Kraton Why M2C braces?

[Fishtank]

I bought the beefcake kit for my Outcast to Mojave conversion. Don't forget these or you will bust the top ears off of your rear differential case eventually.
https://m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php...CK-TOWER-BRACE/p/478044788/category=136157755

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I saw this post snd had to chime in: this brace works VERY WELL! I have a V1 Frankenstein rig from 2010 chassis,towers,steering. I’ve destroyed 4 sets of V1-V5 towers and 3 chassis. The towers in the pictures are V1 towers and they lasted longer then any set I’ve had on the truck. I put this brace on ever truck I have (4). You can see in the first picture it’s bent but straight where the brace is. Just experimenting.

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[slick2500]

I saw this post snd had to chime in: this brace works VERY WELL! I have a V1 Frankenstein rig from 2010 chassis,towers,steering. I’ve destroyed 4 sets of V1-V5 towers and 3 chassis. The towers in the pictures are V1 towers and they lasted longer then any set I’ve had on the truck. I put this brace on ever truck I have (4). You can see in the first picture it’s bent but straight where the brace is. Just experimenting. View attachment 255944View attachment 255945View attachment 255946View attachment 255947View attachment 255949View attachment 255950View attachment 255951

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I wish my V1 rear shock tower looked like that.

This is when I finally decided to take it off.

 

[Fishtank]

I wish my V1 rear shock tower looked like that.

This is when I finally decided to take it o

They due bend easy. This sets lasted quite awhile with the M2C brace has a slight bend but still holding up. My Sons been trying to bend it for sure.

 

[slick2500]

They due bend easy. This sets lasted quite awhile with the M2C brace has a slight bend but still holding up. My Sons been trying to bend it for sure.

I'm about do for new shock towers again my Voltage Hobbies shock towers are getting rather tweaked.

 

[Fishtank]

I'm about do for new shock towers again my Voltage Hobbies shock towers are getting rather tweaked.

Once these towers are destroyed I’m going to strip it and build a new EXB. Reuse all the parts.

 

[slick2500]

Once these towers are destroyed I’m going to strip it and build a new EXB. Reuse all the parts.

I've just been upgrading parts as I have been going along. I think I'm just going to do the entire V5 suspension swap when I do the shock towers, I already have everything except the pillow balls and 1 upper a arm.

 

[Fishtank]

I've just been upgrading parts as I have been going along. I think I'm just going to do the entire V5 suspension swap when I do the shock towers, I already have everything except the pillow balls and 1 upper a arm.

I've just been upgrading parts as I have been going along. I think I'm just going to do the entire V5 suspension swap when I do the shock towers, I already have everything except the pillow balls and 1 upper a arm.

I have a kraton obsession. I have 2 Xl kratons and 2 EXB’s plus my V1 Frankenstein. Seems like ones always being rebuilt.

 

[JSnook]

I’m going to order my first Arrma after years of being out of the hobby. Getting the Kraton 6s BLX. Trying to figure out what all I should upgrade before I start bashing. Don’t plan on going crazy and I can get the EXB braces discounted so just doing that. Do I need to order anything else for it to be properly installed? Their website says you need that top plate but I’ve heard Arrmas website/part numbers aren’t always correct

 

[Adiabatic]

As of the V5 model, the top plate is compatible with the EXB braces, but you do have to flip it around so the larger 4mm hole will align with the threads on the brace.

You'll also need screws. If I'm remembering correctly, M4x14mm button or cap head for the top of the front brace, 2x M4x18mm flat head for the bottom of both braces, and the long stock screw from the top of the rear brace can be reused.

 

[JSnook]

As of the V5 model, the top plate is compatible with the EXB braces, but you do have to flip it around so the larger 4mm hole will align with the threads on the brace.

You'll also need screws. If I'm remembering correctly, M4x14mm button or cap head for the top of the front brace, 2x M4x18mm flat head for the bottom of both braces, and the long stock screw from the top of the read brace can be reused.

Thanks for the info! Wish Arrma would add this kinda info to their EXB parts as I would imagine most buyers are upgrading their BLX. I should invest in a screw kit to have on hand. Research, research, research

 

[Jeremy15086]

EXB is totally worth the difference in price but looks like you've made your decision.. Also, either one will need the servo saver spring tightened with c-clips or, like I did, replace the whole unit and upgrade the bushings with bearings... I used the new Treal set up and I love it.

 

[JSnook]

EXB is totally worth the difference in price but looks like you've made your decision.. Also, either one will need the servo saver spring tightened with c-clips or, like I did, replace the whole unit and upgrade the bushings with bearings... I used the new Treal set up and I love it.

I definitely see the value in the EXB and it’s just cool. Here’s what I have left from my team associated 1/8 buggy that’s broken and discontinued, including parts. I thought about just throwing in these electronics in an EXB but the esc is a 3-4S system. Open to thoughts on how all this would work in an EXB.

 

[slick2500]

I definitely see the value in the EXB and it’s just cool. Here’s what I have left from my team associated 1/8 buggy that’s broken and discontinued, including parts. I thought about just throwing in these electronics in an EXB but the esc is a 3-4S system. Open to thoughts on how all this would work in an EXB.

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Not very well in the EXB unfortunately, that setup would work well in the Team Losi Typhon though.

 

[JSnook]

Not very well in the EXB unfortunately, that setup would work well in the Team Losi Typhon though.

Yea I didn’t think so. I took a good look at the Typhon but I’ve decided on the Kraton because I’ve never had anything like it and I think it will be more fun on my rough acre yard for bashing. The EXB plus electronics is just too much startup cost. My wife would stab me so I’ll just slowly build the BLX

 

[hobo]

Yea I didn’t think so. I took a good look at the Typhon but I’ve decided on the Kraton because I’ve never had anything like it and I think it will be more fun on my rough acre yard for bashing. The EXB plus electronics is just too much startup cost. My wife would stab me so I’ll just slowly build the BLX

kraton is a good choice you will love it

 

[JSnook]

Not very well in the EXB unfortunately, that setup would work well in the Team Losi Typhon though.

What issues do you think I would have temporarily running my power system in the EXB other than it not being as fast as a 6S setup? I would get a good fan for the motor. I’m not concerned with top speed right now.

 

[Jeremy15086]

What issues do you think I would have temporarily running my power system in the EXB other than it not being as fast as a 6S setup? I would get a good fan for the motor. I’m not concerned with top speed right now.

Too heavy. Lots of strain on the esc = lots of heat for not much power or speed. Could kill it...

 

[SrC]

I’m going to order my first Arrma after years of being out of the hobby. Getting the Kraton 6s BLX. Trying to figure out what all I should upgrade before I start bashing. Don’t plan on going crazy and I can get the EXB braces discounted so just doing that. Do I need to order anything else for it to be properly installed? Their website says you need that top plate but I’ve heard Arrmas website/part numbers aren’t always correct

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The EXB Steering Top Plate is not really a needed part at all. Stocker ST. Top Plate serves fine 99.998% of the time. EXB one offers zero return on investment here IMHO. Just it's Black and says EXB on it. Big deal. I run both types in my 6s rigs. From experience. Don't need the EXB Top Plate at all.
Spend your coin on other "needed" alloy parts. Like F and R chassis braces, if you haven't already. Perhaps the EXB Shock towers and Chassis if you wallet allows. But if It were me I would lean to an M2C chassis hands down. The last chassis you will need. The EXB chassis' still do bend. Not all EXB stuff is better for the price. The EXB towers are way over priced IMHO. (think M2c better for the price.) Even the EXB Shock standoffs are garbage and snap easily. More of a Downgrade if anything. Better off with the Stocker Standoffs. Been there also. The EXB Tie rods are not all that over stock either. EXB's are just nice and shiny, not black. You could always shine up the stocker ones if it matters.
Much of the EXB stuff is just Arrma $Bling$. Much is made from China Monkey metal IMHO. I don't feel it is true 7075 alloy.
EXB F and R braces are ok. I run them as well as M2c's versions.
Good luck.

EDIT.
FWIW, I don't know what kind of discount you are getting with these EXB parts, I would check JennysRC.com first. They have the cheapest parts. EXB stuff included.
Learn to drive your new Arrma first, before dropping much uneeded coin into it.
Just run the F and R Alloy chassis braces right away if anything. Plastic ones are weak for sure with bashing. Allowing the chassis to bend.
What I usually do with any new Arrma 6s rig. Def go over the F, Center and R diffs. Oil is usually low. Make sure the F and R diffs are shimmed properly etc.
These are the priorities. The factory has poor QC in many cases. Arrma rigs are great only if you go over them completely, once out the box before you run them. Learn your rig first before slamming it with uneeded parts. Some parts are best left as plastic, so they can flex with impacts and are cheap to replace if they do break. Some plastic parts are just sacrificial parts to protect other $critical$ parts. Like the Pastic Wing Mounts. I could see replacing them with 3dRC Wing mounts when they do break. Most do this. They flex much better before snapping when you land on you rear wing. There for protection of the rear shock tower. You will break much in the beginning as you learn to drive. This is normal.

 

[sumguy75]

For a Fireteam, would it be strong enough to put the M2C rear chassis brace and the EXB front brace? I figure the longer one is more susceptible to bending and needs to be stronger so M2C there and the EXB is strong enough for the short brace? Figure its an easy way to save $15, superdegreaser will take the red off the EXB brace so they color match.

 

[SrC]

Both F and R braces are similar in length anyway. Because the center diff sits in the middle of this XLWB chassis, Unlike the Lim/ Infr chassis where the Rear brace is super long.
But I follow your point however. Yes you could easily de-anodize the Fr. EXB one. Will look uniform.
I think it makes sense to order both from M2C however. When you factor in Shipping and all from 2 different vendors. Comes close to the same $$ ???? IDK. Could also just run the EXB's.
I use the exact same F and R M2C ones for my Mojave. I feel this XLWB of the FT and Mojave are well deserving of the M2C's. Also the FT/Mojave chassis has Keyed slots on the chassis that fits well with the M2C versions. I do run the EXB braces on my TLRT however. But its a SWB chassis. I also Have HR braces. Not my Favorite however. I sheared a screw on one of them.