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Stock Xmaxx Vs upgraded Xmaxx jumps:
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Not good at all to mix and match batteries. They are in series so it’s a bad idea!One of my powerhobby batteries went up in smoke today. All the damage I see right now is my burnt finger, the battery and the straps. Even the center strap going across that battery didn't get damaged, or the connector going to the Max 5. I already replaced the burned up straps. Now I'm going to try to run a 7000MAH with a 8000mah battery with the charger set to cut off at 7000MAH on the battery with higher capacity. Everything else is the same. Same C rating, same battery.
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Cool. I will not do it. Thanks.Not good at all to mix and match batteries. They are in series so it’s a bad idea!
Yes those are the cats meow. Have them on all my x-maxx’s.Cool. I will not do it. Thanks.
On another note, I got these. Very nice 25mm hex nuts. You do need a 25mm socket. Not that expensive either. Perfect for the tires with bigger holes in the middle. Way better than stock too. That tiny stock wheel nut are a joke.
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Absolutely. You just need a stepper drill bit. Just do it carefully and you should be golden. This is the one I used. Yo will need the HR lug nuts mentioned above if you do it. Next time just get the lockups meant for the K8S. They already come with the big hole in the middle. That's what I doHave a question if you don’t mind. I recently got some lockup X tires for the Xmaxx but seems they only fit 17mm. I assume I can just drill out the center to make it fit 24mm if need be?
Perfect. Just bought one of those the other day just wanted to make sure before I start drilling holes in my wheels. Appreciate you as always.Absolutely. You just need a stepper drill bit. Just do it carefully and you should be golden. This is the one I used :
amoolo Titanium Step Drill Bit (10 Step), 1/4" to 1-3/8", High Speed Steel (HSS) 1/4" Hex Shank Unibit for Soft Metal Sheet, Wood, Plastic, Multiple Hole Drilling Cone Drill Bit https://a.co/d/gTkZtaL
Do it from the front. Hehe. I'm sure you knew that. No worries. I love to helpPerfect. Just bought one of those the other day just wanted to make sure before I start drilling holes in my wheels. Appreciate you as always.
do you still get some wobble with that BowHouse spur shaft? Temped to get the Vitavon one as well but don't want to spend another $90.It was fast enough for sure, but that shaft seems to have a wobble, so that destroyed my 47T spur gear. So I went ahead and put a 50T spur gear. So now it's 35/50 gearing. It's still very fast. But that shaft still had some weird play to it. It's working fine so far, but like I said, it has some kind of play and wobble to it that the stock spur shaft didn't. I'll keep driving it and check back. In that video, I ran 35/50 gearing.
On question one, it does get too hot if I run non stop. So I try to avoid it. I also run my throttle at only 75% so that it's slower. TBH, you will need some fans to be on the the safe side with 35/50 gearing. On question #2, to mitigate the slight wobble on the BowHouse shaft, I put my gear as far in as I could towards the inner part of the shaft end and I don't see a wobble. Before that, I had tried the gear at the end of the shaft, and that didn't work well. The gear ended up getting chewed up because of the mentioned wobble. It's good now though.Question for you on the motor. I notice you don't run any fans for that HobbyWing. Are you temps pretty good without them? Going to try 35/50 mod1 gearing as well on a HW 5687.
do you still get some wobble with that BowHouse spur shaft? Temped to get the Vitavon one as well but don't want to spend another $90.
https://www.vitavon-racing.com/maxx...ur-gear-combo-for-traxxas-x-maxx-15-products/
Check out Exocage's video. He will need fans with 26/46 gearing too. His motor hit 170F.Question for you on the motor. I notice you don't run any fans for that HobbyWing. Are you temps pretty good without them? Going to try 35/50 mod1 gearing as well on a HW 5687.
do you still get some wobble with that BowHouse spur shaft? Temped to get the Vitavon one as well but don't want to spend another $90.
https://www.vitavon-racing.com/maxx...ur-gear-combo-for-traxxas-x-maxx-15-products/
Thank you for that info. Just got my saga gears 35/50 in and have a 20 and 46 coming in as well so will test out various gears to see what works best.On question one, it does get too hot if I run non stop. So I try to avoid it. I also run my throttle at only 75% so that it's slower. TBH, you will need some fans to be on the the safe side with 35/50 gearing. On question #2, to mitigate the slight wobble on the BowHouse shaft, I put my gear as far in as I could towards the inner part of the shaft end and I don't see a wobble. Before that, I had tried the gear at the end of the shaft, and that didn't work well. The gear ended up getting chewed up because of the mentioned wobble. It's good now though.
I think that's what I'm running too. 30k in the front and 50k in the rear. Looks fine to me, but it's only a basher.What diff fluid are you running front and rear? I was running 50/30 but wondering if that was to high/low with a Max5 with 1100kv.
Roger that. Noticed an oil leak in my front diff last night so was changing out the fluids. Find it interesting that Traxxas wants a lower diff fluid in the front then the rear. Stock is 10k front and 30k rear.I think that's what I'm running too. 30k in the front and 50k in the rear. Looks fine to me, but it's only a basher.
Well you do want lower diff fluid in the front and thicker in the rear to try to avoid front wheel ballooning as much as possible. But 10k is a bit too thin. That's why I went with 30k. And 50k in the rear.Roger that. Noticed an oil leak in my front diff last night so was changing out the fluids. Find it interesting that Traxxas wants a lower diff fluid in the front then the rear. Stock is 10k front and 30k rear.
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