Absolutely idiotic, trying to change pinion

Shotgunshrimp

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Arrma.. if I was at a track trying to race traxxas and losi and associated and had to change pinions I'd have to fore fit.. the design may be rock solid and indestructible but for #[email protected] sake at least make a pinion change not take 45 mins... maybe a redisign on your part... so dumb but so smart... makes me mad that I wasted the money on this thing

Wooo and I only thought it would take 45 mins to change a pinion... now Going on an hour and a half and trying to figure out the hole combination for the motor... idiots try a slot!!! Guess it's time to go back to a traxxas and deal with crappy electronics vs bad engineering
 

Afro Samurai

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I have not done a pinion change...but I will definitely look at it this eve...I am interested in hearing more.

Is the main problem the clocking for the motor...and slots in the motor mount would fix the problem? Or is it the amount of things needed to be removed?

I am scanning through the manual now.

page 54 of the manual...looks like you have to remove the center assembly...yeah.which would mean you remove the drive shafts...

refering to captions 9 thru 13...after you have that assembly out...looks like you have clear access to the motor once the smaller motor brace is free from the center diff brackets......so maybe the clocking to get the motor lined back up...looks like wire side pointing up..(more captions at bottom of page 55..simply showing different options and how wire routing would be affected to clear suspension? ..maybe? )....and those indexing holes ..then set the backlash using the clamp bolts on the center diff brackets...

but yeah..fist time out without an electric powered screw driver at your side on the track....this would take some time....

this is all academic for me since I am simply looking at the manual....

I am just wondering if there would be a higher likely hood of the motor slipping free if slots were used...maybe that's why they opted for holes and their intention was for the user to set back lash with the clamp bolts. ..which looks to give easier access for adjustment after assembled...

and if there was a hard landing...the motor may slip downward or away from the spur if not tightened enough to prevent it from swinging in the slots...(which happen quite often on my rc10 with 64 pitch gears..small window for backlash)...

I don't want to bore you...I hope you get it sorted...but I will definitely try this task myself for the sake of getting more familiar with the car..
 
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Shotgunshrimp

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It really is both issues.. I've done clay oval in the 80s offroad in the 90s and got out of it for many years.. came back with a revo 3.3 then a mini revo and a summit.. got tired of burned out electronics or broken drive shafts so I read about this thing and though "hey a revo without issues.. wrong.. just a diffrent set of issues.. first snapping the drive shafts mounting pins. So I changed tires to a low profile bow tie set.. wich threw the gearing way off.. and I read how easy it was to take the Trans out.. yup that's the easy part still time consumeing.. then the gear.. I've had slippage too with the slots motor mounts but it was normally cause I was lazy or didn't take the time to properly tighten it.. I messed with it for about 2 hours last night and just set it aside.. so mad that I put this kind of money up for such a poor system.. yah it's bullet proof but not easy to work with at all..
 

Afro Samurai

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cool...yeah..I did dirt oval also...80s...90s..on road oval stint...modified classes...timing the endbells...old days way before brushless....novak and reedy...revolution..trinity...those were to buzz words...doing all you could to make 3min heat with 1200 nicd batteries...freezing batteries...stacking charges...ha ha....times were great...your experiences sound similar to mine...got out of it for years...now i'm getting back into it...

well...I hope your return experiences get better...but if you feel hard pressed to sell it...be sure to list in the local forum classifieds ...I'm a glutton. ..I may put in my bid...
 

Shotgunshrimp

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I got it all back together and had to adjust transmission as well to get the lash right.. wich brought up another problem.. wrecked three diffrent allen wrenches on the screws trying to get the Trans loose.. never got the second one but the first one was enough to get the lash I needed.. this thing could really be a great vehicle if they just put a little more time in theTrans motor department..I won't get rid of it soon but I just hope that the 17 tooth was the right choice and not a 16.. ugh to go through that again will be a p.i.t.a.
 

Afro Samurai

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yeah really...thanks for the heads up on all these issues...so I will know what to expect and watch out for. ..kind of looking forward to digging into it...but I understand the frustration. ...I'm thinking on getting better quality Allen type wrenches. ..mine are so cheap it's shameful....
 

Shotgunshrimp

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I used the factory one.. rounded that off immediatly.. a craftsmen ball end set.. rounded that off and a dewalt set none could break it free and I didn't feel like heating it since the plastic from the transmission is there.. one day when I really have to I'll dig into that mess.. but as others have stated on the forum here some of the loctite they use is far to much.. waiting for a stainless steel screw set to come out for it before I really dig into it.
 

Shotgunshrimp

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Most of my crew minus the revo 3.3 and the pinion change made a world of diffrent with the low profile tires
 

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OrangeDRAGON

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There are posts on the Facebook group showing a pinion change without having to take so much apart, I'll see if I can find it

From Facebook Group - post by Thomas Pettersson @Thomas P

ARRMA Nero 6s BLX - How to change your pinion. Without remove the motor section.

1st-Dissmount the rollcage ( 2 clips)
2nd-Dissmount 2 screws where the ESC are mounted on ( bracket )
3rd-Dissmount clips for spurgear cover
4th-you have now access to the Screws that holds the entire Centre gearbox "clamps" - unscrew them a bit
5th-Turn truck upside down, dissmount the cover ( 3 screws)
6th-Push the centre gearbox away from Pinion.
7th-just inline with setscrew on Pinion there is a predrilled hole to loosen the pinion setscrew.
8th-take the pinion out.

Note-Max Pinionsize without dissmount the whole motorsection is 23!.

9th-Mount the new bigger pinion, and so the step from 7th to 1 and you are done

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Shotgunshrimp

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Thanks that's great again as I said before the Trans screws one came loose the other ruined two alen wrenches.. almost three.. but I will for sure try that route next time
 

OrangeDRAGON

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Yeah, they have an issue (at least lately) with either over-tightening and/or using too-much/wrong locktite out of the factory.

I lost two screws using precision hex drivers, they were the smaller 2mm bit size trying to get them out, not to mention my debacle with the stripped pinion grub screw. ARRMA support wouldn't send me anything out in advance (even when I volunteered CC info) so I ended up just buying a bunch of screws to have on hand as spares.

I can see the desire to have a pre-assembled RTR to NOT have loose screws, people running out of the box will get quite upset to have parts coming off on the first run or two, but honestly it really hurts the enthusiasts because we essentially have to break parts (screws) to make 'field' changes (like a different pinion). I think it would be smart if they could back off on the torque on these screws from factory and throw a tiny bottle of locktite in the kit with a pre-Run instruction to double check factory screws are secure, everyone wins.
 

Josh nortz

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Im glad i read all this... my nero came with a the servos and brain but i have to install them... i started without looking in to the project much and realized it was going to be a big project. The supplied instructions from arrma are not even close to showing what is involved. Any way i was contemplating a pinion change as well since i have it all apart and seems to be a p.i.t.a to get it apart to swap pinions, i have many i like the stock tires so im not going to get crazy but i think im gonna go to a 16 tooth pinion while its in pieces. I don't think it "needs" to be faster but why not... hopefully it does not get too hot.
 

Shotgunshrimp

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Im glad i read all this... my nero came with a the servos and brain but i have to install them... i started without looking in to the project much and realized it was going to be a big project. The supplied instructions from arrma are not even close to showing what is involved. Any way i was contemplating a pinion change as well since i have it all apart and seems to be a p.i.t.a to get it apart to swap pinions, i have many i like the stock tires so im not going to get crazy but i think im gonna go to a 16 tooth pinion while its in pieces. I don't think it "needs" to be faster but why not... hopefully it does not get too hot.
I think a 16 won't hurt to much at all.. I run mine for 45 mins on the big batteries and it doesn't get that hot.. I changed tire sizes and lost alot of top end so I went to the 17 and it's crazy fast again.. I broke a tie rod end today on one of my multi million tumbles.. lol thankfully I have alot of traxxas parts.. it will work for now but the ends are a wierd size 4mm? Anyways just take your time.. you might need to heat some things to get the screws out but they will come.. just don't use the cheap factory allen set as they strip and strip the screws.. I hopefully won't have to touch important pieces again until I find a stainless kit.. then it's complete teAR down and rebuild... p.s. mine to remove the motor tranny assembly had an issue.. the washers on the steering servo stick out so while it was out I dremmled them flat..good luck but I'd run it first it's great just running it with all diff unlocked
 

Josh nortz

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I think a 16 won't hurt to much at all.. I run mine for 45 mins on the big batteries and it doesn't get that hot.. I changed tire sizes and lost alot of top end so I went to the 17 and it's crazy fast again.. I broke a tie rod end today on one of my multi million tumbles.. lol thankfully I have alot of traxxas parts.. it will work for now but the ends are a wierd size 4mm? Anyways just take your time.. you might need to heat some things to get the screws out but they will come.. just don't use the cheap factory allen set as they strip and strip the screws.. I hopefully won't have to touch important pieces again until I find a stainless kit.. then it's complete teAR down and rebuild... p.s. mine to remove the motor tranny assembly had an issue.. the washers on the steering servo stick out so while it was out I dremmled them flat..good luck but I'd run it first it's great just running it with all diff unlocked
Yeah i ran it box stock, it was awesome but the diff kit came with it, i was at lhs i bought it from getting xmaxx parts he told me he was not supposed to give me the diff upgrade free it was supposed to be discounted so it would be same price as the upgraded version... he is a great guy i offered to pay for them he said no way it was all him. I will not go anywhere else besides tower to get parts ever again. He is awesome dude and always helpful. Told him i got a kraton as well and he asked what he should stock for parts for me... great guy i support local business as much as possibe. I am a small business owner as well so i know the importance of supporting local businesses. I broke a servo wire on one of the tiny servos so i ordered one from tower on sunday when it happened, was supposed to be delivered today but no luck so it is looking like tomorrow before the nero is back together. I have a brand new set of proline badlands but i was gonna put them on the kraton and gear it up 2 teeth. The nero did not give me any problems coming apart and i use dynamite hex wrenches. I also have a small pen torch that i can use if need be but as far as i know its all apart and just waiting on that tiny servo... the instructions arrma supplies are not good but they work after i watched a YouTube video of someone taking it all apart. Im looking forward to getting it done and running again. Thinking about picking up another nero without lockers to let my buddy drive when his erevo eats another diff... lol
 

Shotgunshrimp

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Lol two axles on my summit 4 on my buddies e revo.. they have something in the nero.. just fine tuning lol

Josh really from farmington.. I'm from shortsvile and honeoye falls/ mendon
 

oldgreeniron

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I used the factory one.. rounded that off immediatly.. a craftsmen ball end set.. rounded that off and a dewalt set none could break it free and I didn't feel like heating it since the plastic from the transmission is there.. one day when I really have to I'll dig into that mess.. but as others have stated on the forum here some of the loctite they use is far to much.. waiting for a stainless steel screw set to come out for it before I really dig into it.
Sounds familiar. I had problems trying to remove the grub screws from the wheel hubs. I'm glad I read this before I did a full maintenance teardown. I think I'll also be waiting for a full stainless screw kit and looking for some heavy duty allen wrenches.
Sorta sucks that the fasteners on the Nero are overtorqued/drowned in locktite but I think I'd rather have things difficult to remove rather than flying off and getting lost in the field somewhere.

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On the suspension rod ends, I managed to break one last weekend and I replaced it with a steering link ball end from HPI. HPI part#101174. The arrma pivot ball snaps right in.
I drilled it out starting with a 9/64th bit and finished with a #19 bit then screwed it on the shaft.
To reinforce it I used heavy duty 3/8 adhesive lined shrink tubing in both ends.
I was experimenting so I didn't take pics of process but these are how it turned out. Three runs so far and still holding.
 
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Josh nortz

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Sounds familiar. I had problems trying to remove the grub screws from the wheel hubs. I'm glad I read this before I did a full maintenance teardown. I think I'll also be waiting for a full stainless screw kit and looking for some heavy duty allen wrenches.
Sorta sucks that the fasteners on the Nero are overtorqued/drowned in locktite but I think I'd rather have things difficult to remove rather than flying off and getting lost in the field somewhere.

View attachment 2197 View attachment 2198 View attachment 2199
On the suspension rod ends, I managed to break one last weekend and I replaced it with a steering link ball end from HPI. HPI part#101174. The arrma pivot ball snaps right in.
I drilled it out starting with a 9/64th bit and finished with a #19 bit then screwed it on the shaft.
To reinforce it I used heavy duty 3/8 adhesive lined shrink tubing in both ends.
I was experimenting so I didn't take pics of process but these are how it turned out. Three runs so far and still holding.
Ive done the same type of mod on the nero shock ends, i had to cut a diffrent end for each one i blew off on the same jump... no shrink tubing tho thats good trick.... mine are not good tho the balls are a touch small its just until wendsday its operational but no more big air jumps until new ones are on. Same thing happened to kraton after a couple runs replaced them and jumped it good alot and servo gears stripped.. time to get a nice savox and call it good... probably go back to stock tires and a tooth up on the pinion grab a motor fan and heat sink.... and the tbone racing front bumper on kraton wheelie bar is on order for nero and i will get the front bumper soon... tbone is awesome... looks tough as hell... we will see we will see....
 

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