Kraton ADU Racing Parts!!!

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Have you tried the Boca bearings? I usually run TRB as well, but most people at the local track seem to run Boca or Acer’s. I just swapped Boca’s in a few months ago when I did the bearing swap on my HW 56113. I can’t speak for longevity yet, but wow are they more expensive 🤣

Here’s a link for the Hobbywing motor bearing sizes if anyone needs - Bearing Sizes

I tried to use some Bocas in my 3s Typhon once, what a waste, I literally could have bought a motor for the price I paid for 2 bearings, they lasted like 4 packs before they were shot. I've had amazing luck with the TRBRC bearings, not in the 3s Typhon though nothing lasts in that piece of crap, I have some motors with TRBRC hybrid ceramics that are about 4-5 years old now.
 
Have you tried the Boca bearings? I usually run TRB as well, but most people at the local track seem to run Boca or Acer’s. I just swapped Boca’s in a few months ago when I did the bearing swap on my HW 56113. I can’t speak for longevity yet, but wow are they more expensive 🤣

Here’s a link for the Hobbywing motor bearing sizes if anyone needs - Bearing Sizes
I do have some Boca's in the collection as well. They have done well. But I use the TRB's more. Thanks for the link sir.
I tried to use some Bocas in my 3s Typhon once, what a waste, I literally could have bought a motor for the price I paid for 2 bearings, they lasted like 4 packs before they were shot. I've had amazing luck with the TRBRC bearings, not in the 3s Typhon though nothing lasts in that piece of crap, I have some motors with TRBRC hybrid ceramics that are about 4-5 years old now.
Awe that sucks man, and good to know haha. They arent who i normally order but im prolly just lucky with mine.
 
I tried to use some Bocas in my 3s Typhon once, what a waste, I literally could have bought a motor for the price I paid for 2 bearings, they lasted like 4 packs before they were shot. I've had amazing luck with the TRBRC bearings, not in the 3s Typhon though nothing lasts in that piece of crap, I have some motors with TRBRC hybrid ceramics that are about 4-5 years old now.
You aren’t lying, I got sticker shock when I ordered. TBH, I feel a little silly having paid this much for some bearings, even though they are ceramic and ABEC 7. People at the track swore by them, so I figured I’d give them a shot. At $25 a bearing, I probably won’t purchase these again unless they last a really long time. https://www.bocabearings.com/products/fr-244c-os-ld-23726

These are lube dry bearings, and they spin very freely. Boca said I should not lube them unless they are running 24/7, or incredibly high RPM’s. For now, I’m just blowing the debris out of it after runs.
 
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I tried to use some Bocas in my 3s Typhon once, what a waste, I literally could have bought a motor for the price I paid for 2 bearings, they lasted like 4 packs before they were shot. I've had amazing luck with the TRBRC bearings, not in the 3s Typhon though nothing lasts in that piece of crap, I have some motors with TRBRC hybrid ceramics that are about 4-5 years old now.
Have you replaced the differentials in your 3S with metal 4S ones? My Vendetta was eating things too, it’s crazy how difficult it is to turn those plastic differentials and input gears. I unhooked the center driveline, and turned one tire. It was easier to spin the other tire through the diff fluid (I had just filled them with fluid during this test) than it was to turn the unloaded input gear. So instead of the input gear budging, the other tire was spinning. Once I swapped in the 4S differentials it’s smooth now, and I stopped eating parts.

Here’s the 4S Diff Boost Box kit from Arrma that fixed my issue, and made my Detta noticeably quicker - Arrma 4S Diff Boost Box
 
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Have you replaced the differentials in your 3S with metal 4S ones? My Vendetta was eating things too, it’s crazy how difficult it is to turn those plastic differentials and input gears. I unhooked the center driveline, and turned one tire. It was easier to spin the other tire through the diff fluid (I had just filled them with fluid during this test) than it was to turn the unloaded input gear. So instead of the input gear budging, the other tire was spinning. Once I swapped in the 4S differentials it’s smooth now, and I stopped eating parts.

Here’s the 4S Diff Boost Box kit from Arrma that fixed my issue, and made my Detta noticeably quicker - Arrma 4S Diff Boost Box
I'm not spending any more time or money on it. I'm over it and have found a better more reliable 1/10 4x4 platform.
 

The Traxxas 4x4 platform. I have less invested in my Slashpede 4x4 than I do my Typhon, I spent way too much money on motor bearings. Sure the platform might have it's issues but you can at least fix them, the Arrma you are stuck with the stupid design flaws or have to resort to homebrew hacks.

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Speaking of lolol.... I bought one way back when they first came out... It's a shelf queen collectors item at this point..

Deans and red motor/esc lol!

I used to race Serpent and Durango though and love them... Personally I love the typhon but it was for bashing not racing. My Serpent would run circles around it.



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The Traxxas 4x4 platform. I have less invested in my Slashpede 4x4 than I do my Typhon, I spent way too much money on motor bearings. Sure the platform might have its issues but you can at least fix them, the Arrma you are stuck with the stupid design flaws or have to resort to homebrew hacks.

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Nice! I started back up RC’s with a Traxxas, so there’s little hate over here for them. The X-Maxx is on my short list, but I really ❤️ my O8S. I threw some X-Maxx shock caps on it, and that’s holding my “Buy It Now” button clicks at bay 🤣. WOW do these things perform now! (Only the X-Maxx shock caps work, the shock bottoms are different dimensions)
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Speaking of lolol.... I bought one way back when they first came out... It's a shelf queen collectors item at this point..

Deans and red motor/esc lol!

I used to race Serpent and Durango though and love them... Personally I love the typhon but it was for bashing not racing. My Serpent would run circles around it.



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I know you’re saying it’s slow, but it is definitely some eye candy. Beautiful rig man. It was a toss up between Serpent or HB Racing. I ended up with HB Racing, but Serpents 1/8 belt drive prototype buggy they won with last year is going to be on my shelf when it releases! I’m almost done building my HB Racing E8 WS, can’t wait!
 
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You’re so right. For a while PPS had a dedicated 30MM mount, now, it too is a combo plate that requires the pinion be flipped.

Do you know of another dedicated 30MM mount that isn’t the Limitless V2?
I seen M2C and Ram Jam RC both just released new motor mounts
 
The PPS mount is expertly designed and manufactured: the micro-adjustment of gear mesh is fantastic. I wish PPS wasn't so backed up with orders: I have his motor mount in my Kraton 6s, and I would like one for my Infraction 6s.

Edit: the wear on the gears was there before I put the PPS mount in.

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The PPS mount is expertly designed and manufactured: the micro-adjustment of gear mesh is fantastic. I wish PPS wasn't so backed up with orders: I have his motor mount in my Kraton 6s, and I would like one for my Infraction 6s.

Edit: the wear on the gears was there before I put the PPS mount in.

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I have 2 PPS mounts sitting on my shelf you can buy. I need to find all the random pieces required to make them whole, though. Overly complicated IMO. I’m also still not happy he never responded to correct the incorrect parts he sent me. They are great for adjusting mesh, but outside of that, I don’t find them very special. I can get a good meshing without it. PPS did use to be the best, but there are more special mounts out there. I really like ScorchedRC’s new off-road motor mount too.
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I’m very excited about this M2C motor mount. I was going to do a 5690 in my Limitless, but I’m doing 2x 4990 instead. I got the M2C off road kit for the motor mount, and I’m putting a 5690 in my Fireteam turned Big Rock. Potentially a 56118 at some point, I’ve got a nib max5 ESC just hanging out. I’m also deciding between Scorches Titanium or CF frames. I’ve got it all mounted on the TI frame right now, but I really love this CF frame. The CF is less than half the weight and still silly strong, but the TI gives some good low CG weight. 🤔. I swapped out my TI towers and most aluminum parts with CF. I’ve yet to break any CF pieces (even crashing my race buggy), they are usually cheaper, and the weight savings is significant.
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I have 2 PPS mounts sitting on my shelf you can buy. I need to find all the random pieces required to make them whole, though. Overly complicated IMO. I’m also still not happy he never responded to correct the incorrect parts he sent me. They are great for adjusting mesh, but outside of that, I don’t find them very special. I can get a good meshing without it. PPS did use to be the best, but there are more special mounts out there. I really like ScorchedRC’s new off-road motor mount too.
View attachment 347904

I’m very excited about this M2C motor mount. I was going to do a 5690 in my Limitless, but I’m doing 2x 4990 instead. I got the M2C off road kit for the motor mount, and I’m putting a 5690 in my Fireteam turned Big Rock. Potentially a 56118 at some point, I’ve got a nib max5 ESC just hanging out. I’m also deciding between Scorches Titanium or CF frames. I’ve got it all mounted on the TI frame right now, but I really love this CF frame. The CF is less than half the weight and still silly strong, but the TI gives some good low CG weight. 🤔. I swapped out my TI towers and most aluminum parts with CF. I’ve yet to break any CF pieces (even crashing my race buggy), they are usually cheaper, and the weight savings is significant.View attachment 347905

Proper gear mesh is my main reason for looking at an aftermarket motor mount, and there are less expensive motor mounts that do that. The Roto-Lok would be fine if I planned on putting a larger diameter motor in my Infraction 6s, but I'm not planning on using a motor of over 42mm in diameter.
 
For the extra $14 I would definitely get the Scorched version.
I have 2 PPS mounts sitting on my shelf you can buy. I need to find all the random pieces required to make them whole, though. Overly complicated IMO. I’m also still not happy he never responded to correct the incorrect parts he sent me. They are great for adjusting mesh, but outside of that, I don’t find them very special. I can get a good meshing without it. PPS did use to be the best, but there are more special mounts out there. I really like ScorchedRC’s new off-road m also deciding between Scorches Titanium or CF frames. I’ve got it all mounted on the TI frame right now, but I really love this CF frame. The CF is less than half the weight and still silly strong, but the TI gives some good low CG weight. 🤔. I swapped out my TI towers and most aluminum parts with CF. I’ve yet to break any CF pieces (even crashing my race buggy), they are usually cheaper, and the weight savings is significant.View attachment 347905
 
For the extra $14 I would definitely get the Scorched version.
Agreed! If I had seen the Scorched model before I ordered the M2C, that probably would have been my choice. For some reason it wasn’t listed under some of the Arrma models, so I didn’t find it until after.

Proper gear mesh is my main reason for looking at an aftermarket motor mount, and there are less expensive motor mounts that do that. The Roto-Lok would be fine if I planned on putting a larger diameter motor in my Infraction 6s, but I'm not planning on using a motor of over 42mm in diameter.
If you’re just after easier gear meshing, I’d argue the Roto-Lok is an easier to adjust design. This one looks interesting. It looks like adjustable gear meshing mixed with an easy to service diff/spool. Arrma Trifecta Mount
 
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Agreed! If I had seen the Scorched model before I ordered the M2C, that probably would have been my choice. For some reason it wasn’t listed under some of the Arrma models, so I didn’t find it until after.


If you’re just after easier gear meshing, I’d argue the Roto-Lok is an easier to adjust design. This one looks interesting. It looks like adjustable gear meshing mixed with an easy to service diff/spool. Arrma Trifecta Mount
There’s nothing easier to adjust than using a screw type of adjustment. It is very fine adjustment, and it has a locking mechanism once it is adjusted. It’s so good PPS can’t keep up with demand.
 
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