Vorteks 6s Shocks on Vorteks

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dubesinhower

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Arrma RC's
  1. Vorteks
I've had my Vorteks for a couple of weeks, and the only thing I've broken so far are shock shafts (one with the stock plastic shocks and one with the aluminum body shocks), so I'm trying out some 6s shocks from the shock guide. Just wanted to document it in case anyone was curious!

Before the new shocks went on:

IMG_2410.JPEG


I went with Mojave for rear shocks and Limitless for front shocks. I'm still waiting on parts for the fronts, so I added the rears first!

Here are all the parts I used for the rears:

IMG_2414.JPEG


I used:
The only "maintenance" I did to the new shocks was changed the oil, I used 42.5 Team Associated shock oil. I also swapped in the new springs.

Then I added the bushings to the shock tops:

IMG_2415.JPEG


Then I installed one side:

IMG_2417.JPEG


Then the other:

IMG_2418.JPEG


Looks pretty cool so far, the only thing I noticed is that the new shocks make the car sit a little higher.

After I get the parts for the fronts, I'll post some more pictures!
 
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Best move to the 6s shocks. No doubt. I have not bent one shock shaft on any of my much heavier 6s rigs.(y)

:cool:
 
hi dubes how you getting on? did you get the fronts, would you mind sharing which you went for as i am too looking for a shock upgrade.

cheers
 
hi dubes how you getting on? did you get the fronts, would you mind sharing which you went for as i am too looking for a shock upgrade.

cheers
I'm running into some issues with the fronts... I ordered the Limitless shocks and Axial springs listed in the guide, and the springs are way too short for my comfort. I ended up ordering these Team Associated RC8B V2 Yellow springs that someone recommended in another thread, but the springs are pretty stiff (or maybe a little too long?), which makes the shocks sit higher in the front than the rears. Also, these springs rub against the shock body threads, and I'm worried they might ruin the threads over time.

It's possible that I need to add more preload to them, but they just don't feel right to me. I'm continuing to test different front shocks before I make a recommendation.
 
Yes, those Team Associated Yellow springs will be too long. They are for longer shocks on the other 3s models like the Granite, Big Rock, Typhon, Senton. The Vorteks shocks are much shorter.
 
i was going to order the infaction ones for the fronmt, but seen the springs were heavy, can you not just take the 70mm arrma ones you have and cut them down? or does it not work like that?
 
i was going to order the infaction ones for the fronmt, but seen the springs were heavy, can you not just take the 70mm arrma ones you have and cut them down? or does it not work like that?
No, you don't cut springs.:rolleyes: The spring will not seat properly and you will alter the spring rate to your detriment.
Arrma makes many Option upgrade springs of varying spring rates and lengths for most of their 6s line of shocks. Pay attention to the spring rate specs when choosing them. Comparing to what you have already.
And many experiment with Tekno springs which have the same diameter. Springs should not rub tightly at the shock body Preload threads.
Over time with use, springs will arc and rub slightly at the threading. This is ok for the most part. Wear at the threads is not so much an issue in this scenario.
But a spring that is simply too small of a diameter out the gate, and is tight against the shock body threads is NG.(n)
 
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No, you don't cut springs.:rolleyes: The spring will not seat properly and you will alter the spring rate to your detriment.
Arrma makes many Option upgrade springs of varying spring rates and lengths for most of their 6s line of shocks. Pay attention to the spring rate specs when choosing them. Comparing to what you have aready.
And many experiment with Tekno springs which have the same diameter. Springs should not rub tightly at the shock body Preload threads.
Over time with use, springs will arc and rub slightly at the threading. This is ok for the most part. Wear at the threads is not so much an issue in this scenario.
But a spring that is simply too small of a diameter out the gate, and is tight against the shock body threads is NG.(n)
Makes sense now you say. well ill keep an eye on how your getting on, you know much more than me so i don't want to have to second guess and waste money trying lol

good look and keep us all psoted :)
 
No, you don't cut springs.:rolleyes: The spring will not seat properly and you will alter the spring rate to your detriment.
Arrma makes many Option upgrade springs of varying spring rates and lengths for most of their 6s line of shocks. Pay attention to the spring rate specs when choosing them. Comparing to what you have aready.
And many experiment with Tekno springs which have the same diameter. Springs should not rub tightly at the shock body Preload threads.
Over time with use, springs will arc and rub slightly at the threading. This is ok for the most part. Wear at the threads is not so much an issue in this scenario.
But a spring that is simply too small of a diameter out the gate, and is tight against the shock body threads is NG.(n)
Oops. I DID slightly trim the V2 yellows when fitting them to the Infraction shock bodies Im running on my Vorteks front but I really didnt have to cut much off. A few months of bashing later, they seem to be doing well. While they ARE stiffer than the original vorteks springs, theyre not nearly as stiff as the stock Infraction springs. I find them just as good for big sends as I do with the v2 yellows on my Big Rock.
 
I've cut springs when I was a spanking newb back in the 80's, No luck with that. And didn't seat well in the perches.
Also, Spring steel when cut alters spring rate. Hard to keep a pair of springs matched, rate wise when you cut them. I was the new kid at the track, and I was laughed at. Seriously.
If it works for you is what matters in the end..(y);)
Just that cutting springs was not ever a thing in all my years..:cool:
 
I've cut springs when I was a spanking newb back in the 80's, No luck with that. And didn't seat well in the perches.
Also, Spring steel when cut alters spring rate. Hard to keep a pair of springs matched, rate wise when you cut them. I was the new kid at the track, and I was laughed at. Seriously.
If it works for you is what matters in the end..(y);)
Just that cutting springs was not ever a thing in all my years..:cool:
TBH it felt wrong
 
I've had my Vorteks for a couple of weeks, and the only thing I've broken so far are shock shafts (one with the stock plastic shocks and one with the aluminum body shocks), so I'm trying out some 6s shocks from the shock guide. Just wanted to document it in case anyone was curious!

Before the new shocks went on:

View attachment 213247

I went with Mojave for rear shocks and Limitless for front shocks. I'm still waiting on parts for the fronts, so I added the rears first!

Here are all the parts I used for the rears:

View attachment 213246

I used:
The only "maintenance" I did to the new shocks was changed the oil, I used 42.5 Team Associated shock oil. I also swapped in the new springs.

Then I added the bushings to the shock tops:

View attachment 213248

Then I installed one side:

View attachment 213250

Then the other:

View attachment 213251

Looks pretty cool so far, the only thing I noticed is that the new shocks make the car sit a little higher.

After I get the parts for the fronts, I'll post some more pictures!
Did the Mojave shocks work out ok for the rear?
 
Why is everyone obsessed with the Arrma shocks on everything? The shocks from the Losi DB Pro are the same size as the stock ones on the Vorteks and only cost like $20 a set on Jenny's.
 
Why is everyone obsessed with the Arrma shocks on everything? The shocks from the Losi DB Pro are the same size as the stock ones on the Vorteks and only cost like $20 a set on Jenny's.
I’m not obsessed just looking for some metal replacements over the plastic as they are prone to bust and i would sooner have them ready to go.

i wasn’t aware of that, ty i will have a look also.
 
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