Kraton Added shims to center diff - Tight to turn now

[cordell12]

So most have seen my blown up diff in the "What did you do to your Kraton today" thread. Well I am shimming my replacement diff this evening. I followed a YouTube video, 1 big shim behind each planetary gear, then on the small gears one side has 1 and the other 2. This is for both the sets of the smaller gears. I added 100k diff oil and put it back together. Turning was very hard with the extra shim on the smaller gears, so I removed those and put it back together again. Turning is still very hard, too hard compared to what it was as stock. Maybe I have too much oil?


edit....I read this thread https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/diff-shims-be-careful.3867/ and it seems they will be pretty tight for a few runs.

 

[cordell12]

 

[joostin420]

It does not appear to be overfilled. I used 200k in center diff and shimmed as you did. It is tight and definitely takes some effort to turn by hand, but does not grind or anything.

 

[cordell12]

It does not appear to be overfilled. I used 200k in center diff and shimmed as you did. It is tight and definitely takes some effort to turn by hand, but does not grind or anything.

I wouldn't say mine is grinding, but you can definitely feel it turn the spider gears. Gonna roll with it for a run or 2 and if need be I will adjust. I've only added a shim to each of the planetary gears.

 

[bennyly]

Have to remember ever diff is different in regards to amount of shims needed, if any. I shim them so they have a slight "notchy" feel if you would and after a few runs they break in just fine. I maintenance my diffs every 8-10 bashes and when I pull them out they feel smooth and the "notchy" feel is gone. They "break-in I am assuming. have two Arrma cars and never had an issue with the diffs using this method. Hope this helps

 

[Mongoose]

Is the housing new too? Since these are new I would think it is the same as what they are putting in the V3 diffs. Tighter tolerances which eliminate the need for internal shims. You may be good without them.

 

[xSUBtRONiKx]

I'm assuming you used the Mugen 0206 washers. If so the spider gears only need one of the Mugen shims as the 1,1,2,2 method is not needed (in most cases).

 

[cordell12]

The diff is a complete unit, pulled from a V3 Kraton. I have it installed, the notchy feel I hope will work itself out. I'll be running it Sunday so I should have a better idea then. The shim kit I got was from a thread here, maybe Durango (threw the package away). I left the planetary shims in as they did have slop, but not the movement is minimal. I did not shim the spider gears any more than what they had come with 1,1.

Does everyone rebuild their diffs after 10 runs or so? I think I need to look into rebuilding my front/rear diffs as well. Being the car sat for so long, I'm sure the oil is toasted.

 

[Iamtheoutcast]

Is the housing new too? Since these are new I would think it is the same as what they are putting in the V3 diffs. Tighter tolerances which eliminate the need for internal shims. You may be good without them.

My kraton v3 diffs were alot tighter then I was expecting but out of my 3 arrma rigs the only 1 I didn' have to shim is my kraton. My outcast and typhon on the other hand were sloppy out of the box. Like bennyly said every diff is different and in some cases you may not even need to shim some of the new versions but it never hurts to check for slop or output endplay.

 

[Pete]

All depends what shim set you got? I used Mugen E0206 and I had the same “notchy” feeling when I turned it. Leave the planertry shims in take the satellite shims out, if you’ve shimmed the whole diff.

 

[cordell12]

Thats what I had to do, remove the extra satellite shim. After 2 batteries the diff felt more smooth, still tight from the fluid and the notchy feel went away. Currently trying to figure out a plan of attack on the front and rear diffs.