing most fans are held on with just two mounting holes. Racers don’t tend to send it or crash as much as bashers. For bashing you should use all four mounting holes.

 

[Jzepp]

In the yeah racing instructions it shows the spacers for holding the fans off of the heatsink.

View attachment 125215
They also only included four mounting screws, so eight spacers wouldn’t be much help. In racing most fans are held on with just two mounting holes. Racers don’t tend to send it or crash as much as bashers. For bashing you should use all four mounting holes.

I don't agree with that. The guy in that Powerhobbies video had a good explanation about airflow with fans mounted right on the heatsink being sucked down and out through the fins...that is the most efficient way of cooling the motor.

 

[revosmash]

I don't agree with that. The guy in that Powerhobbies video had a good explanation about airflow with fans mounted right on the heatsink being sucked down and out through the fins...that is the most efficient way of cooling the motor.

Spacers are for fans, more air flow is achieved when fans are raised. Read yeah racing instructions.

 

[Jzepp]

Spacers are for fans, more air flow is achieved when fans are raised. Read yeah racing instructions.

How do you figure more arflow is achieved? 4 spacers for 8 holes. Dumbest thing i have heard. Yeah Racing don't know what they talking about. Air is escaping not being sucked down and out.. not gonna sit here and argue. Believe what you want. I agree with the guy saying fans should be mounted directly on top of heatsink and spacers are for extending the heatsink for fitment. There are 4 holes in the heatsink...4 holes to fit the 4 spacers included with the heatsink along with the 4 short or long screws

 

[revosmash]

How do you figure more arflow is achieved? 4 spacers for 8 holes. Dumbest thing i have heard. Yeah Racing don't know what they talking about. Air is escaping not being sucked down and out.. not gonna sit here and argue. Believe what you want. I agree with the guy saying fans should be mounted directly on top of heatsink and spacers are for extending the heatsink for fitment. There are 4 holes in the heatsink...4 holes to fit the 4 spacers included with the heatsink along with the 4 short or long screws

Physics. Heat sink will not fit any motor larger then 42mm.

 

[East tactics]

Just an FYI for those who are reading this thread. If your putting fans into a racer... you can do whatever. But if your putting fans into a basher, do not...I repeat do not use the spacers. Air flow aside. the simple fact that your lifting the fan up off the heat sink means your completely taking away the most important support system it needs to not break. With the fan hovering up of the surface, any hard impact downward... which is pretty much any chassis slap whatsoever is going to snap those suckers downward and break them. So... definitely mount them as flat to the surface as possible. i would even suggest putting a soft thing layer of shock absorbing material (dime size) down first (such as Sorbothane) to further insure there is absolutely not gap between the fan base and the heatsink, plus adds some shock protection. Bash on Brothers!!!
Just an FYI for those who are reading this thread. If your putting fans into a racer... you can do whatever. But if your putting fans into a basher, do not...I repeat do not use the spacers under the fans, they are indeed for those who have larger motors and need them to increase the girth of the heatsink.

Air flow aside. the simple fact that your lifting the fan up off the heat sink means your completely taking away the most important support system it needs to not break. With the fan hovering up of the surface, any hard impact downward... which is pretty much any chassis slap whatsoever is going to snap those suckers downward and break them. So... definitely mount them as flat to the surface as possible. i would even suggest putting a soft thin layer of shock absorbing material (dime size) down first (such as Sorbothane) to further insure there is absolutely not gap between the fan base and the heatsink, plus it adds some shock protection. Bash on Brothers!!!

 

[Jzepp]

Bought the Powerhobby Heatsink & dual fans. I know some people said the fan holes don't line up and are off on top of the Heatsink but i had no issues. All holes line up allowing all 8 screws to go in with no problems. Just waiting on a thermal pad to come in so the Heatsink will have a tight fit around the motor

 

[SrC]

And the 4 spacers that come with the kit are not for standing the fans off of the heatsink or they would have supplied 8 spacers. Didnt someone mention that is what those are for? That is wrong. This guy on the vid seems to know his stuff.

He said the 4 spacers are for separating the top heatsink plate from the bottom heatsink plate in case you have a larger motor.

WRONG!

I don't agree with that. The guy in that Powerhobbies video had a good explanation about airflow with fans mounted right on the heatsink being sucked down and out through the fins...that is the most efficient way of cooling the motor.

NO it is not the most efficient way . These fans have too little static pressure being 30mmx10mm fans. I have 4 of these YR HS/fans. They run best if standoffs are used. Get a temp gun and test it out. I have. That YR fan/HS setup is just a clone of a clone of a clone knockoff. It is found under many labels. YR , PH and other labels don't even mfr. it. What do they know? The video is just poor marketing at best. IMHO. Just his own interpretation. One that is WRONG.
And the fans don't suck air into the HS fins. They push/blow air into the HS fins. These are pusher setup fans by design.

 

[Jzepp]

WRONG!

NO it is not the most efficient way . These fans have too little static pressure being 30mmx10mm fans. I have 4 of these YR HS/fans. They run best if standoffs are used. Get a temp gun and test it out. I have. That YR fan/HS setup is just a clone of a clone of a clone knockoff. It is found under many labels. YR , PH and other labels don't even mfr. it. What do they know? The video is just poor marketing at best. IMHO. Just his own interpretation. One that is WRONG.
And the fans don't suck air into the HS fins. They push/blow air into the HS fins. These are pusher setup fans by design.

You do it your way and i will do it the way i prefer and the way i see most people are doing it on video instruction and its not as fan spacers.

Also, i would like to see how long that fan is going to hold up standing off on top of the Heatsink when you are bashing your vehicle.

 

[revosmash]

NHX Heatsink w Twin High Speed Tornado 2800 RPM Cooling Fans for 1/8 Motors Red $19.95 Cheaper if you buy more. The power hobby fan heat sink is a knock off. Just like all of power hobby items

 

[kavax]

Heatsink compound on these janky motor heatsinks, cmon man.

 

[ih8nixon]

Heatsink compound on these janky motor heatsinks, cmon man.

If you got it, why not? With the way these mount, the precision of their manufacturing, and the surface conditions of both the motor and the heat sink there are bound too be tons voids that the compound can fill to improve the heat transfer.

As to the spacer question fans are great at moving tons of air, but can't deal with much resistance. By having the fan that close to the heat sink you are greatly increasing the amount of resistance the fan has to push against. By bringing the fans back a little you reduce the resistance the fan sees and it can move a lot more air.

 

[kavax]

If you got it, why not? With the way these mount, the precision of their manufacturing, and the surface conditions of both the motor and the heat sink there are bound too be tons voids that the compound can fill to improve the heat transfer.

Diminishing returns, you're right that the compound will fill those voids I don't doubt that. What I doubt is that it's going to matter more than what the $15 heat gun I'm using to temp it can detect. Hell I even have some of the silver paste on hand and everything but don't think it's worth the effort to dig it out.

If it were a heavy transistor or IC like a cpu/gpu I'd think different. I installed a Corsair water cooler on my PC about 2 years ago. Right about the 2 year mark the pump failed. From a cold boot the CPU was already in an overheated state before Windows could even finish loading. Not even 90 seconds and the PC would overheat and reboot. The decent size hunk of copper that bolts directly onto the CPU wasn't enough to let it run a minute before becoming unstable. That's an environment where I think it'd help. Where a dot less than a size of a pea on that chip is generating that much heat, that quickly. So out goes the $120 overengineered contraption, in goes the $23 Cooler Master HSF. Hell the Cooler Master is so large that it allows the PC to still run if the attached fan goes out.

 

[Deiglie]

You do it your way and i will do it the way i prefer and the way i see most people are doing it on video instruction and its not as fan spacers.

Also, i would like to see how long that fan is going to hold up standing off on top of the Heatsink when you are bashing your vehicle.

Works fine here

 

[ih8nixon]

I get what you're pointing towards, but cpu thing misses the mark a bit as you comparing a failed convective cooling system that has to now rely on conduction vs either a finned chunk of copper made to conduct heat or a chunk of copper with functioning heat pipes. If you removed the thermal compound between the processor and the heat sink it will throttle and probably crash due to the heat. People used to kill processors back in the day before thermal protection by forgetting the thermal paste.

On a CPU you have a nice flat heat spreader connecting to a nice flat heat sink under somewhat uniform pressure and it still needs a filler material to displace the air pockets and function properly. The surface of the heatsinks and the cans of the motors themselves won't have nice finishes. They'll have scratches, manufacturing scuffs, and other defects creating tons of tiny pockets of air that will function as an insulator if not displaced by thermal paste. I agree with your opinion on the cpu coolers as personally I like the big Noctua coolers, and see the AIO coolers as a mess waiting to happen.

As to the efficacy of these heat sinks and the effects of thermal paste you would probably need to set up a test bench and put a thermistor on the inside of the can to get a good measure of the effects, but I am confident that using thermal paste would result in a noticable temp reduction. It's not critical to the operation of the motor like it is a cpu, but if you have it why not use it?

Personally I'm of the opinion that the best cooling solution is probably a ribbed can with a high speed 60mm fan 1-2cm off the motor dumping 30cfm on it and air redirectors on the far side to try to negate the effects of the flow separation.

 

[SrC]

NHX Heatsink w Twin High Speed Tornado 2800 RPM Cooling Fans for 1/8 Motors Red $19.95 Cheaper if you buy more. The power hobby fan heat sink is a knock off. Just like all of power hobby items

So is the YR. Many don't get this. Same right down to the "turbo" fans. There's just one OE that stamps these out. And even sold as generic no names.

 

[Deiglie]

From Powerhobby.com:

*The fans can be installed directly to the heatsink or you can use the included 10mm spacers between the fans and the heatsink for enhanced airflow.*

I'm NO expert, but its funny that Powerhobby are (also) gettings this wrong..


https://www.powerhobby.com/powerhobby-heatsink-ph1289blue.html

 

[SrC]

I get what you're pointing towards, but cpu thing misses the mark a bit as you comparing a failed convective cooling system that has to now rely on conduction vs either a finned chunk of copper made to conduct heat or a chunk of copper with functioning heat pipes. If you removed the thermal compound between the processor and the heat sink it will throttle and probably crash due to the heat. People used to kill processors back in the day before thermal protection by forgetting the thermal paste.

On a CPU you have a nice flat heat spreader connecting to a nice flat heat sink under somewhat uniform pressure and it still needs a filler material to displace the air pockets and function properly. The surface of the heatsinks and the cans of the motors themselves won't have nice finishes. They'll have scratches, manufacturing scuffs, and other defects creating tons of tiny pockets of air that will function as an insulator if not displaced by thermal paste. I agree with your opinion on the cpu coolers as personally I like the big Noctua coolers, and see the AIO coolers as a mess waiting to happen.

As to the efficacy of these heat sinks and the effects of thermal paste you would probably need to set up a test bench and put a thermistor on the inside of the can to get a good measure of the effects, but I am confident that using thermal paste would result in a noticable temp reduction. It's not critical to the operation of the motor like it is a cpu, but if you have it why not use it?

Personally I'm of the opinion that the best cooling solution is probably a ribbed can with a high speed 60mm fan 1-2cm off the motor dumping 30cfm on it and air redirectors on the far side to try to negate the effects of the flow separation.

I've built PC boxes many times I agree with your Processor logic. I would polish/plane the Processor heat sinks before installing them and use Arctic silver or similar. HS compound does help absolutely with RC I even use it at the motor mount sliders. VERY little compound is needed, or it goes against you and impedes thermal transfer. It doesn't even have to be expensive silver paste types. Overkill. I am of the belief that motor HS usually impede Thermal transfer a lot of the time. Most HS have little surface area contact to many motors. I prefer a high static pressure fan direct to the motor. These motor cans are HS by themselves. Many use HS as a crutch to mount the fans. Just use stand alone Fan mounts. Best for hot setups. Many can just get by with the YR/PH setup. But they need to be tweaked IMHO. I am firm about the standard fans needing the standoffs. Tried both ways for several years. The static pressure is not strong enough and RPMS drop if the fans are slammed against the HS with no standoffs. I even tried different length standoffs with good results. But most of the YR/PH fans have been replaced for failure. I upgraded them.

From Powerhobby.com:

*The fans can be installed directly to the heatsink or you can use the included 10mm spacers between the fans and the heatsink for enhanced airflow.*

I'm NO expert, but its funny that Powerhobby are (also) gettings this wrong..


https://www.powerhobby.com/powerhobby-heatsink-ph1289blue.html

The option of no standoffs is there. Never countered that. But it's just wrong, if you want BEST cooling in a hot setup, Use standoffs. Trim length as needed to tune it, if it matters enough.
This is not a new concept we are discussing here. Nor is my opinion.
Understand more about the static pressure of a fans.
Chinesium RC parts are just Mfr'ed sometimes with little understanding and poor instructions as it gets watered down and interpreted out of Chinese, by the time its marketed. These hs/fans are literally a $2.00 cost item if that, Gumball accessories that make big profit in the RC industry. And far from any real quality and value. I wouldn't focus on them too much.

 

[L3phturn]

I can’t measure until summer reasonably but this seems to move a lot of air. I agree with a finned can and high CFM fan. If I want more I can run it from a small 3S, but on the Max6 I have the BEC at 7.4v so it works well.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Works fine here

View attachment 126510

Is this on a V5 Kraton 6s? I’m debating between a all-in-one kit OR doing something similar to East Tactics seen here: