Big Rock Wobbly wheels problem

[Jimmer101]

Hi guys

Does anyone no what shim I can use for my arrma big.rock 3s front wobbly wheels ?

I am getting the same problem exactly as below link but big rock

 

[SrC]

Much of that slop is just inherent by design and price point of these models. You can only get rid of so much. Many spend hundreds on upgrades trying. For bashing use it is ok as is, for many Others not. I get that.
Check your BB's first. Worn or sloppy BB's is one area you can address with new BB's. The Balls and ends is another area to look at. You can probably get rid of 50% of the slop with little cost. Some are using TRX steel balls with success. Best to only upgrade with steel balls, if you do, not HR alloy or more plastic ones. I don't have any 4x4's, just 6s line. So I can relate to the video above. I find that my On road Speed runner 6s rigs is where I focus on slop more so now. With my off road stuff I do minimal. As these are not Track based rigs that need tighter precision to drive well enough. Bashing around and all. As long as they Steer straight, you are good.
Try putting small layered strips of Teflon White Plumbers tape into your ball ends and pop the balls back in. Snipping off any excess T.tape You be surprised how much slop you can address just doing that. What I do. It's an old Racer hack that works. Guys would do this as the ball ends wear out. Everyone should have T.Tape floating around the house. If not, it is very cheap to buy. Give that try.

>>>But to get rid of 100% of slop, you will be chasing a ghost and get frustrated. Sometimes good enough to drive is just that, Good enough. As basher RC models go.
Want Precison? Buy a Tekno or similar track kit model, but their price point only gets higher, because of that better fit and precision. None of my 6s Arrma's can hold a candle to my Tekno V1 MT410, but easily at double the price point.

Edited.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

You mention "wobbly wheels" and then ask which shim to use. But are you confident you've identified the source of said wobble? Are all the steering block and suspension fasteners tight? Are all wheel bearings in place and intact? Is anything in the steering assembly cracked or broken? Is the wheel cracked or damaged? (these are all other causes from "wobbly wheel" threads in the past). It would benefit you to find out specifically where the movement is coming from so you can address the issue directly.

For example, in my experience with the 3s line, what you're seeing as wobble in the "wheels" was actually slop in suspension linkages. The pivot balls and rod ends on the 3s trucks are notorious for getting sloppy very quick. Lots of answers out there and many threads documented for you to find which of those solutions you'd prefer. Mine was replacing the links with better ones.

 

[Neelis]

Check my build thread to see how to shim the wheel bearings and upgrade the rod ends. I got rid of 90-95% of the play on my Typhon 3s.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Having a little give in parts actually let's them have a little smoother driving imho. In rough terrain anyway.
Let's everything move a little more independently which is great for the rough stuff.. I wouldn't go crazy chasing a completely slop free rig.
Unless you are on a track or running speed runs onroad anyway. Much better platforms out there made much more precise for those tasks out of the box though, as @SrC mentioned.

 

[6mm Lapua]

Just today I found that the little axle that the tires mounts to is bent or not seated squarely in the cvd, I had a set of spares and started trying them out, found 1 that is perfect, zero wobble in one front, very little in the other.